Unalaska/Dutch Harbor

Unalaska/Dutch Harbor Review

Unalaska/Dutch Harbor, twin towns midway out the chain, are by far the most populous destinations in the Aleutian Islands. Although they're sometimes called "the Crossroads of the Aleutians," even by Alaska standards people who live here are living remote. Usually referred to simply as "Dutch" (or, by people who spend winter here, "the gulag"), the towns are connected by a bridge that spans a narrow channel between Unalaska and Amaknak islands. (Locals playfully call the span the "Bridge to the Other Side.") Despite the often-harsh weather—this region is known as the "Cradle of Storms" for good reason—the Aleut people and their ancestors have occupied these islands and others in the Aleutians for thousands of years. Today Dutch is the region's tourism center, as well as one of the busiest fishing ports in the world. Scattered around both islands are reminders of history: the Japanese bombed Dutch Harbor during World War II (unexploded ordnance may still be out there, so don't handle any odd metal objects you see while hiking), and you can still explore concrete bunkers, gun batteries, and a partially sunken ship left over from the war.

It's worth the trip out to Dutch on the ferry just for the scenery along the way, but when travelers finally reach the islands they discover a surprisingly gentle landscape of tawny, rolling hills sheltering a town that is built for work, not beauty. Which is not to say the town lacks pretty things. The most dramatic attraction in Dutch is the Holy Ascension Russian Orthodox Church, a perfect blue, onion-dome chapel right on the edge of the water, the best Russian church left in Alaska. The extant buildings date to the 1890s, although there has been a church on the site since 1808. Inside is a collection of Russian icons and artworks that is not to be missed, certainly the most impressive in the Americas. These are not museum pieces; they have been used, regularly, and it shows.

Next to the church is the Bishop's House, which is undergoing continuing restoration. A walk in the graveyard between the two buildings shows the full history of the area: Aleuts, sailors, and, always oriented to face the church, the graves of the Orthodox parishioners.

Easy walking distance from the ferry terminal is the Aleutian World War II National Historic Area Visitor Center, on the edge of the airport. The Aleutians saw heavy fighting through much of the war—some of the outer islands were occupied by Japanese forces for years—and the museum does a nice job of presenting the history of the conflict. At the peak of the war, more than 60,000 servicemen were stationed out here.

The Aleut take on the islands is offered at the Museum of the Aleutians, behind the grocery store, about a 15-minute walk from the ferry. Small, but quite remarkable, displays include original drawings from Captain Cook's third voyage, a traditional gut parka, and more. A don't-miss stop.

Don't worry about opening hours: if the ferry is in, the town's attractions will be open.

For facilities, the towns have hotels and restaurants that rival those on Alaska's mainland, plus guided adventure tours, many geared toward birders.

Unalaska-Dutch Harbor Convention and Visitors Bureau. If you need help planning your stay, contact the Unalaska-Dutch Harbor Convention and Visitors Bureau for a little extra guidance. Box 545, Unalaska, AK, 99685. 907/581-2612 or 877/581-2612. www.unalaska.info.