A taste of France (and a return to Switzerland)
Jun 4th, 2024, 01:48 PM
#41
Join Date: Mar 2014
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I love your last group of photos for Besancon. It does look like a very green city with the parks, trees, and flowers.
We visited Avignon a couple of times about 8 - 10 years ago. We must have been there during the off season because I don't remember that it was very crowded. Probably in early spring, I think.
Love your food photos especially that scrumptious apricot dessert!
We visited Avignon a couple of times about 8 - 10 years ago. We must have been there during the off season because I don't remember that it was very crowded. Probably in early spring, I think.
Love your food photos especially that scrumptious apricot dessert!
Jun 6th, 2024, 08:38 AM
#44
Day 9: Avignon base (Arles)
It’s less than 20 minutes by train and a €9 fare
This was just a wandering day, looking at my list of possibilities and deciding if I wanted to do them at the time.
And it’s an easy town to wander, 10 min walk from train station, and I was at the 90 AD Roman Ampitheatre, with lovely bustling squares, tiny lanes, and on to the Place de La Republique - the 15th C Church of Saint Trophime, the Romanesque Eglise Sainte-Anne, the 4th C Roman obelisk and the town hall, and then on to the Espace Van Gogh hospital he was committed to (the courtyard garden).
SCNF App is great, buy your tickets, track your stop.
Rhone river
Lovely square
Diverse food choices
The ampitheatre
Cat alley
The Roman architecture and Van Gogh connections are obviously a major tourist draw, but it’s a charming city to get lost in.
Looks so charming…
…no private parking or garden, but inner city living
Car parking and a garden
Quite the real estate, in centre of Arles
Lovely green spaces
Saint Trophime
I didn’t get to the Baths of Constantine or the Museum of Ancient Arles - I wandered the streets, sat in the gardens, ate a raspberry tart - I needed a slow day.
A very distracting window display
It was as good as it looks
Espace Van Gogh courtyard
It’s less than 20 minutes by train and a €9 fare
This was just a wandering day, looking at my list of possibilities and deciding if I wanted to do them at the time.
And it’s an easy town to wander, 10 min walk from train station, and I was at the 90 AD Roman Ampitheatre, with lovely bustling squares, tiny lanes, and on to the Place de La Republique - the 15th C Church of Saint Trophime, the Romanesque Eglise Sainte-Anne, the 4th C Roman obelisk and the town hall, and then on to the Espace Van Gogh hospital he was committed to (the courtyard garden).
SCNF App is great, buy your tickets, track your stop.
Rhone river
Lovely square
Diverse food choices
The ampitheatre
Cat alley
The Roman architecture and Van Gogh connections are obviously a major tourist draw, but it’s a charming city to get lost in.
Looks so charming…
…no private parking or garden, but inner city living
Car parking and a garden
Quite the real estate, in centre of Arles
Lovely green spaces
Saint Trophime
I didn’t get to the Baths of Constantine or the Museum of Ancient Arles - I wandered the streets, sat in the gardens, ate a raspberry tart - I needed a slow day.
A very distracting window display
It was as good as it looks
Espace Van Gogh courtyard
Jun 7th, 2024, 06:38 AM
#46
Day 10: Avignon base (Luberon villages day tour)
I booked this tour with Provans - the Orange tour option €105 full day 8 participants
https://day-tours-from-avignon.com/o...dream-provence
Visits 4 villages, with time for lunch.
It is a well paced day, with maps and suggested walks and restaurants, and it is an efficient way of seeing the various villages without any of the driving / parking to do.
Drive is mostly through farmland, vineyards, many orchards of stone fruit, apples, strawberry fields, melons. It is really green and bountiful, lots of fruit on trees on this early June day.
First stop - Fontaine de Vaucluse for 1 hr, a small town in a wooded valley, source of the Sorgue river is a short walk from town, a nice forested stroll with the emerald green water below, then popped into the Fontaine de Vaucluse Church, a Romanesque style church dating to the 10th century (modified in the 12th century), typically austere and dark.
The river really is this emerald green
Lush valley
The source of the Sorgue
Paper mill
Paper mill
The church
Town square area
Then on to Gordes. There’s that 5 min stop at the ‘viewpoint’ for that ‘wow’ view..
Note the stone balcony ledges on the left
And then an hour to wander the village.
It’s tiny, and overwhelmed with tourists, so a quick visit is adequate.
Then on to Roussillon, 2 hour stop, so a lunch break with a menu of the day, and a very pleasant stroll in this colourful village. So pretty. Can also walk the ‘ochre trail’
Lunch was a priority, had a starter of goat cheese and semi dried tomato, with salad, then
Pork in pastry, mashed potato, zucchini
Baked apple and ice cream
Then strolled the village, with a gazillion other tourists…
Those colours are eye popping
So pretty: lovely, harmonious colours
Last stop is Menerbes, also charming with tiny lanes and watching an unfortunate driver try to back out his expensive looking car when he realised he wasn’t going to fit in that alley.
