Traditional Japanese cookery is combined with often inspired improvisations ("freestyle Japanese cuisine," in the words of chef-owner Kaz Okochi) at this serene location. For a first-rate experience, sit at the sushi bar and ask for whatever is freshest and best. The chef's years of experience preparing fugu -- the potentially poisonous blowfish, available only in winter -- means you're in good hands, though the experience is pricey at $150 per person. It's not all sushi here; innovations include sake-poached scallops with lemon-cilantro dressing.
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