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Jerry Traunfeld's bright, airy restaurant on the northern end of Broadway is a feast for the senses, with funky design details, friendly staff, and a happening bar area. Start with one of the many interesting cocktails and an order of eggplant fries with sea salt and honey; then peruse the menu, which offers standard and vegetarian thali of various sizes—the idea is inspired by the Indian thali meal, in which a selection of different dishes is served in small compartments on a large platter but here the food is mainly seasonal New American cuisine. Dinner might include items like braised Wagyu beef cheek with ginger, rhubarb pickles, onion-poppy naan, and roasted halibut with saffron leeks. The concept may be gimmicky but somehow each small-portioned delight seems better than the last.
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