The ancient Van Puffelen, on a particularly mellow stretch of canal, offers both a startling array of herbed and spiced jenevers(Dutch gin) in its role as a proeverij (tasting house) and, in addition, a huge restaurant section in which to settle the belly. The menu is of the modern café variety, but it's the frequently changing specials (a three-course dinner costs EUR 19.50, and is served Sunday-Wednesday) that draws so many regulars. Red meat tends to be done rare here. If the main dining room gets too boisterous, you can always escape to the more secluded and intimate mezzanine or, in the summer, the terrace. Reservations are essential for the restaurant. (Also essential is a visit to the "liquor vat" washrooms.)
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