The only hotel on Carate's beach, this barefoot inn -- shoes come off at the bottom step -- is set on a precipitous hillside (steep stairs are plentiful here, including a 500-step "Stairway to Heaven" up to a forest lookout). Three luxurious rooms in the lodge have huge ceramic bathrooms. Two screened-in wooden cabins are perfect for those craving privacy. Tentlike "tiki" cabinas sit on 10-foot platforms. Dozens of scarlet macaws frequent the garden. The place is full of quirky artistic touches, but the quirkiest is owner Terry Conroy, an energetic host who makes sure everyone joins in on activities. His serene Tica wife, Katya, balances her husband and makes a mean margarita. Inventive meals with lots of fresh fish and Asian flavors are served on two breezy terraces with spectacular views of the coastline. There's also a spring-fed plunge pool with a hammock rancho, a bird-watching trail through primary forest, and a corral with five horses for beach and trail rides.
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