The lively atmosphere here may make you feel as though you're attending a giant Portuguese wedding. Entire families come, and on a Friday or Saturday night (when the café has guitarists and singers), it's not unusual to see little girls in frilly dresses and boys in jackets and ties. Specialties include kale soup thickened with potatoes, mariscada a chefe (seafood casserole with fine spices), and shrimp Ana María (panfried shrimp in seafood stock). The bargain-price wines on the list include some of the best Dão reds available outside Portugal.
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