A fine september
Nov 18th, 2023, 05:28 AM
#21
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 4,723
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
This report brings back memories of our trip last June! Looking forward to Edinburgh!
Nov 21st, 2023, 09:40 AM
#22
Original Poster
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 5,642
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Edinburgh is Quite a Town
We loved Cellardyke right away, but with Edinburgh it took maybe 16 hours including a good night's sleep. It surely has more kilt shops per mile than anywhere else, and actual live men in kilts. Some of them were in wedding parties that Saturday night, some in street performances or charging tourists to take photos, some sheepishly wearing them as part of their jobs, others going about their everyday lives. Men in kilts, and bagpipes heard from afar: Edinburgh has them; vibrant, youthful, hilly, bursting with creativity. When we were there, it was recovering from the very recent Festival.
Our Airbnb was around 3/4 of the way down the Royal Mile hill toward Holyrood Palace, just next to Canondale Kirk. I chanced on it based on the location and photos, but not yet reviewed. We had the first floor of a very old building with thick stone walls, long and narrow, with a disused garden on one side and the churchyard on the other. Entirely quiet and private, managed by one of those corporations that you learn about after you book. Obviously new to their portfolio, it had a few issues to be worked out, but was spacious and clean, with well-stocked kitchen, very good for us. The plaque at Panmure Close entrance said it had been the site of Jacobean Earl of Panmure’s townhouse and garden, and later the home of Invisible Hand economist Adam Smith. I wonder whether ours was that house in a humbler rebirth.
Finally at journey’s end, David wanted to take me somewhere nice for my birthday dinner, but I only had enough mojo for the little kebab hole in the wall across the street. Well reviewed and everything grilled to order, delicious. We waited for our orders next to a couple of women from Colorado, the first of several Americans who asked where we were from. Eventually, I was tempted to give a false answer, like “Devon” or “Madeira.”
The Royal Mile is thick with tourist shops and comfortable looking Americans, and full of beautiful things to see, more interesting things to do than we had time. It was a good place for us to stay, just down from the Tollbooth, with its Tavern and cool little People’s Museum.
Canondale Kirk is worth peeking into, and has fine gardens out back. A small plaque marks the place where David Riccio’s body was allegedly brought and buried after Mary Queen of Scot’s husband had him stabbed numerous times down at Holyrood Palace, frowning upon supposed adultery. Inside the Kirk there's a painting of a white stag with the legend of King David’s vision in the forest. My David had said he spotted a white stag from the train window as we approached Edinburgh from London. Also a vision? Apparently white deer are very rare.
The day after we arrived, David and I split up to explore on our own. I headed for the National Gallery, unfortunately then mostly closed off for renovation, to reopen soon after we left. Still a few wonderful works from the collection, including a Velasquez and a Botticelli. Had a fun little conversation with a sweet young art student
I took my time that day, lingering in the park, then up the stairs to the top of the hill. There, on the High Street, I came upon a parade that had already made its way up the Royal Mile. Pipers! A marching band. Many beautifully groomed horses, proudly ridden. What a treat. When I rejoined David back at our place, I found he had stayed on the Royal Mile all day, shopping for a tweed cap and a present for his sweetheart, exploring Kirk gardens, enjoying the parade.
We had supper in a pub up the hill, Cullen skink, local ales, told about our day.
We loved Cellardyke right away, but with Edinburgh it took maybe 16 hours including a good night's sleep. It surely has more kilt shops per mile than anywhere else, and actual live men in kilts. Some of them were in wedding parties that Saturday night, some in street performances or charging tourists to take photos, some sheepishly wearing them as part of their jobs, others going about their everyday lives. Men in kilts, and bagpipes heard from afar: Edinburgh has them; vibrant, youthful, hilly, bursting with creativity. When we were there, it was recovering from the very recent Festival.
Our Airbnb was around 3/4 of the way down the Royal Mile hill toward Holyrood Palace, just next to Canondale Kirk. I chanced on it based on the location and photos, but not yet reviewed. We had the first floor of a very old building with thick stone walls, long and narrow, with a disused garden on one side and the churchyard on the other. Entirely quiet and private, managed by one of those corporations that you learn about after you book. Obviously new to their portfolio, it had a few issues to be worked out, but was spacious and clean, with well-stocked kitchen, very good for us. The plaque at Panmure Close entrance said it had been the site of Jacobean Earl of Panmure’s townhouse and garden, and later the home of Invisible Hand economist Adam Smith. I wonder whether ours was that house in a humbler rebirth.
