Although Bern strikes a diplomatic balance between French-Swiss and German-Swiss politics, its Teutonic nature conquers Gaul when it comes to cuisine. Dining in Bern is usually a down-to-earth affair, with Italian home cooking running a close popular second to the local standard fare: German-style meat and potatoes. The most widespread specialty is the famous Bernerplatte, a meaty version of Alsatian choucroûte–great slabs of salt pork, beef tongue, smoky bacon, pork ribs, and mild, pink pork sausages cooked down in broth and heaped on a broad platter over juniper-scented sauerkraut, green beans, and boiled potatoes. When a waitress eases this wide load onto the table before you, you may glance around to see who's sharing: One serving can seem enough for four. Another meaty classic is the Berner version of Ratsherrtopf, traditionally enjoyed by the town councillors: veal shank cooked in white wine, butter, and sage. More »

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