On the first floor is a wonderful (and seldom crowded) Cantonese restaurant specializing in seafood. The livelier second floor is a large, airy dining room with the most extensive dim sum selection in Chinatown. Dim sum denotes both the meal (a veritable Chinese brunch, served daily 8:30-3:30) and the variety of dumplings and buns, tiny spareribs, morsels of pork, chicken, clams, shrimp, and other foods that you select from roving carts and pay for by the item. Pointing is fine. The selection is wider when the restaurant is more crowded with weekend shoppers, mostly suburban Chinese-Americans.
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