Finally at journey’s end, David wanted to take me somewhere nice for my birthday dinner, but I only had enough mojo for the little kebab hole in the wall across the street. Well reviewed and everything grilled to order, delicious. We waited for our orders next to a couple of women from Colorado, the first of several Americans who asked where we were from. Eventually, I was tempted to give a false answer, like “Devon” or “Madeira.”
The Royal Mile is thick with tourist shops and comfortable looking Americans, and full of beautiful things to see, more interesting things to do than we had time. It was a good place for us to stay, just down from the Tollbooth, with its Tavern and cool little People’s Museum.
Canondale Kirk is worth peeking into, and has fine gardens out back. A small plaque marks the place where David Riccio’s body was allegedly brought and buried after Mary Queen of Scot’s husband had him stabbed numerous times down at Holyrood Palace, frowning upon supposed adultery. Inside the Kirk there's a painting of a white stag with the legend of King David’s vision in the forest. My David had said he spotted a white stag from the train window as we approached Edinburgh from London. Also a vision? Apparently white deer are very rare.
The day after we arrived, David and I split up to explore on our own. I headed for the National Gallery, unfortunately then mostly closed off for renovation, to reopen soon after we left. Still a few wonderful works from the collection, including a Velasquez and a Botticelli. Had a fun little conversation with a sweet young art student
I took my time that day, lingering in the park, then up the stairs to the top of the hill. There, on the High Street, I came upon a parade that had already made its way up the Royal Mile. Pipers! A marching band. Many beautifully groomed horses, proudly ridden. What a treat. When I rejoined David back at our place, I found he had stayed on the Royal Mile all day, shopping for a tweed cap and a present for his sweetheart, exploring Kirk gardens, enjoying the parade.
We had supper in a pub up the hill, Cullen skink, local ales, told about our day.
Last edited by stokebailey; Nov 21st, 2023 at 10:11 AM.
Nov 21st, 2023, 10:02 AM
#23
Original Poster
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 5,642
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The Kirk.
Tollbooth
Random guy, bless him.
England beat Scotland in a heartbreaker.
The king in question was James I or VI. I looked it up.
Other offerings of our little kabob joint.
Nov 21st, 2023, 04:46 PM
#25
Great trip report - but do note it’s Canongate Kirk, not Canondale.
I remember when Princess Anne’s daughter, Zara, was married there in 2011. Another couple had the church reserved for the date they wanted, so apparently the royals per$uaded them to use another venue.
I remember when Princess Anne’s daughter, Zara, was married there in 2011. Another couple had the church reserved for the date they wanted, so apparently the royals per$uaded them to use another venue.
Nov 21st, 2023, 06:57 PM
#26
Loving your report. Have trod all the same places so many times.
I've been out all day so you beat me 
Had Canondale Kirk in copy/past mode when I saw your post at the bottom . . . Canondalegate Kirk.
Had Canondale Kirk in copy/past mode when I saw your post at the bottom . . . Canon
Nov 23rd, 2023, 12:59 PM
#28
Original Poster
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 5,642
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Embarrassing, nyse! I thought something didn't look right, was proud of myself for only having two n's in Canon.
Good for Zara. Can't blame her for wanting something close to her reception site, the old family Palace. I already give her credit for not running around expecting everyone to call her "Princess."
Yes, TDud, fried Mars bar, and I let that once in a lifetime opportunity slip by (unless I ever get to the Minnesota State Fair.) You always think there'll be plenty of time....
Thank you, Janis. Keep me honest.
Eating in Edinburgh
Not having use of internet when out and about was becoming a hindrance, and so was my useless makeshift mobile charger/UK adapter. Sunday overnight my phone charged from 34% all the way up to 37%, not nearly enough. I finally figured out how to use my $10 worth of Airalo eSIM, and it worked beautifully the rest of my month there. A walk up the hill then left on South Bridge Street took me through the less touristy, more student-y, University of Edinburgh area to a mobile shop where they fixed me up with dandy charger and cord.
Tesco Express is an easy block or so, cutting through a close to Cowgate/Holyrood Road. There’s also a Scottish Grocer corner shop up the road a few blocks.
