Snugged up tight in a row of seven battleships off Ford Island, the USS Arizona took a direct hit that December morning, exploded, and rests still on the shallow bottom where she settled. A visit to the Memorial begins prosaically -- a line, a ticket that assigns you to a group and tour time, a wait filled with shopping, visiting the museum, and strolling the grounds. When your number is called, you watch a 23-minute documentary film then board the ferry to the memorial. The swooping, stark-white memorial, which straddles the wreck of the USS Arizona, was designed by Honolulu architect Alfred Preis to represent both the depths of the low-spirited, early days of the war, and the uplift of victory. After the carnival-like courtyard, a somber, contemplative mood descends upon visitors during the ferry ride; this is a place where 1,777 people died. Gaze at the names of the dead carved into the wall of white marble. Scatter flowers (but no leis -- the string is bad for the fish). Salute the flag. Remember Pearl Harbor.
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