Perfect Days & Nights

Perfect Days & Nights

A Perfect Day at the Beach

A perfect day on a Los Cabos beach may require only three things: wine, bread, and Gatorade -- a bit of the romantic along with the practical. To keep your memories of the day perfect, add sunscreen, sunglasses, and a hat. For a small deposit, many hotels provide beach towels, coolers, and umbrellas, or you can rent these and other convenience items from Trader Dicks (Hwy. 1, Km 29. 624/142-2989), just west of La Jolla de los Cabos Resort near the Costa Azul beach. Dicks also fixes good box lunches. In winter, bring a sweatshirt or sweater to the beach.

To get to the most pristine beaches along the Sea of Cortez, head east out of San José del Cabo by car. At the corner of Boulevard Mijares and Calle Benito Juárez in San José, turn east at the sign marked pueblo la playa. The paved street soon becomes a dirt road that leads to the small fishing villages of La Playa (The Beach) and La Playita (The Little Beach), about 1 1/2 km ( 1/2 mi) from San José. As of this writing, construction of a marina resort complex is underway here, but it was a long way from being completed at this writing; watch for road detours.

From La Playita, drive 60 km (37 mi) up the coast to the ecological reserve Cabo Pulmo, home of Baja Sur's largest coral reef. Water depths range from 15 feet to 130 feet, and it seems Mother Nature created it just for divers, snorkelers, and swimmers. Tropical fish, rays, and other colorful marine life dart along the reef and among the many shipwrecks. If you plan to scuba dive, contact Cabo Pulmo Resort (562/366-0398; 888/997-8566 in U.S. [answered at Cabo Pulmo]. www.cabopulmo.net). When hunger pangs call, stroll up the beach from Cabo Pulmo to Tito's for a fish taco and an ice-cold cerveza (beer). Or drop by Nancy's in the center of town (can't miss it) for gourmet delights; it's open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner.

Try to get back to La Playa by late afternoon to avoid driving the East Cape's dirt road at night. After your hard work worshipping sun and surf, reward yourself with some fresh seafood and a frozen margarita at Buzzard's Bar and Grill right near the beach just north of La Playa. San José is 10 minutes away.

A Perfect Play Day

From the Cabo San Lucas marina, board one of the glass-bottom boats that depart regularly for dramatic El Arco (the Arch) and Playa del Amor (Lover's Beach), the sandy stretch in El Arco's shadow. Or head out in a kayak or tour boat from Playa Médano. The boat ride is half the fun, especially if you cruise by the sea lion colony on the rocks near the arch. The Sea of Cortez and the Pacific Ocean, which merge here, have been compared to the people of San Lucas: cortés (courteous) and pacífico (gentle). Swim and snorkel only on the Sea of Cortez side, though; the Pacific side is too rough.

There's usually a vendor or two selling water and cold drinks on the beach, but nothing more. Bring along lots of drinking water, snacks, sunscreen insect repellent, and a towel. The snorkeling is usually good around the rocks edging the sand. After a few hours on the beach, board the next boat back to the marina or paddle back to shore. This is a good time to settle in for a leisurely lunch on Playa Médano. The outdoor eateries along this sandy stretch are as casual and colorful as their names. Order a cold drink and a big plate of tacos or grilled fish at Billygan's Island, the Office, or Mango Deck.

Once you're reenergized, try parasailing, surfing, or riding a WaveRunner at Playa Médano. Activity centers on the sand rent every imaginable beach toy, along with umbrellas and lounge chairs. Head for your hotel in mid-afternoon and change into long pants for a sunset horseback ride on the beach. Both Red Rose Riding Stables and Cuadra San Francisco have horses for all levels of riders. After the sun sets, dine at one of San Lucas's rock-and-roll hangouts.

A Perfect Day of Sightseeing

For first-timers trying to get a feel for the area, it's a good idea to take an organized sightseeing tour at the beginning of the vacation. If you're ready to set out on your own, start your tour at La Fábrica de Vidrio Soplado (Blown-Glass Factory) -- a bit hard to find if you're driving yourself. First head toward San José on Avenida Cárdenas, which turns into Highway 1. Turn left at the stoplight and signs for the bypass to Todos Santos; then look for signs to the factory. The factory is in an industrial area two blocks northwest of Highway 1. Most taxi drivers know the way and charge about $8 from Cabo San Lucas. At the factory, you can watch artisans, who produce more than 450 pieces a day, use a process that has changed little since it was first developed some 4,000 years ago. The on-site store sells many of these pieces. Admission is free, but you can drop a donation in the bowl near the artisans.

From the factory, head east on Highway 1 for the 20-minute drive to San José del Cabo. In San José, stop for an authentic, inexpensive Mexican lunch at La Cenaduría (Av. Zaragoza and Plaza Mijares). Park at the south end of Boulevard Mijares around the Tropicana restaurant, since traffic tends to get congested in the next few blocks. Take your time wandering through the shops on Mijares, and then settle in at a table in the restaurant's courtyard. Try the mixed-seafood specialty Las Cazuelas, which is cooked in a clay pot.

After lunch, stroll across the street to the plaza in front of the Iglesia San José (mission church) and join the locals in this tree-shaded square. Everything in San José moves at a slow pace, so don't feel guilty if all you feel like doing is wandering in and out of shops and art galleries.

Return to your hotel for dinner or try Mi Cocina (624/142-5100; reservations essential), an outdoor restaurant at the Casa Natalia hotel (at the north end of Boulevard Mijares). European dishes with a Mexican flair are served amid dramatic lighting, cascading waterfalls, and flaming braziers.