For affordable seafood, this futuristic incarnation of a '50s coffee shop does the trick. The space is groovy and inviting, with blue mosaic columns soaring above the dining space, and a long counter facing the kitchen, where you can sit on a blond-wood bar stool and slurp clams and oysters on the half shell or a dinner-size bowl of gumbo. A particular specialty is the traditional crab roast, prepared in an old-timey steam kettle with tomato, herbs, butter, and brandy.
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