You get around Venice by boat or by foot. These are your boat-going options.
It's hard to believe that Venice could get any more beautiful, but as your gondola glides away from the fondamenta, a magical transformation takes place -- you've left the huddled masses behind to marvel at the city as visitors have for centuries before you. To some it feels like a Disney ride, and some complain about flotsam, jetsam, and less than pleasant odors, but if you insist that your gondolier take you winding through the tiny side canals, you'll get out of the city's main salon and into her intimate chambers, where only private boats can go. San Marco is loaded with gondola stations, but to get off the circuit, and maybe even have a canal to yourself, try the San Tomà or Santa Sofia (near Ca' d'Oro) stations. The price of a 50-minute ride is supposed to be fixed at EUR 73 for up to six passengers, rising to EUR 91 between 8 PM and 8 AM, but these are minimums and you may have difficulty finding a gondolier who will work for that unless the city is empty. Bargaining can help, but in any case come to terms on cost and duration before you start, and make it clear that you want to see more than just the Grand Canal.
Many tourists are unaware of the two-man gondola ferries that cross the Grand Canal at numerous strategic points. At EUR .50, they're the cheapest and shortest gondola ride in Venice, and they can save a lot of walking. Look for traghetto signs and hand your fare to the gondolier when you board.
Note that although there are several traghetti along the Grand Canal, only San Tomà and Santa Sofia operate every day (except on major holidays) from about 7 AM to 7 PM. Don't depend on the others, which might run only mornings or weekdays, or shut down due to rain, fog, strong currents, or even for lack of passengers. Starting from the train station end of the Grand Canal, traghetto links include Ferrovia-S. Simeon Piccolo; Campo San Marcuola-Fondaco dei Turchia; Rialto Pescheria-Campo Santa Sofia (near Ca' d'Oro); Fondamenta del Vin-Riva del Carbon (near Rialto); Campo San Tomà-Calle del Traghetto (near Campiello dei Morti); San Samuele (Palazzo Grassi)-Ca' Rezzonico; Santa Maria del Giglio (Gritti Palace)-Calle Lanza (near Madonna della Salute); Dogana Point (Salute)-Calle Vallaresso.
ACTV water buses serve several routes daily and after 11 PM provide limited service through the night. Some routes cover the length of the Grand Canal, and others circle the city and connect Venice with the lagoon islands. Landing stages are clearly marked with name and line number, but check before boarding to make sure the boat is going in your direction.
Line 1 is the Grand Canal local, calling at every stop and continuing via San Marco to the Lido. The trip takes about 35 minutes from Ferrovia to Vallaresso, San Marco. Circular Line 41 (the odd number indicates it goes counterclockwise) will take you from San Zaccaria to Murano, and Line 42 (clockwise) makes the return trip. Likewise, take Line 42 from San Zaccaria to Giudecca's Redentore, but Line 41 to return. Line 51 (counterclockwise) runs from the station to San Zaccaria via Piazzale Roma, then continues to the Lido. From the Lido, Line 52 circles clockwise, stopping at San Zaccaria, Zattere, Piazzale Roma, the station, Fondamente Nuove (connect to northern lagoon islands), San Pietro di Castello, and back to the Lido. From San Zaccaria, Line 82 (same number both directions) loops past Giudecca and Zattere, then stops at Tronchetto (parking garage) on the way to Piazzale Roma and the station. From the station, Line 82 becomes the Grand Canal express to Rialto, with some boats continuing to Vallaresso (San Marco) and in summer going all the way to the Lido beaches. Line N runs from roughly midnight to 6 AM, stopping at the Lido, Vallaresso, Accademia, Rialto, the train station, Piazzale Roma, Giudecca, and San Zaccaria, then returning in the opposite direction.
An ACTV water bus ticket for all lines except the Grand Canal costs EUR 3.50, or EUR 6 round-trip (valid for 24 hours); a single ride on the Grand Canal line costs EUR 5. (Children under four ride free.) Another option is Travel Cards: EUR 10.50 buys 24 hours and EUR 22 buys 72 hours of unlimited travel on ACTV boats and buses. A shuttle ticket allows you to cross a canal, one stop only, for EUR 1.80
Line information is posted at each landing, and complete timetables for all lines are available for EUR .60 at ACTV/Vela ticket booths, located at most major stops. Buy tickets before getting on the boat and remember to validate them in the yellow time-stamp machines. Tickets are also sold on the boat; you must ask to buy one immediately upon boarding, which can be a hassle. When inspectors come aboard, ticketless riders are fined, as are those who haven't validated their tickets. Ignorance will not spare you; the fine is EUR 40, and getting fined can be embarrassing. The law says you must also buy tickets for dogs, baby strollers left unfolded, and bags over 28 inches long (there's no charge for your bag if you have a Travel Card), but this is generally enforced only for very bulky bags. The telephone number for ferry information listed below has assistance in English.
ACTV (041/2424. www.hellovenezia.it).
A motoscafo isn't cheap; you'll spend about EUR 55 for a short trip in town, EUR 60 to the Lido, and EUR 80 per hour to visit the outer islands. The fare system is convoluted, with luggage handling, waiting time, early or late hours, and even ordering a taxi from your hotel adding expense. Always agree on the price first.
Motoscafi (041/5222303). Water taxis for airport transfers (041/5415084).