Loving the jasmine, such a heavy scent
These vehicles perfect for alley access
This car, not so much, he did a painful reverse..
No chance he was going to fit through that ever narrowing lane
I booked this tour with Provans - the Orange tour option €105 full day 8 participants
https://day-tours-from-avignon.com/o...dream-provence
Visits 4 villages, with time for lunch.
It is a well paced day, with maps and suggested walks and restaurants, and it is an efficient way of seeing the various villages without any of the driving / parking to do.
Drive is mostly through farmland, vineyards, many orchards of stone fruit, apples, strawberry fields, melons. It is really green and bountiful, lots of fruit on trees on this early June day.
First stop - Fontaine de Vaucluse for 1 hr, a small town in a wooded valley, source of the Sorgue river is a short walk from town, a nice forested stroll with the emerald green water below, then popped into the Fontaine de Vaucluse Church, a Romanesque style church dating to the 10th century (modified in the 12th century), typically austere and dark.
The river really is this emerald green
Lush valley
The source of the Sorgue
Paper mill
Paper mill
The church
Town square area
Then on to Gordes. There’s that 5 min stop at the ‘viewpoint’ for that ‘wow’ view..
Note the stone balcony ledges on the left
And then an hour to wander the village.
It’s tiny, and overwhelmed with tourists, so a quick visit is adequate.
Then on to Roussillon, 2 hour stop, so a lunch break with a menu of the day, and a very pleasant stroll in this colourful village. So pretty. Can also walk the ‘ochre trail’
Lunch was a priority, had a starter of goat cheese and semi dried tomato, with salad, then
Pork in pastry, mashed potato, zucchini
Baked apple and ice cream
Then strolled the village, with a gazillion other tourists…
Those colours are eye popping
So pretty: lovely, harmonious colours
Last stop is Menerbes, also charming with tiny lanes and watching an unfortunate driver try to back out his expensive looking car when he realised he wasn’t going to fit in that alley.
Loving the jasmine, such a heavy scent
These vehicles perfect for alley access
This car, not so much, he did a painful reverse..
No chance he was going to fit through that ever narrowing lane
Jun 7th, 2024, 08:59 AM
#47
Join Date: Mar 2014
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Oh, my, I love your photos of your tour exploring the Luberon villages. And they bring back so many wonderful memories. Our oldest daughter lived in Provence for 10 years until they relocated to the US (Dallas area) a year ago. We visited quite frequently for 10 years, and spent a lot of time in the Luberon. Visited Gordes, Rousillon, and Menerbes, in addition to many other villages. Your photos make me homesick even though I never lived there! Don't know if or when we will return but I so love looking at your gorgeous photos.
And that baked apple with ice cream is to die for!!!! It's certainly not any ordinary baked apple!
And that baked apple with ice cream is to die for!!!! It's certainly not any ordinary baked apple!
Jun 7th, 2024, 10:00 AM
#50
I went to Avignon for the festival for about 10 years in a row, and then I inexplicably stopped, even though I loved it. That was about six years ago. But I plan to return to Avignon in 2025 and maybe get back on track.
Jun 7th, 2024, 10:40 PM
#54
Day 11: Avignon base (Tarascon and Beaucaire)
I usually add garden visits to my wishlist and here was a castle garden, so I was in.
Additionally, I was after a quieter day, so another vote for this less touristed site.
https://gardendrum.com/2017/03/04/a-...u-de-tarascon/
https://www.france-voyage.com/cities...scon-12230.htm
It’s a good fit for a visit from Avignon, a short 13 min train ride (between Avignon and Arles) - so planned a 9:33 departure to Tarascon and a 2.09 pm return from Beaucaire - time to visit castle, church, the towns.
Tarascon and Beaucaire are sister towns on opposite sides of the Rhone, not prettified for tourists, formerly busy trade centres as cargo was shipped via Marseille.
Street from station to the castle
Older and newer apartment buildings alongside
Tarascon Castle (completed in 1435) has many (unfurnished) rooms to explore, and can go to rooftop for views over both towns (I did crop out the wind farm, the quarry and the cement plant, lol)
It is fabulously restored, after a long period as a prison.
https://provence-alpes-cotedazur.com...teau-tarascon/
It is sited on the riverside, no hill to climb
It also has some prison graffiti from 1480 - now prized and protected.
the rooftop
Looking across river to Beaucaire castle ruins
Rooftops of Tarascon
Sainte Marthe church
The Rhone
Beaucaire
the garden
The tarasque https://provence-alpes-cotedazur.com...ions/tarasque/
Visited the church of Sainte Marthe nearby.
https://www.avignon-et-provence.com/...hurch-tarascon
Then wandered into the old town, the Place du Marche and the Rue des Halles, with lovely medieval arched stone arcades along both sides, and lunched outside a quiet little boulangerie.
