Kauai is the oldest and northernmost of the main Hawaiian Islands. Five million years of wind and rain have worked their magic, sculpting fluted sea cliffs and whittling away at the cinder cones and caldera that prove its volcanic origin. Foremost among these is Waialeale, one of the wettest spots on Earth. Its 480-inch annual rainfall feeds the mighty Wailua River, the only navigable waterway in Hawaii. The vast Alakai Swamp soaks up rain like a sponge, releasing it slowly into the watershed that gives Kauai its emerald sheen.
Kauai offers some of the best birding in the state, due in part to the absence of the mongoose. Many nene (the endangered Hawaiian state bird) reared in captivity have been successfully released here, along with an endangered forest bird called the puaiohi. The island is also home to a large colony of migratory nesting seabirds, and has two refuges protecting endangered Hawaiian water birds. Kauai's most noticeable fowl, however, is the wild chicken. A cross between jungle fowl (moa) brought by the Polynesians, and domestic chickens and fighting cocks that escaped during the last two hurricanes, they are everywhere, and the roosters crow when they feel like it, not just at dawn. Consider yourself warned.
Kauai's residents have had a reputation for independence since ancient times. Called "the separate kingdom," Kauai alone resisted King Kameahameha's charge to unite the Hawaiian Islands. In fact, it was only by kidnapping Kauai's king, Kaumualii, and forcing him to marry Kamehmeha's widow that the Garden Isle was joined to the rest of Hawaii. That spirit lives on today as Kauai residents resist the lure of tourism dollars captivating the rest of the islands. Local building rules maintain that no structure may be taller than a coconut tree, and Kauai's capital city Lihue is still more small town than city.
Although all of the islands have a few stories about the menehune -- magical little people who accomplished great big feats -- Kauai is believed to be their home base. The Menehune Fishpond, above Nawilwili Harbor, is a prime example of their work. The story goes that the large pond (initially 25 mi in diameter) was built in one night by thousands of menehune passing stones from hand to hand. A spy disrupted their work in the middle of the night, leaving two gaps that are still visible today (drive to the pond on Hulemalu Road, or kayak up Huleia Stream).
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