Surfing

Maui's diverse coastline has surf for every level of waterman or woman. Waves on leeward-facing shores (West and South Maui) tend to break in gentle sets all summer long. Surf instructors in Kihei and Lahaina can rent you boards, give you onshore instruction, and then lead you out through the channel, where it's safe to enter the surf. They'll shout encouragement while you paddle like mad for the thrill of standing on water -- some will even give you a helpful shove. These areas are great for beginners, the only danger is whacking a stranger with your board or stubbing your toe against the reef.

The North Shore is another story. Winter waves pound the windward coast, attracting water champions from every corner of the world. Adrenaline addicts are towed in by Jet Ski to a legendary, deep-sea break called Jaws. Waves here periodically tower upward of 40 feet, dwarfing the helicopters seeking to capture unbelievable photos. The only spot for viewing this phenomenon (which happens just a few times a year) is on private property. So, if you hear the surfers next to you crowing about Jaws "going off," cozy up and get them to take you with them.

Whatever your skill, there's a board, a break, and even a surf guru to accommodate you. A two-hour lesson is a good intro to surf culture. Surf camps are becoming increasingly popular, especially with women. One- or two-week camps offer a terrific way to build muscle and self-esteem simultaneously. Maui Surfer Girls (www.mauisurfergirls.com) immerses adventurous young ladies in wave-riding wisdom during overnight, one- and two-week camps. Coed camps are sponsored by Action Sports Maui (www.actionsportsmaui.com).

How Big Is Big?

Before heading out for any water activity, be sure to get a weather and wave report, and make sure the surf report you get is the full face value of the wave. "Hawaiian style" cuts the wave size in half. For instance, a Hawaiian might say a wave is 5 feet high, which means 10 feet if you're from New Jersey or Florida. For years, scientists and surfers were using different measurements, as Hawaii locals measured waves from median sea level to the crest. These days, most surf reports are careful to distinguish between the two -- but it can still get confusing.

Best Spots

Beginners can hang 10 at Kihei's Cove Park (S. Kihei Rd., Kihei), a sometimes crowded but reliable 1- to 2-foot break. Boards can easily be rented across the street, or in neighboring Kalama Park parking lot. The only bummer is having to balance the 9-plus-foot board on your head while crossing busy South Kihei Road. But hey, that wouldn't stop world-famous longboarder Eddie Aikau, now would it?

Long- or shortboarders can paddle out anywhere along Lahaina's coastline. One option is at Launiupoko State Wayside (Honoapiilani Hwy. near mile marker 18). The east end of the park has an easy break, good for beginners. Even better is Ukumehame (Honoapiilani Hwy. near mile marker 12), also called "Thousand Peaks." You'll soon see how the spot got its name -- the waves here break again and again in wide and consistent rows, giving lots of room for beginning and intermediate surfers.

Other good surf spots in West Maui include "Grandma's" at Papalaua Park, just after the pali (cliff) -- where waves are so easy a grandma could ride 'em; Puamana Beach Park for a mellow longboard day; and Lahaina Harbor, which offers an excellent inside wave for beginners (called "Breakwall"), as well as the more advanced outside (a great left if there's a big south swell).

For advanced wave riders, Hookipa Beach Park (2 mi past Paia on Hana Hwy.) boasts several well-loved breaks, including "Pavilions," "Lanes," "the Point," and "Middles." Surfers have priority until 11 AM, when windsurfers move in on the action. Competition is stiff here, and the attitudes can be "agro." If you don't know what you're doing, consider watching from the shore.

You can get the wave report each day by checking page 2 of the Maui News, logging onto the Glenn James weather site at www.hawaiiweathertoday.com, or calling 808/871-5054 (for the weather forecast) or 808/877-3611 (for the surf report).

On the Sidelines

Even if you aren't a surfer, watching is just as fun (well, almost). Hookipa Beach Park (2 mi past Paia on Hana Hwy.) gives you the perfect grassy overlook to see all the action -- pro surf, windsurf, and kiters abound. Near-perfect waves can be seen at Honolua Bay, on the northern tip of West Maui. To get there, continue 2 mi north of D. T. Fleming Park on Route 30 and take a left onto the dirt road next to a pineapple field; a path leads down the cliff to the beach. In December, the Billabong Pro invites female wave riders to compete at Honolua Bay.

Surf Shops, Equipment Rental & Lessons

Big Kahuna. Rent surfboards (soft-top longboards) here for $15 for two hours, or $20 for the day. The shop also offers surf lessons, and rents kayaks and snorkel gear. Located across from Cove Park. Island Surf Bldg., 1993 S. Kihei Rd. #2, Kihei. 808/875-6395. www.bigkahunaadventures.com.

Goofy Foot. Surfing "goofy foot" means putting your right foot forward. They might be goofy, but we like the right-footed gurus here. Their safari shop is just plain cool and only steps away from "Breakwall," a great beginner's spot in Lahaina. Two-hour classes with five or fewer students are $55, and six-hour classes with lunch and an ocean-safety course are $250. They promise you'll be standing within a two-hour lesson -- or it's free. 505 Front St., Lahaina. 808/244-9283. www.goofyfootsurfschool.com.

Hana Highway Surf. If you're heading out to the North Shore surf, you can pick up boards ranging from beginner's soft-tops to high-performance shortboards here for $20 per day. 120 Hana Hwy., Paia. 808/579-8999.

Hi Tech Maui. Locals hold Hi Tech in the highest regard. They have some of the best boards, advice, and attitudes around. Rent surfboards for $20 per day (or soft boards for $14); $112 for the week. They rent even their best models -- choose from longboards, shortboards, and hybrids. All rentals come with board bags, roof racks, and oh yeah, wax. 425 Koloa St., Kahului. 808/877-2111. www.htmaui.com.

Nancy Emerson School of Surfing. Nancy's motto is "If my dog can surf, so can you." Instructors here will get even the most shaky novice riding with their "Learn to Surf in One Lesson" program. A two-hour group lesson (six students max) is $75. A private lesson with Nancy herself -- a pro surf champion and occasional Hollywood stunt double -- costs $215 for one hour or $325 for two; lessons with her equally qualified instructors are $100 for one hour and $165 for two. They provide the boards and rash guards. 505 Front St., Ste. 224B, Lahaina. 808/244-7873. www.mauisurfclinics.com.

Second Wind. Surfboard rentals at this centrally located shop are a deal -- good boards go for $20 per day or $110 per week. They also rent and sell their own Elua Makani boards (which means second wind in Hawaiian). Although they don't offer lessons themselves, they will book you with the best surfing, windsurfing, and kiteboarding lessons on the island. 111 Hana Hwy., Kahului. 808/877-7467 or 800/936-7787. www.secondwindmaui.com.