David and I met for lunch at the Scottish Café’s sunny terrace by the Royal Academy galleries, overlooking the Gardens. Sweet server, okay food, lovely day and views, and perfect for people-watching. One fashion trend I’ve never seen anywhere else: tight stretchy skirts on women of all body types and levels of fitness, through middle age. Not Fit? -- No Problem, is the message, and good for them.
Another memorable meal was at Fishers, in Leith. Bus 35 stops in front of Canongate Kirk, takes you past Holyrood Palace, through working-class-looking neighborhoods to a revitalized area by the Firth of Forth. Built around an ancient looking tower, a knotty pine ship-like interior, windows on the Waters of Leith. Excellent fish. A young man sat near us, solo, and demolished a large seafood platter. Was the hostess playing cupid when she seated a solo young woman directly across from him? They remained attentive only to their dinners, to my romcom disappointment.
After dinner, we strolled down past where a young man fished from the sidewalk with a long pole, past tony new apartment buildings towards the port, the Royal Britannia yacht, then overlooking a lock, a lighthouse, and what looks like a naval yard. I wouldn’t mind living in that watery suburb.
Good for Zara. Can't blame her for wanting something close to her reception site, the old family Palace. I already give her credit for not running around expecting everyone to call her "Princess."
Yes, TDud, fried Mars bar, and I let that once in a lifetime opportunity slip by (unless I ever get to the Minnesota State Fair.) You always think there'll be plenty of time....
Thank you, Janis. Keep me honest.
Eating in Edinburgh
Not having use of internet when out and about was becoming a hindrance, and so was my useless makeshift mobile charger/UK adapter. Sunday overnight my phone charged from 34% all the way up to 37%, not nearly enough. I finally figured out how to use my $10 worth of Airalo eSIM, and it worked beautifully the rest of my month there. A walk up the hill then left on South Bridge Street took me through the less touristy, more student-y, University of Edinburgh area to a mobile shop where they fixed me up with dandy charger and cord.
Tesco Express is an easy block or so, cutting through a close to Cowgate/Holyrood Road. There’s also a Scottish Grocer corner shop up the road a few blocks.
David and I met for lunch at the Scottish Café’s sunny terrace by the Royal Academy galleries, overlooking the Gardens. Sweet server, okay food, lovely day and views, and perfect for people-watching. One fashion trend I’ve never seen anywhere else: tight stretchy skirts on women of all body types and levels of fitness, through middle age. Not Fit? -- No Problem, is the message, and good for them.
Another memorable meal was at Fishers, in Leith. Bus 35 stops in front of Canongate Kirk, takes you past Holyrood Palace, through working-class-looking neighborhoods to a revitalized area by the Firth of Forth. Built around an ancient looking tower, a knotty pine ship-like interior, windows on the Waters of Leith. Excellent fish. A young man sat near us, solo, and demolished a large seafood platter. Was the hostess playing cupid when she seated a solo young woman directly across from him? They remained attentive only to their dinners, to my romcom disappointment.
After dinner, we strolled down past where a young man fished from the sidewalk with a long pole, past tony new apartment buildings towards the port, the Royal Britannia yacht, then overlooking a lock, a lighthouse, and what looks like a naval yard. I wouldn’t mind living in that watery suburb.
Last edited by stokebailey; Nov 23rd, 2023 at 01:10 PM.
Nov 23rd, 2023, 01:58 PM
#30
Original Poster
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 5,642
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
We had especially good Salmon Benedict for breakfast one morning at Café Edinburgh, on Canongate. So good. David had walked by previously and spotted someone just being served, knew it was not to be missed.
Someone posted a short video on his Google Map review, the golden yolk being pierced.
Someone posted a short video on his Google Map review, the golden yolk being pierced.
Last edited by stokebailey; Nov 23rd, 2023 at 02:04 PM.
Nov 27th, 2023, 10:18 AM
#32
Original Poster
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 5,642
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
A few fine Edinbrugh days
Our four days in Edinburgh passed swiftly, as lovely September days will. I ventured north of Princes Street once, after David and I gave up on finding a department store there that sold fine woolens. He ended up buying his plaid throw blanket on the Royal Mile. I bought tartan scarves there for my daughters, too. For my son-in-law I got 100 ml carryon bottles of scotch at Cadenhead's Whisky Shop, a sweet and rich-smelling place where young salesclerk told me her partner would not go near her when she drank the peatiest blend. I'm not a whiskey drinker, but every time I sample a sip of good scotch I think I could develop the taste. Best restrict my expensive habits to opera and travel, though.
