Chronicles from the Caucasus
Nov 17th, 2009, 09:08 AM
#41
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 253
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
thursdaysd, welcome home.
What a great blog. I've been following along for a few weeks, wish I'd found this thread earlier. Looking forward to reading more about your trip.
I am planning a trip to Jordan and I will be travelling solo, I read on another thread that you joined a tour in Jordan, which company did you use?
What a great blog. I've been following along for a few weeks, wish I'd found this thread earlier. Looking forward to reading more about your trip.
I am planning a trip to Jordan and I will be travelling solo, I read on another thread that you joined a tour in Jordan, which company did you use?
Nov 17th, 2009, 11:58 AM
#42
Original Poster
Hi germanblonde, thanks! - I used Explore, but I can't recommend them. Afraid it will take a while till the blog gets to Jordan! Do pick a tour that gives you plenty of time in Petra - I had three nights/two full days.
Nov 17th, 2009, 03:10 PM
#44
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 253
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thank you, thursdaysd. I will keep looking at tour options. I look forward to reading more on your blog. First you need to get back your daily routine and relax from being on the go for such a long time.
Dec 1st, 2009, 01:13 PM
#45
Original Poster
I've just finished organizing the photos from Georgia - at kwilhelm.smugmug.com/Travel/Caucasus-and-Middle-East-2009 - and finished my Georgia posts at mytimetotravel.wordpress.com. Here's the last post, a quick summary:
It's clear that economically, this country's not doing so well, and it didn't take a "Polish Aid" sign at a construction site to tell me that. While the main roads are in good shape, secondary roads and sidewalks are definitely not. Then there are the taxi drivers in the countryside, coasting whenever they can to save gas, and an electricity supply often too weak to charge my Nokia n800. Transport (by marshrutka) and food (khachapuri - cheese pie - and khinkali - meat dumplings) can be unbelievably cheap. But the people, friendly and energetic, struck me as entrepreneuerial survivors, so I hope that things will improve.
It's also a very old, proud, country, with a history going back to the dawn of agriculture and including a prosperous period as Colchis (think Jason's Golden Fleece). Just the second nation to embrace Christianity, in the early fourth century, its Christian heritage has survived occupation by the Muslim Ottomans as well as the atheistic Soviets, although the church buildings suffered badly under the Soviets. The religious revival includes a massive new cathedral in Tbilisi, and renovation at many churches in the countryside.
I visited in the second half of September, and (as a look at my photos will attest) suffered a shortage of sunshine. This could be a good destination in July and August, when much of Europe is overrun with tourists. I saw only one small, European, tour group (at Vardzia), and encountered a scattering of European backpackers and rather more Israelis (there's a direct flight from Tel Aviv to Tbilisi), so this is a good place for people looking to get off the main tourist trail. No Western chains in evidence either, aside from a few hotels.
This is a great budget destination, with a network of homestays and the afore-mentioned cheap food and transport. I loved the scenery, and I didn't even get up into the higher mountains. Having discovered that access to Svaneti (in the northwest), and Tusheti (in the northeast) is easier than Lonely Planet suggests, I'd really like to come back and spend time in the north.
Options for high-end travelers are limited. There are a couple of Mariotts and a Radisson in Tbilisi, and Sheraton is building in Tbilisi and Batumi, but otherwise the best option outside Tbilisi is the Dzveli Batumi chain. Mid-range people can do a bit better, but if you're headed for the mountains, there's not much besides homestays.
I used Lonely Planet, and aside from a map error in Kutaisi, found it worked well. I read the Bradt guide before I left, but unless you plan to drive yourself to every church in the country, you're better off with Lonely Planet. I took a quick look at an Odyssey guide while I was in Tbilisi, and thought it would be worth checking out for sightseeing information.
Bottom line? Georgia is on my "would revisit" list, for the mountains, but not my "must revisit" list.
It's clear that economically, this country's not doing so well, and it didn't take a "Polish Aid" sign at a construction site to tell me that. While the main roads are in good shape, secondary roads and sidewalks are definitely not. Then there are the taxi drivers in the countryside, coasting whenever they can to save gas, and an electricity supply often too weak to charge my Nokia n800. Transport (by marshrutka) and food (khachapuri - cheese pie - and khinkali - meat dumplings) can be unbelievably cheap. But the people, friendly and energetic, struck me as entrepreneuerial survivors, so I hope that things will improve.
It's also a very old, proud, country, with a history going back to the dawn of agriculture and including a prosperous period as Colchis (think Jason's Golden Fleece). Just the second nation to embrace Christianity, in the early fourth century, its Christian heritage has survived occupation by the Muslim Ottomans as well as the atheistic Soviets, although the church buildings suffered badly under the Soviets. The religious revival includes a massive new cathedral in Tbilisi, and renovation at many churches in the countryside.
I visited in the second half of September, and (as a look at my photos will attest) suffered a shortage of sunshine. This could be a good destination in July and August, when much of Europe is overrun with tourists. I saw only one small, European, tour group (at Vardzia), and encountered a scattering of European backpackers and rather more Israelis (there's a direct flight from Tel Aviv to Tbilisi), so this is a good place for people looking to get off the main tourist trail. No Western chains in evidence either, aside from a few hotels.
