Wine & Cheese Party

Wine & Cheese Party

Though the French influence in the western portion of this region means a steady diet of cuisine bourgeoise, leading newcomers to think entrecôte with peppercorn sauce is a native dish, the elemental cuisine of Valais is much simpler. In a word: cheese.

The most popular way to enjoy this regional product is raclette, an exclusive invention of this mountain canton (though the French of Haute-Savoie embrace it as their own).

Ideally, the fresh-cut face of a half wheel of Orsières (a mild cheese produced in the high pastures near Martigny) is melted before an open wood fire, the softened cheese scraped onto a plate and eaten with potatoes (always in their skins), pickled onions, and tiny gherkins.

Nowadays, even mountain carnotzets with roaring fires depend on electric raclette heaters that grip the cheese in a vise before toasterlike elements.

Fondue, of course, is omnipresent and is often made with a blend of the local Bagnes and Orsières.

Its consumption is generally held to the cold months, although locals casually request raclette à discrétion (as much as you want) on a cool summer's eve.

The beverage of choice to accompany your raclette is a crisp, bubbly, fruity Fendant (a local white wine), but there are other regional favorites.

Appellations and vintner names aren't as prominent in the Valais; it's the name of the grape that holds the spotlight.

Winemakers welcome tasting guests most times of the year except harvest (late September through early October).

A true Valaisan wouldn't enjoy a fine meal without a ruby red Dôle (pinot noir and gamay blend) swirled in a stemmed ballon (glass) or a sparkling white Fendant poured into a shot-size glass.

On your way through the region follow custom and give a toast: Santé.

Cheese isn't the region's only culinary treasure, however.

Valais rivals Graubünden in its production of viande séchée (air-dried beef), a block of meat marinated in herbs, pressed between planks until it takes on its signature bricklike form, and then dried in the open air.

Shaved into thin, translucent slices, it can be as tender as a good prosciutto crudo -- or as tough as leather. The flavor is concentrated, the flesh virtually fat-free.