A Trip to Italy...or, I never met a Limoncello I didn't like!
Oct 6th, 2005, 10:41 AM
#22
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I am thoroughly enjoying your report.
Up to this point, which city/town do you consider to have been the most strenuous?
Also, were you comfortable with the pace of the tours? Did they take into consideration the fact that you might have to slow down here and there?
I am grateful for the detail in your reports. Thank you.
Up to this point, which city/town do you consider to have been the most strenuous?
Also, were you comfortable with the pace of the tours? Did they take into consideration the fact that you might have to slow down here and there?
I am grateful for the detail in your reports. Thank you.
Oct 6th, 2005, 10:45 AM
#23
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Wonderful trip report, I'm really enjoying it.
I've come to realise that (apart from sometimes at dinner) I get the most out of travelling alone, and it's so nice to read your experiences and be assured that when I get the chance I will have a great time too.
But you are not finished yet, and I am eagerly awaiting the rest......
I've come to realise that (apart from sometimes at dinner) I get the most out of travelling alone, and it's so nice to read your experiences and be assured that when I get the chance I will have a great time too.
But you are not finished yet, and I am eagerly awaiting the rest......
Oct 6th, 2005, 11:10 AM
#24
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Great report. Your last dinner mentioned above reminds me of our recent trip to Florence with family when none of the 3 restaurants we asked our hotel to reserve had a record of our reservation. Like you, the hotel insisted that the reservation was made. From now on, we'll make our own.
Oct 6th, 2005, 04:57 PM
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I'm glad you're all enjoying the report. cw, fortunately, my husband understood my NEED to go to Italy! (Some things, you need to do for your soul...)
Simone, I think Venice was probably the most strenuous, because in addition to the churches, scuolas and museums all having a LOT of stairs, there are all the stairs on each bridge (although some have a lot more than others--the Rialto Bridge has over 55 steps on each side). Also, you can't get a taxi right to your hotel door unless you're on a canal with their own dock, and then you'd have to take the expensive water taxi. That said, I certainly wouldn't hesitate to go back to Venice!
As far as the pace of the tours, are you talking about the ones with hillandroads? He is a private driver/tour guide, so I could do whatever I wanted. I had set up the itinerary myself, and if I decided to skip something on the itinerary, I could do so at the drop of a hat. Since I was paying by the hour, if the tour ended up a little shorter or longer than initally planned, that would be reflected in the price and I knew that ahead of time. In each case, we didn't actually know exactly how long it would take to do what was planned. One day was a little shorter than planned and I paid less accordingly. All that aside, both Alioscia and Luca were very considerate, perfectly willing to walk slow when I needed to and go back and get the car wherever it was, then come and get me. I highly recommend them!
julia, don't let the worry of eating dinner alone keep you from travelling alone!
Brian, I agree, I would never leave it up to the hotel to make a reservation for me, especially one that was important to me. This was actually the only one I asked any hotel to make for me and I won't do it again!
More to come...
Simone, I think Venice was probably the most strenuous, because in addition to the churches, scuolas and museums all having a LOT of stairs, there are all the stairs on each bridge (although some have a lot more than others--the Rialto Bridge has over 55 steps on each side). Also, you can't get a taxi right to your hotel door unless you're on a canal with their own dock, and then you'd have to take the expensive water taxi. That said, I certainly wouldn't hesitate to go back to Venice!
As far as the pace of the tours, are you talking about the ones with hillandroads? He is a private driver/tour guide, so I could do whatever I wanted. I had set up the itinerary myself, and if I decided to skip something on the itinerary, I could do so at the drop of a hat. Since I was paying by the hour, if the tour ended up a little shorter or longer than initally planned, that would be reflected in the price and I knew that ahead of time. In each case, we didn't actually know exactly how long it would take to do what was planned. One day was a little shorter than planned and I paid less accordingly. All that aside, both Alioscia and Luca were very considerate, perfectly willing to walk slow when I needed to and go back and get the car wherever it was, then come and get me. I highly recommend them!
julia, don't let the worry of eating dinner alone keep you from travelling alone!
Brian, I agree, I would never leave it up to the hotel to make a reservation for me, especially one that was important to me. This was actually the only one I asked any hotel to make for me and I won't do it again!
More to come...
Oct 6th, 2005, 06:10 PM
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SusanP, along with so many others I so enjoyed your beautiful trip report. I have never taken a private tour, it sounds like a luxery. I always was with my husband, or now with my friends. And so consequently never ever had the luxery of completely choosing where I wanted to go and how long I wanted to stay etc. Thank you for sharing your trip with us. Wishing you more beautiful trips.
Oct 6th, 2005, 07:28 PM
#28
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Here's some more...
