Unfettered Feting at Carnevale

Unfettered Feting at Carnevale

What Mardi Gras is to New Orleans and Carnaval to Rio, Carnevale is to Venice. For the 12 days leading up to quaresima (Lent), the city is given over to feasting and celebration, with more than half a million people attending masquerade balls, historical processions, concerts, plays, street performances, fashion shows, and all other manner of revelry.

The first record of Carnevale dates back to 1097, but it was in the 18th century that Venice earned its international reputation as the "city of Carnevale." During that era the partying began after Epiphany (January 6) and transformed the city for over a month into one ongoing, decadent masquerade. After the Republic's fall in 1797, the tradition of Carnevale was abandoned.

Festivities were revived in the 1970s, when locals began taking to the calli and campi for impromptu celebrations as a way to beat the winter doldrums. It wasn't long before events became more elaborate, emulating their 18th-century predecessors (with encouragement from the tourism industry). The trademark feature of present-day Carnevale is the commedia dell'arte mask, worn by would-be Casanovas (and their would-be conquests), often dressed in lavish costumes.

Many of Carnevale's costume balls are open to the public -- but they come with a high price tag, and the most popular of them need to be booked in advance. Balls cost roughly EUR 350-EUR 450 per person, dinner included, and though you can rent a standard costume for EUR 200-EUR 400 (not including shoes or mask), the most elaborate attire can cost much more. Some of the more noteworthy events:

Ballo del Doge (041/5233851. 041/5287543. www.ballodeldoge.com) is held at Palazzo Pisani-Moretta the last Saturday of Carnevale.

Ballo dei Sospiri (041/2411607. 041/52335558. www.venicemasquerade.com) moves to a different palazzo every year, such as Ca' Zenobio or Contarini.

Ballo Tiepolo (041/524668. 041/722285. www.meetingeurope.com) also takes place in the Tiepolo-frescoed ballroom of Pisani-Moretta.

Count Emile Targhetta d'Audiffret (Cannaregio 6293, 30121. 041/5230242) -- a Venice resident who embraces the spirit of Carnevale with utter abandon -- opens his palazzo on the Fondamente Nuove for evenings of masquerade, dancing, and follies; write for information.

You don't have to blow the bank on a masquerade ball in order to take part in Carnevale -- many people go simply for the exuberant street life. Be aware, though, that the crowds are enormous, and ball or no ball, prices for everything absolutely skyrocket.

Carnevale events and schedules change from year to year. If you want to attend, first check out these resources:

A Guest in Venice (www.aguestinvenice.com) gives free advertising to public and private events, and as a result it's one of the most complete Carnevale guides.

Consorzio Comitato per il Carnevale di Venezia (041/717065; 041/2510811 during Carnevale. www.meetingeurope.com) is one of the primary event organizers.

The Tourist Office (041/5298711. www.turismovenezia.it) has detailed information about daily events.