My north of Princes St. afternoon I spent at the National Portrait Gallery. History, genealogy, architecture and art in one magnificent building that glows with national pride. I sat and sketched, rested, wandered most of the afternoon, then headed back thinking I'd catch a bus home. Princes St maintained its perfect record of thwarting me when the bus I'd waited for wasn't going my way, after all. Never mind, I'll walk. By this time, David had embraced Edinbrough, made his own explorations and discoveries.
Our four days in Edinburgh passed swiftly, as lovely September days will. I ventured north of Princes Street once, after David and I gave up on finding a department store there that sold fine woolens. He ended up buying his plaid throw blanket on the Royal Mile. I bought tartan scarves there for my daughters, too. For my son-in-law I got 100 ml carryon bottles of scotch at Cadenhead's Whisky Shop, a sweet and rich-smelling place where young salesclerk told me her partner would not go near her when she drank the peatiest blend. I'm not a whiskey drinker, but every time I sample a sip of good scotch I think I could develop the taste. Best restrict my expensive habits to opera and travel, though.
My north of Princes St. afternoon I spent at the National Portrait Gallery. History, genealogy, architecture and art in one magnificent building that glows with national pride. I sat and sketched, rested, wandered most of the afternoon, then headed back thinking I'd catch a bus home. Princes St maintained its perfect record of thwarting me when the bus I'd waited for wasn't going my way, after all. Never mind, I'll walk. By this time, David had embraced Edinbrough, made his own explorations and discoveries.
Nov 27th, 2023, 10:50 AM
#33
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 4,723
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Stokebailey, I am not a whisky drinker either but I did participate in a whisky tasting on Skye at the Talisker Distillery. My husband loves whisky, so we booked a tour at Talisker that of course includes a tasting. We bought 4 bottles of Talisker Scotch to bring home. And I bought myself at scarf at the Culloden Battlefield gift shop that I've been wearing. It's very warm and so glad I bought it because my old one is looking quite worn.
I love Edinburgh! Especially the Old Town but New Town is lovely, too. Love the architecture and ambiance! We traveled with another couple, and they weren't so enamored of Edinburgh. Thought it was like any other European city but I disagree with them. We had 4 nights in Edinburgh, and I wish we had an extra night to explore more of Old Town.
I love Edinburgh! Especially the Old Town but New Town is lovely, too. Love the architecture and ambiance! We traveled with another couple, and they weren't so enamored of Edinburgh. Thought it was like any other European city but I disagree with them. We had 4 nights in Edinburgh, and I wish we had an extra night to explore more of Old Town.
Nov 27th, 2023, 12:21 PM
#35
Original Poster
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 5,642
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
" Heave awa' chaps. I'm no' dead yet.". They make them tough in Edinburgh.
Some intrepid person rides this bicycle delivery up Edinburgh hills to John Knox Wellhead.
View from Scottish Café terrace.
National Portrait Gallery.
The sky and The Mound.
Last edited by stokebailey; Nov 27th, 2023 at 12:36 PM.
Nov 27th, 2023, 01:09 PM
#37
Edinburgh shopping?
Nov 27th, 2023, 03:10 PM
#38
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 4,723
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Couldn’t think where this mention came from as I had only commented once on this thread - then I realized:
Edinburgh shopping?
Edinburgh shopping?
Nov 29th, 2023, 10:09 AM
#40
Original Poster
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 5,642
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ouch, sorry. I forgot nyse's blue scarf was on another thread. Not trying to be obscure. Someone had left one at Holyrood a few years ago.
Karen, thank you. The Portrait Gallery is so worth a few visits. I wish I'd had the energy to spend more hours, or time to go back.
I sketched faces that interested me, William Drummond and Elizabeth Hamilton. I find it soothing to sit, sketch, get immersed in just a few paintings besides overview. Then I have my lightweight travel journal to look at later.
There's a large painting that depicts King Charles I before, during and after beheading. Scot connection? Don't know. Maybe they just happen to have it there.
Karen, thank you. The Portrait Gallery is so worth a few visits. I wish I'd had the energy to spend more hours, or time to go back.
I sketched faces that interested me, William Drummond and Elizabeth Hamilton. I find it soothing to sit, sketch, get immersed in just a few paintings besides overview. Then I have my lightweight travel journal to look at later.
There's a large painting that depicts King Charles I before, during and after beheading. Scot connection? Don't know. Maybe they just happen to have it there.