The next morning, Luca picks me up in Siena for the next leg of my trip. Our first destination is Monte Oliveto Maggiore, but we make a few stops on the way. Luca tells me about how no new houses can be built in Tuscany, or at least this area of Tuscany, you can only restore houses that are already there. The land is to be kept for agriculture. We stop on the road up to the very tiny town of Mucigliani, where he shows me the difference between part of the town that has been restored and the rest that is waiting to be restored. A huge difference!
Luca wants to get a bite to eat and an expresso, so we next stop in another very small town, Asciano. I enjoy seeing the 12th C church there, and we go to the town square so he can go to a small café. I had breakfast before we left, so I go around to take a few pictures while I’m waiting for him. The town square is very small, and I’m sure I’m the only American in town! On the way out of town, we pass a bunch of buses bringing in musicians for a band festival of some kind. Gee, I should have brought my flute!
Next we stop in Chiusure. Where we stop is actually a retirement home. I’m thinking that if you have to go to a retirement home, this is the place to be. The views are wonderful, including one of Monte Oliveto Maggiore, where we’re going next. These are obviously towns that you couldn’t get to without a car, and I suspect bus wouldn’t be much easier, especially for Mucigliani.
We have an interesting time at Monte Oliveto Maggiore. I would love to know what’s in all those books in their library and I wonder if anyone besides the monks has access to them. As I suspected, Luca says that it’s something you have to request permission for. Guess you have to be a scholar to check them out. I buy some orange honey in their gift shop.
We drive on to Montalcino and park near the castle at the top of the town. We stop for lunch at Osteria de Porta al Cassero. I didn’t write down the street, but it’s straight down from the castle, not very far down. Luca says they have the best wild boar here, so of course that’s what I order. It comes with white beans and is absolutely delicious (better than what I had in Florence at Osteria Cinghiale de Bianco). I decide I want wine with it, and he also recommends the Rosso di Montalcino (Brunnelo’s little brother, aged less time), and I love it. I will have this several more times on the trip. Again, I offer to pay for his lunch, but he refuses. Mine is 10E.
We walk down the hill of Montalcino. I’m surprised, since it’s Sunday, that a lot of the shops are open. I take a lot of pictures of steep streets and doors (I like pictures of architectural details). At the bottom, there is a lovely little park with wonderful flowers. Luca suggests that if I want, I can wait here while he climbs back up the hill to get the car, and he will come back and pick me up. Sounds good to me! It’s a nice place to wait for him. Although I might have gone inside the castle if I’d walked back up the hill, I don’t mind missing that at all! We do stop at the top of town for a few pictures.
On to Sant’Antimo Abbey. I mention that I’d heard there was a spot to take a picture of it from the distance. Luca assures me we can do this. We stop at one point, and then he remembers picking up someone up the hill where there might be another great view. We drive up through vineyards to a house. A lady comes out and he explains why we are up there. She is Canadian and has some friends visiting and doesn’t mind at all if I take pictures. Turns out we can’t see Sant’Antimo from there, but we get a good spot on the way down. We have timed our visit to Sant’Antimo for the 2:45 pm Gregorian Chants. I enjoy this very much and highly recommend it, but even if you can’t be there for the chants, it’s definitely something not to be missed.
We had planned to add San Quirico d’Orcia to the itinerary if there were time. There is time, but I have to admit I’m tired. Luca suggests that we can just drive through the town if I like, and this seems like a good idea. I wouldn’t mind going back there sometime, but enjoy what I do see just driving through. We end up in Pienza, where Luca drops me off at my hotel. When choosing a place in Tuscany for a three-night stay, I chose Pienza for several reasons, not the least of which is that it’s fairly flat! (At least in the town itself.) Also, good restaurants, a nice small town easy to get around, good bus connections.
I’m staying at Albergo Rutiliano. I took a bit of a gamble on this, as I could only find one report on it, although that report was very positive (can’t remember if it was on tripadvisor or somewhere else). It was in the town (although not inside the old walls), had an elevator, and I couldn’t resist the price of 50E per night for a single room with ensuite bath and buffet breakfast. Plus, the communication from them was excellent. The elevator only goes to the first floor, where there are four rooms, and they assure me that I can be guaranteed one of those four rooms.
