Cape Cod: Places to Explore
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Provincetown
The Cape's smallest town in area and its second smallest in year-round population, Provincetown is a place of liberating creativity, startling originality, and substantial diversity. Like so much of Cape Cod, it's also a town that's become progressively—and rather dramatically—more upscale and sophisticated in recent years. A number of the casual—if cheesy—T-shirt and souvenir shops that once lined the town's main drag, Commercial Street, have given way to first-rate art galleries and upscale boutiques. Many of the town's funky B&Bs and inns, which once felt more like glorified boardinghouses than proper accommodations, have been sold as private homes or transformed into fabulous, upscale hideaways with cushy amenities.
With the change has come at least a mild concern that Provincetown may become too upscale and cosmopolitan for its own good—but so far there's little evidence that this lovably eccentric, individualistic place will ever become any less free-spirited. A strong sense of community spirit and civic pride remains. In the busy downtown, Portuguese-American fishermen mix with painters, poets, writers, whale-watching families, cruise-ship passengers on brief stopovers, and gay and lesbian residents and visitors. In summer Commercial Street is packed with sightseers and shoppers hunting for treasures in the overwhelming number of galleries and crafts shops. At night raucous music and people spill out of bars, drag shows, and sing-along lounges galore. It's a fun, crazy place, with the extra dimension of the fishing fleet unloading their catch at MacMillan Wharf, in the center of the action.
The town's 8 square mi are also rich in history. The fist at the very tip of the Cape, Provincetown has shores that curve protectively around a natural harbor, perfect for sailors from any epoch to anchor. Historical records suggest that Thorvald, brother of Viking Leif Erikson, came ashore here in AD 1004 to repair the keel of his boat and consequently named the area Kjalarness, or Cape of the Keel. Bartholomew Gosnold came to Provincetown in 1602 and named the area Cape Cod after the abundant codfish he found in the local waters.
Provincetown at a Glance
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