A night in this restored colonial mansion is a journey back in time. All the rooms have soaring ceilings and gorgeous tile floors and are set around two large courtyards and several smaller gardens. A tile fountain trickles in the dining room, which is on a garden terrace; to the side a woman prepares tortillas on a piping-hot grill. Indulge in a serving on Antigua flan, a dessert layered with figs and sweet potatoes. Light sleepers, beware: the lively marimba band can sometimes play long into the night. The lodging is part of a two-hotel chain, with another branch in Panajachel. Pros: historic setting, lively evening entertainment. Con: some noise from garden.
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