I think this is a real gem! It’s only about a 5-minute walk to the main gate (at my slow walk, much quicker for most people) and another 5 minutes to the center of town where the church is in the main square. The bus stop to go to other towns is less than 2 blocks away. I have a nice big, airy room with double bed (two twins pushed together, as usual), decent size bath with a shower bigger than in Venice or Florence, again with good water pressure and plenty of hot water. The hotel also has a lovely pool and it’s own parking. Silvia at the desk is extremely helpful. I want to eat at Buca della Fate. Turns out it’s owned by the same people as the hotel, so she calls and makes me a reservation for tonight. I also want to eat at Latte de Luna. Unfortunately they’re completely booked for two of the nights I’m staying there and closed the third. Oh well, maybe next time. I will mention that I also had Il Prato on my list, and she strongly recommends that I not go there. She says the food is only OK and the service is terrible, that some of her guests who have gone there recently were very disappointed. I’m willing to follow her recommendation and don’t make a reservation there. She gives me a great booklet with all the things to see in Pienza and a map. I’m sure this is also available at the tourist information center, just outside the main gate. She gives me another brochure that shows the same map but includes the location and telephone numbers of all the restaurants in town. Very convenient!
That evening I walk in to Buca della Fate and enjoy a nice dinner. The selection of Tuscan meats with Pecorino cheese is good, as well as the pork chop and tomatoes. They bring around a dessert cart, and the Tiramisu looks too good to pass up. Add some Limoncello, and what more could you want?!
I had planned to go to Montepulciano the next day (easy bus connections to get there). But I’m tired by this time and have Rome to come, which I figure will be hectic, so I do something most Fodorites would never consider…I decide to spend two whole days in Pienza, just relaxing and enjoying the town. Most people say that Pienza is good for a two-hour stop, but I’m not sure how you can really see everything and appreciate the town in that time. I love Pienza! I thoroughly enjoy spending two days there.
My first whole day in Pienza is a Monday, and I’m surprised (due to reports on Fodor’s) that all the shops are open. I think they’re pretty much open every day. They do all close for the siesta, generally from around 1:00 or 1:30 until 3:00 or 3:30. The church on the main square is also open on Monday, but the Palazzo Piccolomini (Pope’s house—Pius II, who designed the town) and Church of San Fransesco are closed. There is a wonderful walking path along the south side of the town wall with a fabulous view of the Tuscan countryside. What better way to spend your time in a Tuscan town than sitting in the sun with that view, enjoying a gelato, maybe reading a little? Heaven! I highly recommend doing this instead of thinking you absolutely have to be moving every minute in Tuscany in order to see as many towns as possible!
The first day, between seeing the church and relaxing on that walking trail or in the town square, I go to Osteria Sette Vino in Piazza di Spagna for lunch. This is down the street directly opposite the church and has lovely flowers overflowing the wrought iron balconies and outside tables. Lovely spot! I get there late. The waiter recommends the Tuscan bean soup or the Pecorino cheese with bacon. I order the cheese and ¼ litre of wine (my new favorite Rosso di Montalcino!). For some reason, I think this is going to be a bruschetta, on bread, but it’s not. Just a slab of Pecorino grilled with bacon. To die for! OK, I was going to take some Pecorino home, but maybe I need to take more than planned! I ask the waiter how long they cook it, and he motions 3 minutes per side. There are these little green ceramic bowls on the table with the name of the restaurant. I’m thinking how cute one would look next to my white boar pitcher from Osteria Cinghiale Bianco in Florence, so I ask the waiter if they sell them. He says he’s sorry, but they don’t. A couple of minutes later, he comes out with a brochure to show me the store that sells them and how to get there, but I explain that I wanted one with the restaurant’s name on it. He apologizes again, they’re not for sale. A few minutes later, he brings out my bill. It’s on a ceramic plate with the restaurant’s name on it, and he says it’s for me to keep! I am delighted! I’m not sure why he can give me the plate but can’t even sell me the bowl, but I don’t argue. I give him a nice tip and tell him I’ll see him tomorrow. He smiles and nods his head in agreement. A lovely lunch!
Pienza is a great town for shopping. Plenty of pottery, Pecorino cheese, olive wood spoons, linens and tapestry stuff. I do some shopping inbetween seeing the historical sights and relaxing on the walking path. That evening, I go to Dal Falco for dinner, just down the street from the hotel, just outside the main gate. The food is very good, including Pecorino on the coals, just a slab of the cheese cooked on the grill for a few minutes on each side. There is a group from New Zealand on a walking tour at the next table. One of the couples leaves their camera, and when they come back, the woman starts talking to me. They have walked from Montepulciano today, and it was too much for some of their group, as it was very hot (they all seem to be in their 60’s, I have to admire them for being able to do that). At this restaurant, instead of sweet wine or Limoncello, they bring you Amaro Del Falco with these wonderful cookies with sliced almonds in them to dip in the Amaro. The next day, I try to find these cookies in the shops, but don’t have any luck. I buy another kind instead! The drink is actually Amaro with herbs and is delicious. Two courses, ½ litre of wine, 30E.
