Owner-chef-author Chris Schlesinger built his national reputation on grilled foods and red-hot condiments. The Jamaican jerk, North Carolina pulled pork, and habañero-laced "pasta from Hell" are still here, but this restaurant has made an extraordinary play to establish itself in the front ranks of fish restaurants. Spices and condiments are more restrained, and Schlesinger has compiled a wine list bold and flavorful enough to match the highly spiced food. The dining space is completely informal. A killer brunch (complete with a do-it-yourself Bloody Mary bar) is served on Sunday.
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