A July Trip to Poland and the Czech Republic
#61
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I know it is often tempting to compare Warsaw to Krakow and which is better. I did so myself as we were planning this trip, not so much whether we visited one or the other but how we allocate our time between the two. Old Town Warsaw aside, Krakow, in my view, has more character and is more visually pleasing. We spent four nights in Krakow and could have easily filled more, but the same is true for Warsaw. Given our limited time, we did not visit the numerous museums that dot the city. We very much enjoyed Wawel, particularly the Cathedral, but also found Kazimierz very pleasant for wandering.
St. Mary's Basilica
Alterpiece at St. Mary's Basilica
Cloth Hall
Wawel Castle
Courtyard at Wawel Castle
Monument at the New Jewish Cemetery
Schindler's Factory
St. Joseph Church
St. Mary's Basilica
Alterpiece at St. Mary's Basilica
Cloth Hall
Wawel Castle
Courtyard at Wawel Castle
Monument at the New Jewish Cemetery
Schindler's Factory
St. Joseph Church
#63
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I didn't go to Warsaw so I can't compare the two. But I can tell you that the historic core of Krakow has a very special vibe of a rather mysterious Eastern European city. Just look at the rynek, which is jaw-dropping, and you will see St Mary's basilica has two towers that are of different architectural styles and heights, one topped with a gothic cupola, the other renaissance. There is an imposing independent tower looming over the cloth hall that looks like it had some connecting wall stripped away, leaving it scarred. When I was there, bats were swooping at high speed toward the tower, making a last-second 90 degree swerve to avoid collision. There is a small romanesque church, St Wojciech, with a dome (!) that occupies one corner of the square. All through the old town is evidence of architecture that had to make do with limited resources. The defensive walls of the city that remain have a wooden gallery attached. Not only is everyhting old old, but it is all of a piece that comes together in a kind of harmonious hodgepodge.
And none of it is completely given over to tourism. It still is very much a place for the Poles to meet, pass through, or stop by the cafes.
And none of it is completely given over to tourism. It still is very much a place for the Poles to meet, pass through, or stop by the cafes.
#65
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Reflecting back on our trip, we most enjoyed the Old Town. While reconstructed, it was full of life while we were there and such a vibrant antidote to the destruction that ravaged the city in World War II, not to mention the centuries of partition and occupation preceding it. We saw Warsaw as a powerful reminder that there could be a viable life after war, especially given where things are in the world today.
#66
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Shelemm, you’re so right about Krakow. There are so many layers to Krakow and more and more reveal itself with time. And agree with you about the presence of locals throughout Krakow. This was also true in Warsaw, especially outside of the Old Town.
KarenWoo, yes, indeed. Having seen Krakow made me appreciate the faithfulness of the reconstruction in Warsaw’s Old Town even more. At quick look, the Old Town Warsaw is very central Europe. But upon closer examination, especially in the decoration and ornamentation of the buildings, it becomes clearer how much of it is Polish.
Ms_go, welcome. Awesome that you’re able to trace your ancestry back in this way. Hope you get a chance to see some of the places your family touched if you haven’t already.
And without further ado, here are some photos of Olomouc, much regarded as the Czech Republic’s “second” city. We enjoyed the city for its ease of exploration and the lack of tourist crowds, although, to be honest, we wouldn’t mind if it was a bit livelier. Could be that we were there on a weekend or perhaps it’s slower to recover from COVID. It’s also possible that we were there over summer when school’s out as it is also an university town.
Old Town Square
Column of the Holy Trinity, colloquially referred to as the Plague Column
Town Hall
Astronomical Clock, rebuilt in the Soviet era
One of several fountains found in Olomouc
St. Wenceslaus Cathedral
KarenWoo, yes, indeed. Having seen Krakow made me appreciate the faithfulness of the reconstruction in Warsaw’s Old Town even more. At quick look, the Old Town Warsaw is very central Europe. But upon closer examination, especially in the decoration and ornamentation of the buildings, it becomes clearer how much of it is Polish.
Ms_go, welcome. Awesome that you’re able to trace your ancestry back in this way. Hope you get a chance to see some of the places your family touched if you haven’t already.
