Here's a case study in what happens when cruise ships come to town. This old downtown standby, once charmingly as off kilter as the crooked umbrellas on its front tables, got rid of its video poker machines (and the locals who always hoped to get lucky playing them), tiled the floors and remodeled. The food is still good – seafood and surprisingly decent hamburgers, a real rarity in Costa Rica, are the fare here – but a bit of the local color has faded.
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