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Downhill Skiing & Snowboarding

Telluride

Telluride is really two ski areas in one. For many years, Telluride had a reputation as being an experts-only ski area. Indeed, the north-facing trails are impressively steep and long, and by spring the moguls are massive. The terrain accessed by Chairlift 9, including the famed Spiral Staircase and the Plunge, is for experts only (although one side of the Plunge is groomed so advanced skiers can have their turn).

But then there is the other side -- literally -- of the ski area, the gently sloping valley called Goronno Basin, with long runs excellent for intermediates and beginners. On the ridge that wraps around the ski area's core is the aptly named See Forever, a long cruiser that starts at 12,255 feet and seems to go on and on. Below that are numerous intermediate runs and a phenomenal terrain park called Sprite Air Garden, designed for snowboarders. Near Goronno Basin is another section that includes super-steep, double-diamond tree runs on one side and glorious cruisers on the other.

Slide through a Western-style gate and you come to Prospect Bowl, a 733-acre expansion that includes three chairlifts and a network of runs subtly cut around islands of trees. One cluster of intermediate runs is served by a swift high-speed quad. The terrain runs the gamut from almost-flat, beginner terrain to double-diamond fall-away chutes, cliff bands, and open glades. 565 Mountain Village Blvd., 81435. 970/728-6900 or 800/778-8581. www.tellurideskiresort.com. Late Nov.-early Apr., daily 9-4.

Facilities

970/728-7425

Lessons & Programs

The Telluride Ski & Snowboard School (565 Mountain Village Blvd. 800/801-4832. www.tellurideskiresort.com) offers half-day group clinics beginning at $55. Lessons for first-timers are available for alpine and telemark skiers, as well as snowboarders. A five-hour clinic with rentals and restricted lift tickets costs $115. Children's programs for ages 3 to12 are $120 a day for lifts, lessons, and lunch. Telluride was a pioneer in creating Women's Week programs, five days of skills-building classes with female instructors. Sessions are scheduled for February and March.

Lift Tickets

The one-day walk-up rate is $85. On multiday, advance-purchase tickets the daily rate can drop as low as $59.

Rentals

Equipment rentals are available at Paragon Ski and Sport (236 S. Oak St. 970/728-4581. www.paragontelluride.com). Beginner packages (skis, boots, and poles) are $22 a day, and top-of-the-line packages are $42 a day. Paragon also rents telemark and cross-country gear, as well as snowshoes and snowblades.

Ski rentals are available from the ubiquitous Telluride Sports (150 W. Colorado Ave. 970/728-4477 or 800/828-7547. www.telluridesports.com). Complete packages (skis, boots, and poles) start at around $28. There are 10 other locations in the area.

Purgatory

Purgatory at Durango Mountain Resort (formerly known simply as Purgatory) has plenty of intermediate runs and glade and tree skiing. What's unique about Purgatory is its stepped terrain: lots of humps and dips and steep pitches followed by virtual flats. This trail profile makes it easier for skiers and snowboarders to stay in control (or simply get their legs back under them after they've conquered a section a little steeper than they might be accustomed to). A great powder day on the mountain's backside will convince anyone that Purgatory isn't just "Pleasant Ridge," as it's somewhat condescendingly known in Crested Butte and Telluride.

U.S. 550. 970/247-9000 or 800/568-3275. www.durangomountainresort.com. Late Nov.-early Apr., daily 9-4.

Facilities

2,029-foot vertical drop; 1,200 skiable acres; 23% beginner, 51% intermediate, 26% advanced; 1 high-speed 6-passenger chair, 1 high-speed quad chair, 4 triple chairs, 3 double chairs, 1 surface lift, and 1 moving carpet (beginners' lift).

Lessons & Programs

Durango Mountain Resort's Adult Adventure School (970/385-2149) offers 2 1/2-hour group lessons for everyone from newcomers to experts at 9:45 AM and 1:15 PM each day during the season. The cost is $49. There are also daily lessons in snow biking and twice-monthly lessons in telemark skiing.

Teaching children to ski or snowboard is a cinch at Kids Mountain Adventure (970/385-2149). There are three age-appropriate classes for kids 3 to 12 years old. There's also child care for those between two months and three years. A full day costs $87.

Lift Tickets

The at-the-window rates are $60 to $65 for a one-day lift ticket. A Guaranteed to Green ski package, which means that they promise you will be able to ski from top to bottom on a green run by the end of it, is a good deal for beginner skiers, as it combines a half-day morning lesson with an all-day lift ticket. The cost is $165.

Rentals

Bubba's Boards (Village Plaza. 970/259-7377 or 866/860-7377) is Durango Mountain Resort's full-service snowboard shop. Rentals begin at $29 per day.

Performance Peak (970/247-9000) rents top-of-the-line demo and retail skis and boots from K2, Salomon, Dynastar, Volkl, Nordica, Dolomite, and Rossignol; full packages (skis, boots, and poles) begin at $39. Snowshoe rentals are $12. The shop also offers custom boot fitting, ski tuning, and equipment repair.

Purgatory Rentals (Village Center. 970/385-2182) offers skis, boots, and poles, as well as other equipment. Rates begin at $21 per day for the basic package, rising to $29 for the high-performance package.