And without further ado, here are some photos of Olomouc, much regarded as the Czech Republic’s “second” city. We enjoyed the city for its ease of exploration and the lack of tourist crowds, although, to be honest, we wouldn’t mind if it was a bit livelier. Could be that we were there on a weekend or perhaps it’s slower to recover from COVID. It’s also possible that we were there over summer when school’s out as it is also an university town.
Old Town Square
Column of the Holy Trinity, colloquially referred to as the Plague Column
Town Hall
Astronomical Clock, rebuilt in the Soviet era
One of several fountains found in Olomouc
St. Wenceslaus Cathedral
#67
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We originally planned to use of extra day in Olomouc to explore some of the countryside, but with the on-again, off-again showers of the previous couple of days, we took a pass. Didn't really want to walk / hike in mud. And reading about the Archbishop's Palace and gardens in Kromeriz, we decided to give it a go. We were very happy we did. We only encountered a handful of visitors during our time in Kromeriz but saw plenty of locals at the cafes and restaurants and interacted with some in the public park adjacent to the palace. Definitely an undiscovered jewel.
Town Square
Archbishop's Palace from the public park (formerly park of the palace grounds)
Flower Gardens
Fountain within the flower gardens
Town Square
Archbishop's Palace from the public park (formerly park of the palace grounds)
Flower Gardens
Fountain within the flower gardens
#68
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To get from Olomouc to Cesky Krumlov, we hired a driver. Along the way, we stopped in Trebic and Telc. Trebic was fine. We found the square in Telc charming. And we absolutely loved Cesky Krumlov. The highlights were a visit to the castle as well as a raft ride along the Vltava River in the center of town. With more time, we wouldn't mind basing there and exploring some of the nearby areas.
Inside of a synagogue in Trebic
St. Procopius Basilica, Trebic
Town Square, Telc
Building on town square, Telc
More buildings on the town square, Telc
Cesky Krumlov with castle
Cesky Krumlov from the castle
Castle with Baroque Theater in the foreground
St. Vitus Church, Cesky Krumlov
Inside of a synagogue in Trebic
St. Procopius Basilica, Trebic
Town Square, Telc
Building on town square, Telc
More buildings on the town square, Telc
Cesky Krumlov with castle
Cesky Krumlov from the castle
Castle with Baroque Theater in the foreground
St. Vitus Church, Cesky Krumlov
#69
I am enjoying your photos! And I too found the reconstructed old town of Warsaw not "fake" but rather a moving testament to the fortitude of the Polish people. The Uprising Museum really put it in perspective. Krakow is amazing, beautiful, intimate--nonetheless Warsaw has a lot to offer.
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Leely2, thanks. And agreed on the Uprising Museum.
Now here are some photos from our day trip to Kutna Hora, which we took from Prague. Kutna Hora surprised me in its charm and the number of places of interest. Santa Barbara is stunning and the silver mine tour was fun. It was one place we wished we had more time, possibly even spending the night.
Cathedral of Our Lady of Assumption and St. John the Baptizer
Santa Barbara Cathedral
Alterpiece at Santa Barbara
Ceiling of Santa Barbara
Organ at Santa Barbara
Italian Court
Plague Column
One of the squares in Kutna Hora
Now here are some photos from our day trip to Kutna Hora, which we took from Prague. Kutna Hora surprised me in its charm and the number of places of interest. Santa Barbara is stunning and the silver mine tour was fun. It was one place we wished we had more time, possibly even spending the night.
Cathedral of Our Lady of Assumption and St. John the Baptizer
Santa Barbara Cathedral
Alterpiece at Santa Barbara
Ceiling of Santa Barbara
Organ at Santa Barbara
Italian Court
Plague Column
One of the squares in Kutna Hora
#71
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And last but definitely not least, a sample of our photos from Prague. We enjoyed the city on our first visit but totally fell in love this time. We could have spent a week in Prague or more if we had the time. Enjoy some views from and of the Old Town.
