Walking Tour: Downtown

Walking Tour: Downtown

Stockholm's symbol of power, Stadshuset, is a perfect place to begin your walk. Cross the bridge to Klara Mälarstrand and follow the waterfront to Drottninggatan. Take a left and continue north along this crowded pedestrian street, a purposeful shop-lined artery that cuts right through the center of the city. It is broken only once, by modern Stockholm's heart, Sergels Torg. The Kulturhuset is in the imposing glass building on the southern side of Sergels Torg. Continue along Drottninggatan, stopping at the market-filled Hötorget. The intersection of Kungsgatan and Sveavägen, where the Konserthuset (Concert Hall) stands, is one of the busiest pedestrian crossroads in town.

Head north on Sveavägen for a brief detour to see the spot where Prime Minister Olof Palme was assassinated in 1986. A plaque has been laid on the right-hand side of the street, just before the intersection with Olof Palmes Gata; his grave is in Adolf Fredrik's Kyrkogård, a few blocks farther on. This is the perfect place to cut back to Drottninggatan, heading southwest along Kammakargatan. Drottninggatan changes here; the crowds thin, as do the more touristy shops. Instead, the area's locals go about their business, dropping off dry cleaning, chatting in cafés, and popping into bookshops. Eventually you will reach Odengatan. On your right will be the magnificent Stockholms Stadsbiblioteket. Find your way (from Odengatan to Sveavägen) onto Döbelnsgatan, a peaceful and pleasant residential street and head south. Turn right up Tegnérgatan to find Strindbergsmuseet Blå Tornet, where playwright August Strindberg lived from 1908 to 1912. Return to Hötorget by way of Sveavägen, a riot of sound and activity after the head-clearing peace of Döbelnsgatan.

Next, walk east along Kungsgatan, one of Stockholm's main shopping streets, to Stureplan. On this street is Sturegallerian, an elegant mall. In front of Sturegallerian is Svampen (the mushroom), a little piece of Stockholm's social history. The fungus-shape pay-phone shelter has been a meeting point for years: "I'll see you by Svampen at eight o'clock." Here countless first dates have met, lifelong friendships have formed, and likely more than a few hearts have been broken. Head southeast along Birger Jarlsgatan -- named for the nobleman generally credited with founding Stockholm around 1252 -- where there are still more interesting shops and restaurants. When you reach Nybroplan, take a look at the grand Kungliga Dramatiska Teatern.

Heading west up Hamngatan, stop in at Hallwylska Museet for a tour of the private collection of Countess von Hallwyl's treasures. Continue along Hamngatan to Kungsträdgården, a park since 1562. Outdoor cafés and restaurants are clustered by this leafy spot, a summer venue for public concerts and events. Across from the northwest corner of the park, on the opposite side of Hamngatan, is the NK department store, a paradise for shoppers of all persuasions.

Timing

Allow about 4 1/2 hours for the walk, plus an hour each for guided tours of Stadshuset and Hallwylska Museet (September-June, Sunday only). The Strindbergsmuseet Blå Tornet is closed Monday.