Bordered by 7th, 10th, Clay, and Washington streets in the shadow of the convention center and towering downtown hotels, Old Oakland was once a booming business district. Today the restored Victorian storefronts lining these four blocks house restaurants, cafés, shops, and galleries, and a lively three-block farmers' market takes place Friday morning. Architectural consistency distinguishes the area from surrounding streets and lends it a distinct neighborhood feel. Tuscany-inspired Caffè 817 (817 Washington St. 510/271-7965) serves excellent panini and bowls of café latte in an artsy atmosphere. Ratto's International Market (827 Washington St. 510/832-6503), the Italian grocer that's been dishing up meat, cheese, imported sweets, and liquor to the neighborhood since 1897, has fresh deli sandwiches. Pacific Coast Brewing Company (906 Washington St. 510/836-2739) is a homey place for some pub grub and a microbrew. The block-long Swan's Marketplace houses shops and the Housewives Market (907 Washington St.), an old-fashioned market with stalls for meat, seafood, and even a sausage maker.