And crossed over the bridge to Beaucaire with its canal and old town (as well as its historic hilltop castle, which I didn’t visit, I was hot and tired by then)
Crossing the bridge between Tarascon and Beaucaire
The Tarascon castle on the river
Beaucaire
Walking streets of Beaucaire
The post being delivered on foot
quiet streets, but signs of life inside homes, tv on, baby crying, people chatting
The canal
Lovely shade, much needed
Beaucaire station feels a bit unloved
This sounds interesting https://vieux-mas.com/en/?lang=en with artisans https://vieux-mas.com/en/les-artisans/
There were not many people about, but likely gets visitors from canal boats and river cruises.
After a rest in my comfy apartment, I was first to arrive at Coin Cache for dinner at 7 as they don’t take bookings, and I wasn’t going to miss out.
Only a few steps from my front door, too.
Those Google translate apps really do not work well with those chalkboard menus in cursive.
This was the menu
Anyway, fortunately the lovely waitress explained the menu, and no, spianata is not spinach! It is an Italian salami. I think I just failed French.
So, started this meal of wonders.
A little appetiser of a puffy wafer with hummus, and I don’t recall what. So interesting. Textural.
Then, my green peppers, simple, barbecued, with nice sauces.
But the main dish, was a work of art. And so delicious.
Gorgeous vegetables, pork belly - crispy and succulent, sauces.
Dessert was a strawberry mille feuille and espresso.
Wow, what a meal.
I usually add garden visits to my wishlist and here was a castle garden, so I was in.
Additionally, I was after a quieter day, so another vote for this less touristed site.
https://gardendrum.com/2017/03/04/a-...u-de-tarascon/
https://www.france-voyage.com/cities...scon-12230.htm
It’s a good fit for a visit from Avignon, a short 13 min train ride (between Avignon and Arles) - so planned a 9:33 departure to Tarascon and a 2.09 pm return from Beaucaire - time to visit castle, church, the towns.
Tarascon and Beaucaire are sister towns on opposite sides of the Rhone, not prettified for tourists, formerly busy trade centres as cargo was shipped via Marseille.
Street from station to the castle
Older and newer apartment buildings alongside
Tarascon Castle (completed in 1435) has many (unfurnished) rooms to explore, and can go to rooftop for views over both towns (I did crop out the wind farm, the quarry and the cement plant, lol)
It is fabulously restored, after a long period as a prison.
https://provence-alpes-cotedazur.com...teau-tarascon/
It is sited on the riverside, no hill to climb
It also has some prison graffiti from 1480 - now prized and protected.
the rooftop
Looking across river to Beaucaire castle ruins
Rooftops of Tarascon
Sainte Marthe church
The Rhone
Beaucaire
the garden
The tarasque https://provence-alpes-cotedazur.com...ions/tarasque/
Visited the church of Sainte Marthe nearby.
https://www.avignon-et-provence.com/...hurch-tarascon
Then wandered into the old town, the Place du Marche and the Rue des Halles, with lovely medieval arched stone arcades along both sides, and lunched outside a quiet little boulangerie.
And crossed over the bridge to Beaucaire with its canal and old town (as well as its historic hilltop castle, which I didn’t visit, I was hot and tired by then)
Crossing the bridge between Tarascon and Beaucaire
The Tarascon castle on the river
Beaucaire
Walking streets of Beaucaire
The post being delivered on foot
quiet streets, but signs of life inside homes, tv on, baby crying, people chatting
The canal
Lovely shade, much needed
Beaucaire station feels a bit unloved
This sounds interesting https://vieux-mas.com/en/?lang=en with artisans https://vieux-mas.com/en/les-artisans/
There were not many people about, but likely gets visitors from canal boats and river cruises.
After a rest in my comfy apartment, I was first to arrive at Coin Cache for dinner at 7 as they don’t take bookings, and I wasn’t going to miss out.
Only a few steps from my front door, too.
Those Google translate apps really do not work well with those chalkboard menus in cursive.
This was the menu
Anyway, fortunately the lovely waitress explained the menu, and no, spianata is not spinach! It is an Italian salami. I think I just failed French.
So, started this meal of wonders.
A little appetiser of a puffy wafer with hummus, and I don’t recall what. So interesting. Textural.
Then, my green peppers, simple, barbecued, with nice sauces.
But the main dish, was a work of art. And so delicious.
Gorgeous vegetables, pork belly - crispy and succulent, sauces.
Dessert was a strawberry mille feuille and espresso.
Wow, what a meal.
Jun 7th, 2024, 11:36 PM
#55
Join Date: Nov 2008
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After all that wonderful French cuisine you will be starving here in Switzerland!!
