Karen and Blip go to India with Intrepid
Dec 30th, 2010, 07:30 PM
#61
Yes, we were lucky wrt weather. It was mostly in the 70s during the day and we had no rain at all. Several days were hazy/cloudy/white sky but overall it was pretty nice and with comfortable temperatures - a bit cool at night in Delhi. I think early December is good time to go.
Poor Blip!
Poor Blip!
Dec 31st, 2010, 03:27 PM
#62
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Hi karen. I'm glad you had a great time. You seemed to make the most out of it and I must say some of those pics seem to be the king one sees in mags as award winners, the kind that seem to capture an essence, heart or soul. Very nice indeed. Its licky that our flight to Delhi didn't get fogged out as many do during this time period. Nice to see you back and thanks for the pics and the TR. Larry
Jan 2nd, 2011, 03:59 PM
#63
Hi, Larry! Yes, we had a great time. Thanks for your comments on my photos (and also for your response about our upcoming cruise over on the cruise board!)
Orchha
We left Agra fairly early in the morning, although our train was delayed about an hour by fog/smog - not in Agra but in Delhi, where the train originated. I understand delays can be comment, but it only happened to us this one time. After a 3.5 hour train ride, we disembarked and boarded two taxis for the remainder of the trip to Orchha.
On the way, we stopped at an Intrepid-supported NGO- a paper-making facility that provides employment for women. Unfortunately, the women were on strike when we were there and had been for several days. The manager seemed taken aback at our arrival, but we got to see the grounds, work rooms, and of course the gift shop.
We also stopped at a school in a very small, rural town. The kids were adorable, but it was sad to see how poor they were. There were no desks; students sat on the concrete floor with paper notebooks on their laps. We passed out pencils, took some pictures, and shared some smiles. I'd visited a school in Cambodia - this seemed even poorer, I think because of the lack of desks.
The only other stop was at a pharmacy to get medicine for one of the women who had a chest infection. While standing outside waiting, we were soon surrounded by a group of boys - teenagers - who were either on lunch break from school or had just finished school. They were enthralled with us Westerners, and spoke just a little English. It was a fun interaction.
At Orchha, we checked into another heritage property, a former royal hunting lodge. It was really cool. Alas, still no hair dryer. (I'd taken a very small one but it was slow to get the job done. It was better than nothing, but not much. Only one hotel on our entire trip had a hair dryer - and we're not there yet.)
We toured the palace. Only Sydney and I wanted to go; the others decided to relax at the hotel. I'm so glad I went. We practically had the place to ourselves. There are some paintings on the inside that, although not nearly as old, made me think of the Valley of the Kings in Egypt.
Afterwards, Tej picked us up on a motorbike to take us to a cooking demonstration with the others. Yes, really - a motorbike. All three of us rode on it. I'd seen locals put multiple people on a motorbike, and had also seen it in Thailand. But I'd never experienced it. Sydney and I were both game and off we went! It wasn't far, but it was certainly fun.
The in-home cooking demonstration was delightful. Good food plus a fascinating opportunity to see someone's home. The family had two small children and the husband's sister also lived with them. The home was very clean and had bright pink walls. The two kids were adorable. We had masala chai (of course!), a chicken dish, some eggplant, and bread. It was all delicious. There were a couple of other things, but I don't remember. As we were leaving, some young men at a stand next door asked us to take their picture, and of course, I accommodated them.
We walked back to the hotel - about 15-20 minutes in the dark (this was a very small town!) - and went straight to bed. Next morning we were leaving about 9, and I decided I'd have time to make it into town on my own, so off I went on foot. It was a fascinating experience. I saw two little boys being schooled by their mom outside on a little patio. There was a man taking his cows out (or in?) for the day. Three young men in colorful green outfits asked me to take their picture. Some little girls on the roof of their house posed for me when I held up my camera and pointed at them. I saw a man pumping water at an outdoor water pump. Cows were wandering the street.
I realized I wasn't going to have time to walk back and started fretting about what to do. I saw a young man in his 30s standing next to his motorbike and (this is going to sound really stupid!) I asked him if he'd take me back to the hotel. I pointed at myself and then at the back of his motorbike and said "hotel"? pointing in the direction of our hotel. Well, his eyes got great big and he kind of leaned back. So I apologized and kept going. Once I made it into town, it occurred to me I might be able to find a tuk-tuk. Sure enough, there was a tuk-tuk stand and for 60 rupees, I was soon speeding back to the hotel. I didn't mention it until that evening. "Tej," I said, "there's something I didn't tell you about when I walked to town this morning..." and I told him about asking the guy for a ride home. Tej (and everyone) laughed and laughed - and of course made many jokes about the American woman who tried to get the local guy to go to her hotel... (duh)
Anyway, it was all good (no worries, Indian curries, as Tej says) and we headed for Khajuraho.
