Getting Oriented

Most of Lima's colonial-era churches and mansions are in El Centro, along the streets surrounding the Plaza de Armas. From there, a speedy expressway called Paseo de la República (aka Via Espress) or a traffic-clogged thoroughfare called Avenida Arequipa take you south to San Isidro and Miraflores, two fairly upscale neighborhoods where you'll find the bulk of the city's dining and lodging options. East of Miraflores is Barranco, where colonial architecture is complemented by a bohemian ambience.