Loved the photos (just caught up with the Luberon and those ochre cliffs brought back wonderful memories of dinner at our hotel in Joucas with the setting sun reflecting off the cliffs!) Beaucaire - those little cabin cruisers are often for rent. We rented one for a week to explore around the Carmargue. it was great. The combination of your photos and descriptions is just wonderful!! Merci!! - et à très bienôt!!
Loved the photos (just caught up with the Luberon and those ochre cliffs brought back wonderful memories of dinner at our hotel in Joucas with the setting sun reflecting off the cliffs!) Beaucaire - those little cabin cruisers are often for rent. We rented one for a week to explore around the Carmargue. it was great. The combination of your photos and descriptions is just wonderful!! Merci!! - et à très bienôt!!
Jun 8th, 2024, 07:42 AM
#59
I just enjoyed getting caught up on your report. Wow! Your photos and details are great. Definitely taking notes. I love having an unexpected delicious meal. Good for you for traveling solo. I have done it a couple of times when my dh didn’t want to and am happy I did.
Jun 9th, 2024, 11:12 AM
#60
Day 12: Avignon
Slow start to the day, then to les Halles food market a 2 minute walk away.
The local Carrefour has been a good option for my breakfast needs, but the market is outstanding.
Really good variety of the usual fresh produce, bakery items, incredible butcher (my DH would love to bbq some of their offerings), some very regional produce and ready to go meals.
I was tempted by the terrines, the baked eggplant and ratatouille, and a lot else, but ended up with some fresh fruit and veg, a baguette, a roast chicken, and a raspberry tart. I have always loved the vibe at food markets, the respect and value of fresh produce, locals catching up at the bar, queuing at their favourite bread store, and now I have lunch and dinner supplies
Wrapped like a gift
Delicious. No custard in this one.
I have wandered the Avignon streets early and late - in between my daytrips, but this day was about staying local.
I wandered to the Rue de Teinturiers runs along the canal previously used for spinning and dyeing industry, a few old waterwheels remain.
Maison du IV de Chiffre is one of the very oldest homes in Avignon, built in 1493.
And the 700 year old city walls.
wanderings
Inside the walls
Ugly hotel built next to the Palace of the Popes
Ugh…tight parking
Perfect car for these streets
Tight alleys
Traffic fun
One of the major streets in the old town
Free electric bus within the old city
Synagogue
Visited the enormous Palace of the Popes (largest gothic palace in Europe), legacy of the Popes that resided in Avignon instead of Rome from 1309-1377 (when they returned to Rome). There are 2 palaces, the ‘old’ and the ‘new’, built over 20 years and merged into one, now owned by the city of Avignon.
I went late afternoon, hoping the crowds might have thinned out, and it was fine.
25 unfurnished rooms to visit, you are provided with an iPad to recreate the scene as it was lived in.
Enormous rooms
iPad to visualise rooms as they were
Church of St Agricol, shops built in front of it.
Not very obvious entry
Slow start to the day, then to les Halles food market a 2 minute walk away.
The local Carrefour has been a good option for my breakfast needs, but the market is outstanding.
Really good variety of the usual fresh produce, bakery items, incredible butcher (my DH would love to bbq some of their offerings), some very regional produce and ready to go meals.
I was tempted by the terrines, the baked eggplant and ratatouille, and a lot else, but ended up with some fresh fruit and veg, a baguette, a roast chicken, and a raspberry tart. I have always loved the vibe at food markets, the respect and value of fresh produce, locals catching up at the bar, queuing at their favourite bread store, and now I have lunch and dinner supplies
Wrapped like a gift
Delicious. No custard in this one.
I have wandered the Avignon streets early and late - in between my daytrips, but this day was about staying local.
I wandered to the Rue de Teinturiers runs along the canal previously used for spinning and dyeing industry, a few old waterwheels remain.
Maison du IV de Chiffre is one of the very oldest homes in Avignon, built in 1493.
And the 700 year old city walls.
wanderings
Inside the walls
Ugly hotel built next to the Palace of the Popes
Ugh…tight parking
Perfect car for these streets
Tight alleys
Traffic fun
One of the major streets in the old town
Free electric bus within the old city
Synagogue
Visited the enormous Palace of the Popes (largest gothic palace in Europe), legacy of the Popes that resided in Avignon instead of Rome from 1309-1377 (when they returned to Rome). There are 2 palaces, the ‘old’ and the ‘new’, built over 20 years and merged into one, now owned by the city of Avignon.
I went late afternoon, hoping the crowds might have thinned out, and it was fine.
25 unfurnished rooms to visit, you are provided with an iPad to recreate the scene as it was lived in.
Enormous rooms
iPad to visualise rooms as they were
Church of St Agricol, shops built in front of it.
Not very obvious entry
