At Cape Helles, on the southernmost tip of the peninsula, is a massive, four-pillared memorial to Turkey's war dead. No one knows how many there were; estimates vary from 60,000 to 250,000. When returning on the ferry to Çanakkale, look for the memorials to the campaign carved into the cliffs. The large one at Kilitbahir reads: "Stop, O passerby. This earth you tread unawares is where an age was lost. Bow and listen, for this quiet place is where the heart of a nation throbs."
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