Pujol

Pujol Review

The subtly lit interior is like a fine suit: understated and elegant, with starched napery; navy walls; and a few silver accessories. Service is hushed and artful. Indeed, the setting and the staff completely recede during the meal so you can focus the food. Internationally acclaimed chef Enrique Olvera continuously re-invents traditional Mexican dishes and their presentation—you might not recognize something as a flauta, a taco, or a tamale, but, nonetheless, that's what it is. Authentic ingredients and seasonings are carefully chosen, and prix-fixe menus are thoughtfully sequenced to create a holistic flavor experience—skip one dish and you'd feel as if something were missing. Some dishes are themselves deconstructed, requiring your server to quietly explain in which order you should eat each component. And the tableware complements the food: a simple white plate to show off coloration, a beaker-like vessel to display a layered creation, a lidded gourd with traditional carvings to hold an equally traditional soup. Despite the tailored setting and haute cuisine, Pujol is a dressy-casual place; reservations aren't required, but really are a good idea.