rhkkmk

when we were there all the roads were horrible.

LancasterLad

There's only one proper road, and that's a straight one right up the spine. But it's boring, and if it's slash and burn season the distant views are severely obscured by a blue/grey smog.

Kathie

The weather should be lovely at Inle in November. It will be cool in the mornings and evenings, hot during the day. This is a place where you need layers. You'll want to be out on the lake as soon as the sun is up, and you'll need layers to keep warm, but over the next few hours it will get very hot and with very direct sun. You'll want sunscreen, and you'll probably use the umbrellas in the boat to keep the sun off of you.

Kalaw is really not off the tourist track. It's a mandatory stop for backpackers, so if you think you are really getting off the tourist trail, I fear you will be disappointed.

As far as BoB is concerned, we never made it. We had odd weather the first time we were in Bagan and they cancelled on us twice. SM did book it for us, and we got a much better price than we could get elsewhere. The second time we were in Bagan, we decided not to try for it again.

I'd stick with the Strand. Nothing wrong with the Traders - just nothing all that great about it. I understand they have done minimal upgrades and just re-christened it a Shangri-La.

When I know more about our schedule I'll email you.

Smeagol

ARGHHHH
Because I have procrastinated Tharabar gate now full!, but I really like the look of Bagan Lodge ( which is new) anyone seen ita. I have asked them to look into that one as I didn't like the look of the other one they suggested or anyone have any good alternatives?
Also they are telling me Inle Princess is booked out but when I pressed them they said it's the room type SO they have offered me Mountain view or Princess lake view rooms ( not sure how it differed to original room offered) anyway IP website is rubbish so anyone with any knowledge of these rooms?
I'd like to get back to them for when they open for business tomorrow so any help would be appreciated,
Kathie - I hear you ref the Strand, I'll keep that booking.... Also didn't think Kalaw was off the tourist trail, just thought it looked quite interesting and maybe a light trek would be good.

Kathie

We stayed in a riverfront suite at the Thiripyitsaya on our last trip. There are a total of four suites, all right on the river. We loved the suite, loved having tea out on our patio fronting the river. The food at the hotel was awful - it was hard to find anything at the breakfast buffet I was willing to eat. It's been a few years, so maybe the food has improved.

Smeagol

What was the location like Kathie? ( sorry to hear about the food? ) I have to say when I went to Burma 4 years ago generally I found the food so so but am sure it's vastly Improved.

Kathie

The Thiripyitsaya is inside the archaeological zone, so still in Old Bagan. IMO, the location isn't quite as good as The Tharbar Gate, but it's better than any of the places in New Bagan.

You are the eternal optimist to think the food has vastly improved! I can only say I hope you are right. ;-)

Smeagol

Ok mildly improved......

Kathie

Well, you will get good food at the Rupar Mandalar in Mandalay and at the Inle Princess and at Le Planteur in Yangon.

LancasterLad

Kalaw is a mandatory stop for backpackers! Where did you get that gem from Kathie?

LancasterLad

Anyone who visits Kalaw has to make an effort to get there. It's off the over-trodden beaten tourist track in so far it isn't invaded by coach loads of tour groups every day.

We visited twice, and hardly saw another westerners. The only ones being those who'd either tracked up from Inle, or those about to take the easier option and trek down.

sartoric

I was in Yangon for a week, so the circle train was worthwhile for me, but with limited time....maybe not.

In Mandalay I stayed at the Hotel by the Red Canal in August 2013. Lovely staff, an Indian restaurant, and we liked the rooms at the front, which had a balcony overlooking a stream with fish. The rooms at the back have an outdoor rain shower facing a rock wall.

The local area was walkable and interesting to me.
A memorable moment was seeing a monk swimming serenely, straight down the centre of the Red Canal.

filmwill

I have to say: Burmese food was some of my favorite. Surprisingly, considering how much bad stuff I had read here from posters regarding it. But I was so wonderfully surprised when there.

While I never really got the whole mohinga thing, almost all of the salads we had (tea leaf salad, tomato salad, ginger salad, etc.) were so tasty. Wonderful mix of texture and tang. And don't even get me started on the garlic noodles ...they are a thing of legend!

I'm such a huge fan of Burmese food, I stop at Burma Superstar anytime I pass through San Francisco. Truly some of the best Asian food available in SF.

I never really understood why folks dislike it so much.

Smeagol

FW, I think maybe for us the food was generally mediocre because we were not there that long, so we didn't try that many places. The food at Aureum in Bagan was mainly western ( bland) fare from what I remember. We did have a fab lunch at a The Moon in Bagan and I seem to remember The Strand was nice. Anyway I'll look forward to seeing how the food is.
So an update, I ended up having to book Inle Princess' and Hotel@Tharabar Gate on Agoda! As SM couldn't get me the rooms ( they advised me to book them there as they said hotels sometimes save some rooms for internet bookings) I knew Burma was popular but didn't think I would have so many things in available.... But then it was like this in SL last year, I had everything booked in Feb to secure the hotels.
II think Inle Princess was a deal breaker for me, if we couldn't get a decent Inle hotel then we may have completely changed our plans....I have booked a "private pond view chalet" ? As it looked like they had nice decks to lounge on?
All other hotels, Balloons over Bagan and flights have been booked by SM. ( I just need to send the first deposit to SM)
Wow though prices have certainly gone up.
I decided to keep with my initial itinerary ( incl Kalaw) so now trying to decide on what we actually want to see and do.....

laurenanne

Hi Smeagol,
I'd love to know your final itinerary. I posted a similar thread a few days ago, to which you responded you were having trouble booking hotels. Have you decided on a final itinerary, lodging, and circuit?
Would you mind sharing?
Thanks!

cwn

Sméagol,

I have internet again...."private pond view chalet" ? Yes they do have a deck looking out over a nice little pond. Looked very similar to the lake view decks. We really liked that property and enjoyed the food. I had spring rolls (veg) which I love and DH had a fish dish which he though was very good. Actually we were pleased with what we ate...but we do not go for really spicy so that may be part of it.