Vancouver's New Chinatown

Vancouver's New Chinatown

With one of the largest Asian populations of any city outside of Asia, the Vancouver metropolitan area has a wealth of opportunities for Asian-food lovers. There are still many Chinese restaurants, markets, and bakeries in Vancouver's city-center Chinatown -- the "old" Chinatown -- but Richmond, the suburban "new" Chinatown out near the airport is where interesting things are really happening, food-wise. Here's how to take a side trip to Asia -- for dinner -- while you're in Vancouver.

Richmond Chinatown is full of shiny new shopping malls and upscale Chinese restaurants that rival the best of Hong Kong or Taipei. Although the exterior is modest, the Sea Harbour Seafood Restaurant (3711 No. 3 Rd., Richmond. 604/232-0816) serves first-rate Hong Kong-style seafood to well-heeled locals. Ask for whatever fish is freshest, and try the distinctive pork with chayote squash and preserved vegetables. Less lavish but still excellent, the Shanghai River Restaurant (7831 Westminster Hwy., Richmond. 604/233-8885) specializes in Shanghai-style fare, like handmade dumplings and noodles (you can watch the chefs at work in the open kitchen). Book in advance for these popular spots.

Vancouverites also line up for brunch at Richmond's dim sum palaces, including Shiang Garden Seafood Restaurant (4540 No. 3 Rd., Richmond. 604/273-8858) , Fisherman's Terrace (4151 Hazelbridge Way, Aberdeen Centre, Richmond. 604/303-9739) , and the Shanghai-style Xian Heng (6340 No 3 Rd., Brighouse Square, Richmond. 604/278-0709). Richmond dim sum restaurants typically eschew the custom of carts circling the room, laden with dumplings and other small plates. Instead, after you order from a (bilingual) menu, dishes are brought hot from the kitchen directly to your table.

Richmond is more than just high-end dining rooms. In the glitzy Aberdeen Centre Mall, Northern Delicacy (4151 Hazelbridge Way, Richmond. 604/233-7050) is more fun than flash, cooking up Northern-style small plates for young Asian hipsters. For fiery Szechuan fare, try Golden Szechuan Restaurant (3631 No. 3 Rd., Richmond. 604/288-9058). More basic, but equally delicious, are the food stalls on the second floor of the Richmond Public Market (8260 Westminster Hwy., Richmond. 604/821-1888), rewarding adventurous diners with authentic Asian street foods.

Richmond Night Market (12631 Vulcan Way, Richmond. 604/244-8448). Held Friday, Saturday, and Sunday from mid-May to early October, it's a feast of squid on a stick, sweet soupy tofu, fried noodles, fruity bubble tea, and more. The market opens at 7 PM and is lively until at least 11 PM. In addition to the food stalls, vendors hawk socks, electronics, T-shirts, and all sorts of goodies. Some nights there's live entertainment, too.

A new rapid-transit line will connect Richmond with downtown Vancouver; it's expected to open in 2009. In the meantime, Translink buses travel the route in 30 to 45 minutes; taxis generally make the journey in under a half hour, traffic permitting.