More to come.
Orchha
We left Agra fairly early in the morning, although our train was delayed about an hour by fog/smog - not in Agra but in Delhi, where the train originated. I understand delays can be comment, but it only happened to us this one time. After a 3.5 hour train ride, we disembarked and boarded two taxis for the remainder of the trip to Orchha.
On the way, we stopped at an Intrepid-supported NGO- a paper-making facility that provides employment for women. Unfortunately, the women were on strike when we were there and had been for several days. The manager seemed taken aback at our arrival, but we got to see the grounds, work rooms, and of course the gift shop.
We also stopped at a school in a very small, rural town. The kids were adorable, but it was sad to see how poor they were. There were no desks; students sat on the concrete floor with paper notebooks on their laps. We passed out pencils, took some pictures, and shared some smiles. I'd visited a school in Cambodia - this seemed even poorer, I think because of the lack of desks.
The only other stop was at a pharmacy to get medicine for one of the women who had a chest infection. While standing outside waiting, we were soon surrounded by a group of boys - teenagers - who were either on lunch break from school or had just finished school. They were enthralled with us Westerners, and spoke just a little English. It was a fun interaction.
At Orchha, we checked into another heritage property, a former royal hunting lodge. It was really cool. Alas, still no hair dryer. (I'd taken a very small one but it was slow to get the job done. It was better than nothing, but not much. Only one hotel on our entire trip had a hair dryer - and we're not there yet.)
We toured the palace. Only Sydney and I wanted to go; the others decided to relax at the hotel. I'm so glad I went. We practically had the place to ourselves. There are some paintings on the inside that, although not nearly as old, made me think of the Valley of the Kings in Egypt.
Afterwards, Tej picked us up on a motorbike to take us to a cooking demonstration with the others. Yes, really - a motorbike. All three of us rode on it. I'd seen locals put multiple people on a motorbike, and had also seen it in Thailand. But I'd never experienced it. Sydney and I were both game and off we went! It wasn't far, but it was certainly fun.
The in-home cooking demonstration was delightful. Good food plus a fascinating opportunity to see someone's home. The family had two small children and the husband's sister also lived with them. The home was very clean and had bright pink walls. The two kids were adorable. We had masala chai (of course!), a chicken dish, some eggplant, and bread. It was all delicious. There were a couple of other things, but I don't remember. As we were leaving, some young men at a stand next door asked us to take their picture, and of course, I accommodated them.
We walked back to the hotel - about 15-20 minutes in the dark (this was a very small town!) - and went straight to bed. Next morning we were leaving about 9, and I decided I'd have time to make it into town on my own, so off I went on foot. It was a fascinating experience. I saw two little boys being schooled by their mom outside on a little patio. There was a man taking his cows out (or in?) for the day. Three young men in colorful green outfits asked me to take their picture. Some little girls on the roof of their house posed for me when I held up my camera and pointed at them. I saw a man pumping water at an outdoor water pump. Cows were wandering the street.
I realized I wasn't going to have time to walk back and started fretting about what to do. I saw a young man in his 30s standing next to his motorbike and (this is going to sound really stupid!) I asked him if he'd take me back to the hotel. I pointed at myself and then at the back of his motorbike and said "hotel"? pointing in the direction of our hotel. Well, his eyes got great big and he kind of leaned back. So I apologized and kept going. Once I made it into town, it occurred to me I might be able to find a tuk-tuk. Sure enough, there was a tuk-tuk stand and for 60 rupees, I was soon speeding back to the hotel. I didn't mention it until that evening. "Tej," I said, "there's something I didn't tell you about when I walked to town this morning..." and I told him about asking the guy for a ride home. Tej (and everyone) laughed and laughed - and of course made many jokes about the American woman who tried to get the local guy to go to her hotel... (duh)
Anyway, it was all good (no worries, Indian curries, as Tej says) and we headed for Khajuraho.
More to come.
