This big, lacquer-free room feels as open and busy as a railway station, and the extensive menu is filled with tofu combinations, poultry, beef, pork, and tender seafood. You'll find unfamiliar items on the menu, too -- early spring leaves of snow pea pods, for example, which are sublimely tender and flavorful. An exuberant dim sum lunch -- brunch on the weekends -- allows you to choose an assortment of small dishes from wheeled carts. In the open kitchen, 10 chefs prepare everything as if for dignitaries.
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