Old Town Square
Old Town Hall with Astronomical Clock
One of the rooms inside the Old Town Hall
Tyn Church
Black Madonna on one of the buildings in the Old Town
Powder Gate
View of the Municipal House dome from the Powder Gate observation deck
Wenceslaus Square
Wenceslaus Up Close
National Theater
An ad from a shop selling trdelnik, a delicious Czech treat
Old Town Square
Old Town Hall with Astronomical Clock
One of the rooms inside the Old Town Hall
Tyn Church
Black Madonna on one of the buildings in the Old Town
Powder Gate
View of the Municipal House dome from the Powder Gate observation deck
Wenceslaus Square
Wenceslaus Up Close
National Theater
An ad from a shop selling trdelnik, a delicious Czech treat
#72
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Photos from Prague Castle and the Lesser Town directly below the castle
Prague Castle
St. Vitus Cathedral
Inside St. Vitus, looking towards the altar
Stained glass rose window at St. Vitus
Organ at St. Vitus
Tomb of St. John on Nepomuk
South Tower of St. Vitus
Loreta Monastery
Strahov Monastery
Library room at Strahov Monastery
Another library room at Strahov Monastery
Church of St. Nicholas
Upper gallery at Church of St. Nicholas
Wallenstein Palace, home of the Czech Senate today
Prague Castle
St. Vitus Cathedral
Inside St. Vitus, looking towards the altar
Stained glass rose window at St. Vitus
Organ at St. Vitus
Tomb of St. John on Nepomuk
South Tower of St. Vitus
Loreta Monastery
Strahov Monastery
Library room at Strahov Monastery
Another library room at Strahov Monastery
Church of St. Nicholas
Upper gallery at Church of St. Nicholas
Wallenstein Palace, home of the Czech Senate today
#73
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Photos of Charles Bridge and the Vltava River
Old Town Gate leading to Charles Bridge
Prague Castle and the Vltava River from Charles Bridge
Charles Bridge and Old Town Prague from the South Gardens of Prague Castle
Going under Charles Bridge to Kampa Island
Old Town spires from Charles Bridge
Lesser Town end of Charles Bridge
Old Town end of Charles Bridge
View of Charles Bridge and Prague Castle from the Old Town Bridge Tower
Old Town Gate leading to Charles Bridge
Prague Castle and the Vltava River from Charles Bridge
Charles Bridge and Old Town Prague from the South Gardens of Prague Castle
Going under Charles Bridge to Kampa Island
Old Town spires from Charles Bridge
Lesser Town end of Charles Bridge
Old Town end of Charles Bridge
View of Charles Bridge and Prague Castle from the Old Town Bridge Tower
#74
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And a few more from parts of Prague that most tourists don't visit.
Fred and Ginger
Ginger up close, of Fred and Ginger
Basilica of St. Peter and St. Paul, Vysehrad neighborhood
Nave at Basilica of St. Peter and St. Paul
Inside the Basilica of St. Peter and St. Paul
Inside the Basilica of St. Peter and St. Paul
Church of St. Ludmila, Vinohrady neighborhood
Pavilion building, Vinohrady
View of Vinohrady buildings
Soviet-era ornamentation, Vinohrady
TV Tower in Zizkov
Viktor Monument, Zizkov neighborhood
View of Prague skyline from Viktor Monument
Fred and Ginger
Ginger up close, of Fred and Ginger
Basilica of St. Peter and St. Paul, Vysehrad neighborhood
Nave at Basilica of St. Peter and St. Paul
Inside the Basilica of St. Peter and St. Paul
Inside the Basilica of St. Peter and St. Paul
Church of St. Ludmila, Vinohrady neighborhood
Pavilion building, Vinohrady
View of Vinohrady buildings
Soviet-era ornamentation, Vinohrady
TV Tower in Zizkov
Viktor Monument, Zizkov neighborhood
View of Prague skyline from Viktor Monument
#75
Thanks for an evocative report and stunning photos ~ one of my favorite touches in Warsaw was the “Chopin benches” throughout the city ~ https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/...chopin-benches
And also, of course, the wonderful Chopin Monument in Lazienki Park.
And also, of course, the wonderful Chopin Monument in Lazienki Park.
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NYSE, yes on the Chopin bench. I only came across one though and expected a few more.
KarenWoo, thank you. After this visit, I'm not eager to see Prague during the holiday season. It must be magical.
KarenWoo, thank you. After this visit, I'm not eager to see Prague during the holiday season. It must be magical.
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