Jan 2nd, 2011, 04:06 PM
#64
And here are the Orchha photos (plus the stops on the way).
http://kbutler1122.zenfolio.com/p555764914
http://kbutler1122.zenfolio.com/p555764914
Jan 3rd, 2011, 03:25 PM
#68
Thanks for hanging in there with me. I know I can be long-winded.
Khajuraho
We took our two taxi/vans from Orchha to Khajuraho, and had an in-home lunch when we arrived. The household consisted of (I think) father/mother, grandmother, older daughter (or maybe niece), and two small children. I'm not quite sure I've got the relationships right. What was apparent based on our two in-home experiences, and from what Tej told us, is that that many India middle-class and lower-middle class families have extended families living together under one roof.
It was a great experience - loved interacting with the kids, and the food, once again, was terrific. After checking into our hotel, a Ramada (the only chain hotel we stayed in - and quite nice, with the only HAIRDRYER of the trip), we headed for the temples.
Our local guide at the temples was pretty entertaining (although even more long-winded than I am!). He had funny stories to go with some of the erotic statues, and although I'd heard about them before going, I hadn't actually seen pictures. They are, indeed, graphic. I wonder if Khajuraho is included on the Intrepid "family" trip! I can't imagine having to explain some of the statues to an 8-year-old.
Anyway, I found the temples fascinating. The reminded me of the Angkor temples, although they were built a bit earlier (starting around 950). They escaped devastation by invaders because they were abandoned and became overgrown. When the British rediscovered them, they literally took them apart and put them back together piece-by-piece, like a puzzle. They numbered the statues so they could put them back together right. You could still see the numbers on them.
We wandered around on our own for awhile after the tour. Blip didn't quite know what to make of it all, but he sure was checking out those statues.
Afterwards, we strolled through town for a little shopping, but the touts were on us like wool on a sheep (as Blip would say). It was the worst place of the entire trip for touts. I learned that saying "maybe later" was actually more effective than a definite "no." Oh, and also by this time, I had pretty well perfected the Indian head-bobble - which kind of means yes, but not necessarily. It's more like a non-committal "no problem," as Tej described it. He said it kind of depends on context, but apparently it communicates a lot to Indians. We all practiced it, although I'm not sure any of us became as skilled as Tej. (I'm now reading Shantaram, and there's a whole scene where the main character talks about it. I laughed when I read it because I'd already experienced it personally.) I did buy a few things there, notably a painting on silk, which is a gift for my daughter - I think she'll love it.
That evening we went to see a local dance. It was pretty good, and the costumes were gorgeous.
Khajuraho is worth a stop if you're in the area (and the sculptures are definitely something you don't see every day!), but personally I enjoyed Orchha much more and could have skipped the latter (or shortened the stop) in favor of more time in the former.
Next up Varanasi.
Khajuraho
We took our two taxi/vans from Orchha to Khajuraho, and had an in-home lunch when we arrived. The household consisted of (I think) father/mother, grandmother, older daughter (or maybe niece), and two small children. I'm not quite sure I've got the relationships right. What was apparent based on our two in-home experiences, and from what Tej told us, is that that many India middle-class and lower-middle class families have extended families living together under one roof.
It was a great experience - loved interacting with the kids, and the food, once again, was terrific. After checking into our hotel, a Ramada (the only chain hotel we stayed in - and quite nice, with the only HAIRDRYER of the trip), we headed for the temples.
Our local guide at the temples was pretty entertaining (although even more long-winded than I am!). He had funny stories to go with some of the erotic statues, and although I'd heard about them before going, I hadn't actually seen pictures. They are, indeed, graphic. I wonder if Khajuraho is included on the Intrepid "family" trip! I can't imagine having to explain some of the statues to an 8-year-old.
Anyway, I found the temples fascinating. The reminded me of the Angkor temples, although they were built a bit earlier (starting around 950). They escaped devastation by invaders because they were abandoned and became overgrown. When the British rediscovered them, they literally took them apart and put them back together piece-by-piece, like a puzzle. They numbered the statues so they could put them back together right. You could still see the numbers on them.
We wandered around on our own for awhile after the tour. Blip didn't quite know what to make of it all, but he sure was checking out those statues.
