La Mar

La Mar Review

Chef Gastón Acurio's reinvention of the traditional cebichería is not only one of Lima's most popular lunch spots, it is also the model for a franchise now found in six cities, including San Francisco. The decor is minimalist, with plenty of rock, bamboo, and palms along one wall, but the menu is kaleidoscopic. Start by sharing a desgustación de cebiche (various types of fish or seafood marinated in lime juice), or a bandeja de causas (various mashed-potato appetizers with seafood and mayonnaise fillings), then try the saltado Pacífico (sautéed seafood served over squash ravioli), anticuchos de pulpo (grilled octopus in an herb sauce atop squashed potatoes), or the catch of the day. The servings tend to be large. The place doesn't take reservations, so arrive before 1 or you'll wait an hour for a table.