Like many historical sites whose importance is taken for granted, this institution started small. It dates from 1907, when the city issued permits allowing farmers to sell produce from wagons parked at Pike Place. Later the city built permanent stalls. At one time the market was a madhouse of vendors hawking their produce and haggling with customers over prices. Some fishmongers still carry on this kind of frenzied banter, but chances are you won't get them to waver on their prices. Urban renewal almost killed the market, but a group of residents, led by the late architect Victor Steinbrueck, rallied and voted it a historical asset in 1973. Many buildings have been restored, and the complex is connected to the waterfront by stairs and elevators. Booths sell seafood -- which can be packed in dry ice for your flight home -- produce, cheese, wine, spices, tea, coffee, and crafts. There are also several restaurants. The flower market is a must-see.

Free maps, available at several locations throughout the market, distinguish among the various types of shops and stalls. Farmers, who come to the market from as far away as the Yakima Valley, east of the Cascade Mountains, have first dibs on the tables, known as "farmers' tables," where they display and sell their own vegetables, fruits, or flowers. Vendors in the so-called high stalls often have fruits and vegetables or crafts that they've purchased locally to sell here. The superb quality of the high-stall produce helps to set Seattle's dining standards.

The shopkeepers who rent stores in the market sell such things as packaged food items, art, curios, pets, and more. Most of the shops are nothing special, catering to the massive number of tourists that make their way through here in high season, but there are a few gems here and there. Because the market is along a bluff, the main arcade stretches down the cliff face for several stories; many shops are below street level. Other shops and restaurants are in buildings east of Pike Place and west of Western Avenue. The information booth is at 1st and Pike.

Tours of the market are given daily and cost $8. Note that you must make reservations for tours at least a day in advance.

Everyone visits the market, which means it is often infuriatingly crowded, especially when cruise ships are in port. During high season, you might never find a quiet corner, but getting to the market early (around 8 AM) is probably your best bet.

There are numerous garages in the area, including one affiliated with the market itself (the Public Market Parking Garage at 1531 Western Avenue), at which you can get validated parking from many merchants; some restaurants offer free parking at this garage after 5 PM. You'll also find several pay lots farther south on Western Avenue.