Afterwards, we strolled through town for a little shopping, but the touts were on us like wool on a sheep (as Blip would say). It was the worst place of the entire trip for touts. I learned that saying "maybe later" was actually more effective than a definite "no." Oh, and also by this time, I had pretty well perfected the Indian head-bobble - which kind of means yes, but not necessarily. It's more like a non-committal "no problem," as Tej described it. He said it kind of depends on context, but apparently it communicates a lot to Indians. We all practiced it, although I'm not sure any of us became as skilled as Tej. (I'm now reading Shantaram, and there's a whole scene where the main character talks about it. I laughed when I read it because I'd already experienced it personally.) I did buy a few things there, notably a painting on silk, which is a gift for my daughter - I think she'll love it.
That evening we went to see a local dance. It was pretty good, and the costumes were gorgeous.
Khajuraho is worth a stop if you're in the area (and the sculptures are definitely something you don't see every day!), but personally I enjoyed Orchha much more and could have skipped the latter (or shortened the stop) in favor of more time in the former.
Next up Varanasi.
Jan 3rd, 2011, 04:10 PM
#69
And here are the long-awaited photos from Khajuraho.
http://kbutler1122.zenfolio.com/p492220798
(Don't expect too much. I did some doctoring at home because my creative juices weren't slowing when we were there. Guess my brain was numb!)
http://kbutler1122.zenfolio.com/p492220798
(Don't expect too much. I did some doctoring at home because my creative juices weren't slowing when we were there. Guess my brain was numb!)
Jan 3rd, 2011, 05:54 PM
#71
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ROTFLMAO of the photoshopped(?) Blip regarding the menages a trois. Looks like he coped just fine!
We saw similar at the temple in Hassan, Karnataka. My young adult daughter was a bit embarrassed by my animated comments! The guide didn't have the much sense of humor-- he'd heard it all before. No wonder some of those Hindu gods have numerous arms and hands!
There's a long thread on Indiamike about the head bobble -- funny. Also there are some youtubes on the topic. Have you seen Russell Peters do it?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KQqzROAZZQ0
My theory is it's an instinctive way of dealing with inner ear fluid imbalance, prior to riding in a car in traffic there.
I hope your daughter goes with you next time, Karen!
We saw similar at the temple in Hassan, Karnataka. My young adult daughter was a bit embarrassed by my animated comments! The guide didn't have the much sense of humor-- he'd heard it all before. No wonder some of those Hindu gods have numerous arms and hands!
There's a long thread on Indiamike about the head bobble -- funny. Also there are some youtubes on the topic. Have you seen Russell Peters do it?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KQqzROAZZQ0
My theory is it's an instinctive way of dealing with inner ear fluid imbalance, prior to riding in a car in traffic there.
I hope your daughter goes with you next time, Karen!
Jan 4th, 2011, 02:58 PM
#73
Hi danjagrrl - it was North India Highlights, a "comfort" tour. Here's the link:
http://www.intrepidtravel.com/trips/HHKH
http://www.intrepidtravel.com/trips/HHKH
Jan 4th, 2011, 04:26 PM
#77
bniemand - thanks for your feedback - it looks like we posted about the same time. You'll see the answer to your questions right above your post.
cali - thanks, I hope my daughter goes along next time, too! (I think she's just a little bit sorry she didn't go this time!)
cali - thanks, I hope my daughter goes along next time, too! (I think she's just a little bit sorry she didn't go this time!)
Jan 5th, 2011, 05:12 PM
#79
I'll just have to travel with Blip more often!
Varanasi
The next morning we had a few hours for some final shopping in Khajuraho before heading to the airport for our flight to Varanasi. All went smoothly, and in about an hour we were there. I noticed in the Intrepid trip notes they're now changing it so that instead of flying to Varanasi, they take the overnight train. Not sure why they changed it (cheaper, I guess), but glad we got to fly.
The airport is a ways out of town, so two vans took us to our hotel, which was right on the Ganges. As much as we'd seen of hectic, chaotic India, that drive into Varanasi was unreal. Lots of activity, lots of daily life, lots of poor people. Our driver beeped the horn literally every 10 seconds or so. For the first 20 minutes it drove me crazy, then, well ok, just go with the flow. The beeping seemed a way that drivers communicated with one another. I'd heard lots of beeping before, but hadn't actually been inside a vehicle that beeped constantly.
We passed what appeared to be a political march with people campaigning for office - with signs and loudspeakers. At another point, we got held up by traffic on a very narrow road, and when I looked down at the "sidewalk" (we were in a van, so up higher than a car), there was a goat and a couple of small kids (baby goats, not human children). We realized that the kids had literally JUST BEEN BORN. We saw the back end of the mother goat, with gunk hanging out and a heavy sack, which suggested there may have been another kid still inside; this was about 5 feet from our van. The goat had just given birth right there on the sidewalk. When a couple of men saw us looking (wide-eyed, I'm sure), they smiled and pointed at the goat and kids. It was surreal. Goats born on the sidewalk, in a city?
