Chef Christer Lindström is the hot ticket behind the stoves of this ancient coaching inn just outside town; he produces rarefied feasts, classically French in technique, using fresh local ingredients. Critics bemoan the formality and the hush of this place, while fans focus on the exceptional food and faultless service. Don't expect anything too contemporary (inside you'll find old-style luster and exposed beams), but do expect near-perfection.
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