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Tunes Review

Thanks to the exposed brick, industrial lighting, glass-box kitchen, and young, vibrant crowds, you'll swear you're in a mod New York restaurant at this buzzy new rendezvous in the striking Conservatorium Hotel, across from the Stedelijk Museum. But even as the helpful servers explain each Delft-patterned plate of Spanish-inflected Dutch food, your attention will be focused solely on enjoying the sophisticated fusion cooking (the chef spent years in Spain learning the latest in foams, powders, and playful combinations). Particularly excellent are the sweetbreads with peanut sauce and shrimp crackers—a nod to Holland's colonial past in Indonesia—or the zucchini risotto with Dutch cheese and mushrooms. Choose from a three-course set menu for €68, or regular and vegetarian tasting menus, and pair your meal with wines from the smart list.