We checked into our hotel, another heritage property, Palace on the Ganges, which was nice. Sydney and I initially got ground-level rooms, but they moved us up to the main level the next morning. We got a bite to eat at the rooftop restaurant (not great - too many flies) before setting out for a walk along the ghats. I can't even begin to describe Varanasi. It's a step into the past. Or maybe a step into a story book. It can't possibly be real, can it?
After our walk, we headed to the main commerce area. (Some areas, by the way were off limits to us because there had been a bombing at the main ghat a few days before our arrival. One woman was killed and about 30 others injured. Consequently, we didn't get to go to certain tourist spots.)
We had another shopping stop that evening - at a scarf/tablecloth/bed covering place. A silk shop. It was really fun. I had wanted to buy some scarves in a relatively low key environment and this was cool. One of our group bought some material for saris. Two bought duvet covers. And most of the rest of us bought some scarves.
Afterwards, we took cycle rickshaws (yay - I was wanting to do that!) to dinner. Tej picked out a very low-key place - an upstairs restaurant with an outdoor terrace. We had it to ourselves. Then it was back to our hotel and to bed.
I'm going to keep it short tonight and will finish Varanasi soon. I took so many pictures there that it will take me awhile to sort through them and get them posted.
More to come, including boat rides on the Ganges and an encounter with a renowned swami...
Varanasi
The next morning we had a few hours for some final shopping in Khajuraho before heading to the airport for our flight to Varanasi. All went smoothly, and in about an hour we were there. I noticed in the Intrepid trip notes they're now changing it so that instead of flying to Varanasi, they take the overnight train. Not sure why they changed it (cheaper, I guess), but glad we got to fly.
The airport is a ways out of town, so two vans took us to our hotel, which was right on the Ganges. As much as we'd seen of hectic, chaotic India, that drive into Varanasi was unreal. Lots of activity, lots of daily life, lots of poor people. Our driver beeped the horn literally every 10 seconds or so. For the first 20 minutes it drove me crazy, then, well ok, just go with the flow. The beeping seemed a way that drivers communicated with one another. I'd heard lots of beeping before, but hadn't actually been inside a vehicle that beeped constantly.
We passed what appeared to be a political march with people campaigning for office - with signs and loudspeakers. At another point, we got held up by traffic on a very narrow road, and when I looked down at the "sidewalk" (we were in a van, so up higher than a car), there was a goat and a couple of small kids (baby goats, not human children). We realized that the kids had literally JUST BEEN BORN. We saw the back end of the mother goat, with gunk hanging out and a heavy sack, which suggested there may have been another kid still inside; this was about 5 feet from our van. The goat had just given birth right there on the sidewalk. When a couple of men saw us looking (wide-eyed, I'm sure), they smiled and pointed at the goat and kids. It was surreal. Goats born on the sidewalk, in a city?
We checked into our hotel, another heritage property, Palace on the Ganges, which was nice. Sydney and I initially got ground-level rooms, but they moved us up to the main level the next morning. We got a bite to eat at the rooftop restaurant (not great - too many flies) before setting out for a walk along the ghats. I can't even begin to describe Varanasi. It's a step into the past. Or maybe a step into a story book. It can't possibly be real, can it?
After our walk, we headed to the main commerce area. (Some areas, by the way were off limits to us because there had been a bombing at the main ghat a few days before our arrival. One woman was killed and about 30 others injured. Consequently, we didn't get to go to certain tourist spots.)
We had another shopping stop that evening - at a scarf/tablecloth/bed covering place. A silk shop. It was really fun. I had wanted to buy some scarves in a relatively low key environment and this was cool. One of our group bought some material for saris. Two bought duvet covers. And most of the rest of us bought some scarves.
Afterwards, we took cycle rickshaws (yay - I was wanting to do that!) to dinner. Tej picked out a very low-key place - an upstairs restaurant with an outdoor terrace. We had it to ourselves. Then it was back to our hotel and to bed.
I'm going to keep it short tonight and will finish Varanasi soon. I took so many pictures there that it will take me awhile to sort through them and get them posted.
More to come, including boat rides on the Ganges and an encounter with a renowned swami...
