Wood, brass, and sumptuous carpeting surround diners in this 1920 gas station-turned-restaurant. Specialties on the regularly changing menu could include superb crab cakes with rémoulade, a wonderfully spicy shrimp dish inspired by Mozambique, crispy roast duckling with orange-cognac sauce or port-wine cherry sauce, pepper steak, and crème brûlée for dessert. An extensive international wine list includes vintages ranging from an Australian cabernet-shiraz blend to a South African merlot and, of course, numerous selections from France and California. Opera season -- typically February and March -- is the only time Sunday dinner is served.
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