Crested Butte

Crested Butte skiing has a split personality, which is plain to see when you check out the skiers who come here year after year. Its traditional side is the trail network, characterized by long lower-intermediate and intermediate runs. There's a wonderful expanse of easy terrain from the Keystone lift -- not just a trail network but rolling, tree-dotted meadows with plenty of opportunities to poke around off the beaten track. Families flock to Crested Butte for the excellent slope-side child care and children's ski school facilities, as well as the resort's laid-back and friendly ambience.

The wilder side of Crested Butte's personality is the Extreme Limits, several hundred acres of steep bowls, gnarly chutes, and tight tree skiing. It's no surprise that Crested Butte has hosted the U.S. Extreme Freeskiing Championship and the U.S. Extreme Borderfest, both nationally televised events full of thrills and spills. That's not to say you have to be a hotshot to enjoy some of Crested Butte's more-challenging terrain. You do, however, need to be able to handle snow that hasn't been groomed.

The best skiing on the main trail network is on the front side of the mountain. The Silver Queen high-speed quad shoots you up 2,000 vertical feet in one quick ride. From there you have a choice of lifts and runs, roughly segmented by degree of challenge, with the steep twisters off to the right, the easier cruisers concentrated on the left, and the gnarly steeps above. The Paradise Chair Lift brings you directly to Crested Butte's half-pipe, and the best intermediate terrain.

The Extreme Limits is backcountry-style skiing and riding that's not for the faint of heart. If you're lucky enough to have good snow, skiing in this steep and rocky region will be the thrilling highlight of your visit. Strong, confident skiers and riders ready to tackle this terrain should sign up for a group tour. 12 Snowmass Rd., Mount Crested Butte, 81225. 970/349-2222 or 800/544-8448. www.skicb.com. Open mid-Nov. or mid-Dec.-mid-Apr., daily 9-4.

Facilities

2,775-foot vertical drop; 1,167 skiable acres; 23% beginner, 51% intermediate, and 20% advanced; 4 detachable high-speed quad chairs, 2 fixed-grip quad chairs, 2 triple chairs, 3 double chairs, 3 surface lifts, and 2 magic carpets (beginners' lifts).

Lessons & Programs

The Beginner's Shortcut offers a choice of a half-day group lesson and lift ticket that costs $107 or a full-day group lesson and lift ticket that costs $127. The full-day lesson practically guarantees you'll be skiing or snowboarding green runs by the end of the day. For kids ages 3 through 16, Kid's World all-day lessons are $120 and half-day lessons are $110. Teen workshops are $140 for the day. Intermediate, advanced, and private lessons are also available. For more information, contact CB Mountain School (970/349-2252; 800/444-9236; 800/600-7349 Kid's World. www.skicb.com).

Lift Tickets

The walk-up rates for lift tickets range from $79 for one day to $504 for a week; prices are less in early and late season. Discounts are available online at www.skicb.com. There are also some days when everybody skis free, check the Web site for these dates.

Rentals

Full rental packages (including skis, boots, and poles), as well as telemark, snowshoe, and snowboard equipment, are available through Crested Butte Sports (35 Emmons Loop Rd. 970/349-7516 or 800/301-9169. www.crestedbuttesports.com). Rates start at $16 per day. They also have a full repair shop.

Pagosa Springs

With more than 450 average inches of snow annually, Wolf Creek Ski Area is Colorado's best-kept white-powder secret. It's set in 1,600 acres of Forest Service land in the San Juan Wilderness. The trails are designed to accommodate any level of ability and traverse every kind of ski terrain in ever-changing conditions, from wide-open bowls to steep glades, with a commanding view of remote valleys and towering peaks.

Because there are no overnight accommodations and it's a family-owned business, Wolf Creek has a reputation as a laid-back place for those with an aversion to lift lines and the faster-paced, better-known ski areas.

Arguably the best area stretches back to Horseshoe Bowl from the Waterfall area, serviced by the Alberta Lift. The more intrepid will want to climb the Knife Ridge Staircase to the more-demanding Knife Ridge Chutes. Just below is the groomed Sympatico, which runs down a gentler ridge and through dense forest below the Alberta Lift. The 50 trails run the gamut from wide-open bowls to steep glades.

Lodging options from rustic log cabins, bed-and-breakfasts, and motels in all price ranges are nearby along or off Highway 160: Creede, South Fork, and Monte Vista on the east and Pagosa Springs on the west. U.S. 160 at top of Wolf Creek Pass. 970/264-5629. www.wolfcreekski.com. Early Nov.-mid-Apr., daily 8:30-4.

Facilities

1,604-foot vertical drop; 1,600 skiable acres; 20% beginner, 35% intermediate, 25% advanced, 20% expert; 1 quad, 2 triples, 2 doubles, 2 surface lifts.

Lessons & Programs

Wolf Creek Ski School holds group lessons -- $55 for four hours and $40 for two-hour sessions. First-day beginner packages (ages nine and up) are $47 ($57 snowboard). Private, one-hour lessons are $65 ($95 for two). Children over four can join the Wolf Pups program, which includes lift tickets and lunch. It's $45 for a half day, $55 for a full day.

Lift Tickets

The walk-up rate is $48 for adults, $36 for half day, with three-day lift passes for $141.

Rentals

Wolf Creek Ski Rental, in the Sports Center Building across from the ticket office, rents skis and boards. Adult sets (skis, boots, poles) are $14-$31 and $18 for telemark. Boards are $26 with or without boots; boot rentals are $10.