Scaling the Heights

Scaling the Heights

You'll feel unsated if you miss Switzerland's most photographed icon, the Matterhorn, so strike out on the most direct route to Zermatt. Allow a half day to get there and back, enjoying spectacular views from the train en route (you can't drive to the town of Zermatt itself). If the weather is clear when you arrive, hustle to the end of the village to see the mountain. Then split your day of exploring between taking a lift or the train to higher elevations and strolling the narrow streets and shops, being sure to stop at one of the local restaurants for raclette.

To experience Valais, it's not necessary to explore every wild valley that ribs out from the Rhône; better to choose one region and spend a few days hiking, driving, or skiing. Enter from Lac Léman and visit the Gianadda museum in Martigny. Spend the night and next day exploring the citadel and Old Town of Sion. Other Alpine resort options -- Saas-Fee, Verbier, and Crans-Montana -- are also magnificently sited. If you prefer wilderness and old-fashioned retreat, shun the famous spots, and make an excursion up the Val d'Hérémence, Val d'Hérens, or Val d'Anniviers.

Whatever locales you choose, staying three or four nights enables you to settle in and fully explore the facilities. From these valleys, you can exit Valais via the Simplon Pass or the Furka Pass. If you opt for the Furka route, take the aerial cable car from Fiesch for stunning views of the Bernese and Valaisan Alps and glaciers that make up the World Heritage site. Whenever time and road conditions permit, opt for the slow switchback crawl over the mountain passes rather than the more efficient tunnels.