This is a great budget destination, with a network of homestays and the afore-mentioned cheap food and transport. I loved the scenery, and I didn't even get up into the higher mountains. Having discovered that access to Svaneti (in the northwest), and Tusheti (in the northeast) is easier than Lonely Planet suggests, I'd really like to come back and spend time in the north.
Options for high-end travelers are limited. There are a couple of Mariotts and a Radisson in Tbilisi, and Sheraton is building in Tbilisi and Batumi, but otherwise the best option outside Tbilisi is the Dzveli Batumi chain. Mid-range people can do a bit better, but if you're headed for the mountains, there's not much besides homestays.
I used Lonely Planet, and aside from a map error in Kutaisi, found it worked well. I read the Bradt guide before I left, but unless you plan to drive yourself to every church in the country, you're better off with Lonely Planet. I took a quick look at an Odyssey guide while I was in Tbilisi, and thought it would be worth checking out for sightseeing information.
Bottom line? Georgia is on my "would revisit" list, for the mountains, but not my "must revisit" list.
Dec 11th, 2009, 09:08 AM
#46
Original Poster
Interesting piece on Abkhazia here - news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/europe/8407446.stm - notice that the election posters are in the Russian, not Georgian, alphabet. Before it became a "breakaway republic" this used to be the best part of Georgia's Black Sea coast.
Dec 13th, 2009, 06:19 AM
#47
Original Poster
I've now finished up Armenia - photos have joined Georgia at kwilhelm.smugmug.com/Travel/Caucasus-and-Middle-East-2009 - and blog entries are at mytimetotravel.wordpress.com.
While I'm glad I visited Armenia, if I go back to the area it will be to Georgia. Armenia had good scenery in the north, but I think Georgia's is even better. And though I really admired the elaborate khachkars (carved crosses) in Armenia, in general I preferred the church architecture in Georgia.
There is the same network of homestays and marshrutkas in Armenia as in Georgia for budget travelers, but high end travelers will have more choice in Armenia - many people stay in Yerevan, which is well-provided with hotels, restaurants and cafes, and take day trips. Outside Yerevan the Tufenkian chain (www.tufenkianheritage.com) would be worth investigating.
I did enjoy my stay in the north, rather than being driven back and forth, but I came overland from Tbilisi rather than flying into Yerevan. I would also suggest over-nighting for exploring the western part of the country. I took a two-night tour through the west to Nagorno-Karabakh, the site of a war of independence in the early '90s. While still claimed by Azerbaijan, it can only be visited from Armenia. I found the visit interesting, but it isn't a must-see.
I flew to Aleppo from Yerevan, so I'm off to the Africa - Middle East board for the rest of the trip.
While I'm glad I visited Armenia, if I go back to the area it will be to Georgia. Armenia had good scenery in the north, but I think Georgia's is even better. And though I really admired the elaborate khachkars (carved crosses) in Armenia, in general I preferred the church architecture in Georgia.
There is the same network of homestays and marshrutkas in Armenia as in Georgia for budget travelers, but high end travelers will have more choice in Armenia - many people stay in Yerevan, which is well-provided with hotels, restaurants and cafes, and take day trips. Outside Yerevan the Tufenkian chain (www.tufenkianheritage.com) would be worth investigating.
I did enjoy my stay in the north, rather than being driven back and forth, but I came overland from Tbilisi rather than flying into Yerevan. I would also suggest over-nighting for exploring the western part of the country. I took a two-night tour through the west to Nagorno-Karabakh, the site of a war of independence in the early '90s. While still claimed by Azerbaijan, it can only be visited from Armenia. I found the visit interesting, but it isn't a must-see.
I flew to Aleppo from Yerevan, so I'm off to the Africa - Middle East board for the rest of the trip.
Dec 14th, 2009, 10:07 AM
#50
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 492
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
A speechwriter for QEII said that whenever one of them would prepare a speech for Her, she would always make some small change. He had written for Her "I am very happy to be in Kingston," and she crossed out "Very" and said "I shall be happy to be in Kingston, but not very happy to be in Kingston." That is amusingly close to your "must revisit" etc. category. Very funny. I just did more than 5 weeks thru China, India, Thailand, & Dubai on my own, and constantly thought of the Queen's view as it was so exact.
Dec 14th, 2009, 04:32 PM
#53
Original Poster
Hi Kathie - have to get through Syria and Lebanon first, but Petra was unquestionably the highlight of the trip. I got to spend two full days there and am very glad I saw more than the Treasury, although of course it is spectacular. But I thought Amman was skippable - especially after Damascus.
Jan 31st, 2010, 12:34 PM
#54
Original Poster
Just a quick note to say that my Middle East TR is now complete at http://www.fodors.com/community/afri...iddle-east.cfm
Also, all the photos for this trip are up at http://kwilhelm.smugmug.com/Travel/C...ddle-East-2009
Also, all the photos for this trip are up at http://kwilhelm.smugmug.com/Travel/C...ddle-East-2009
Mar 1st, 2010, 02:46 PM
#55
Original Poster
Another quick note: you can now hear me talk about the Georgia part of my trip on this Amateur Traveler podcast:
http://bit.ly/cO5KJK
I was a bit nervous about this, but I don't sound as bad as I thought I might!
http://bit.ly/cO5KJK
I was a bit nervous about this, but I don't sound as bad as I thought I might!
