You can go traditional with mussels and the crispiest of french fries or dabble in what the chef calls Euro-fusion at this sleek café done up with dark wood, exposed brick, and creamy chairs and linens. Classic dishes such as waterzooi, the Belgian chicken stew, and a leg of rabbit made with beer, are expertly turned out, along with newer takes such as seared scallops with young carrots, red beets, and orange sauce. Belgium is a beer-drinking country, and the three-page beer list is well conceived. Crowds at lunch and dinner sometimes mean a short wait even with a reservation.
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