After reading more of my little book on Pienza, I want to go the The Hermitage, or Pieve di Corsignano, some of which dates back to the 11th C. Maybe I should have taken a taxi! It’s outside of town, a pretty good walk, especially for me, all downhill. It’s a very interesting place (note the unbelievably narrow spiral staircase down under the sanctuary to the right of the altar where I guess the hermit monks lived) and certainly not something you would get to in a two-hour visit to Pienza! I really enjoy this, despite the walk back up that hill!
Later I also visit the Pope’s House and the Church of San Francesco, 13th C, one of the oldest Franciscan buildings in Italy and the only thing remaining of the ancient hamlet of Corsignano (Pienza’s former name). This place has the most amazing Nativity Scene I’ve ever seen. Large white figures set in the side of a rocky hill, with the Holy Family in a cave and many Shepherds plus the Wise Men all set around the surrounding cliffs. Don’t miss this!
I return to Osteria Sette de Vino for lunch and this time try the Tuscan Bean Soup and wine. The soup has the white beans and large bread chunks, 11.50E. It is wonderful. This time I decide to order ½ litre of wine, as I want to just sit there a while and relax and enjoy the nice square. I have to say that the ¼ litre the day before was about 1-1/2 glass. The ½ litre is more like 4-5 glasses! I don’t know if that’s normal or if it’s because the waiter recognizes me from the day before and knows I’m a repeat customer. In Italy, if you go back the second time, you’re an old friend! It’s a beautiful hot, sunny day, so I just sit there and enjoy…
The Borgia Palace is also open now (also closed Monday) and holds the Diocesan Museum, but I just don’t feel like a museum after that great lunch, so I don’t make it there. Instead, I go back to the walking path and enjoy some more of that great view.
That evening, I go to Ristorante La Pergola for dinner, directly across the street from my hotel. I enjoy a Pecorino flan on salad and Rissoto with saffron and lamb ragout, with wine and water, 22E. I’m sorry to leave Pienza but am off to Rome tomorrow.
The next morning, Luca picks me up in Siena for the next leg of my trip. Our first destination is Monte Oliveto Maggiore, but we make a few stops on the way. Luca tells me about how no new houses can be built in Tuscany, or at least this area of Tuscany, you can only restore houses that are already there. The land is to be kept for agriculture. We stop on the road up to the very tiny town of Mucigliani, where he shows me the difference between part of the town that has been restored and the rest that is waiting to be restored. A huge difference!
Luca wants to get a bite to eat and an expresso, so we next stop in another very small town, Asciano. I enjoy seeing the 12th C church there, and we go to the town square so he can go to a small café. I had breakfast before we left, so I go around to take a few pictures while I’m waiting for him. The town square is very small, and I’m sure I’m the only American in town! On the way out of town, we pass a bunch of buses bringing in musicians for a band festival of some kind. Gee, I should have brought my flute!
Next we stop in Chiusure. Where we stop is actually a retirement home. I’m thinking that if you have to go to a retirement home, this is the place to be. The views are wonderful, including one of Monte Oliveto Maggiore, where we’re going next. These are obviously towns that you couldn’t get to without a car, and I suspect bus wouldn’t be much easier, especially for Mucigliani.
We have an interesting time at Monte Oliveto Maggiore. I would love to know what’s in all those books in their library and I wonder if anyone besides the monks has access to them. As I suspected, Luca says that it’s something you have to request permission for. Guess you have to be a scholar to check them out. I buy some orange honey in their gift shop.
We drive on to Montalcino and park near the castle at the top of the town. We stop for lunch at Osteria de Porta al Cassero. I didn’t write down the street, but it’s straight down from the castle, not very far down. Luca says they have the best wild boar here, so of course that’s what I order. It comes with white beans and is absolutely delicious (better than what I had in Florence at Osteria Cinghiale de Bianco). I decide I want wine with it, and he also recommends the Rosso di Montalcino (Brunnelo’s little brother, aged less time), and I love it. I will have this several more times on the trip. Again, I offer to pay for his lunch, but he refuses. Mine is 10E.
We walk down the hill of Montalcino. I’m surprised, since it’s Sunday, that a lot of the shops are open. I take a lot of pictures of steep streets and doors (I like pictures of architectural details). At the bottom, there is a lovely little park with wonderful flowers. Luca suggests that if I want, I can wait here while he climbs back up the hill to get the car, and he will come back and pick me up. Sounds good to me! It’s a nice place to wait for him. Although I might have gone inside the castle if I’d walked back up the hill, I don’t mind missing that at all! We do stop at the top of town for a few pictures.
On to Sant’Antimo Abbey. I mention that I’d heard there was a spot to take a picture of it from the distance. Luca assures me we can do this. We stop at one point, and then he remembers picking up someone up the hill where there might be another great view. We drive up through vineyards to a house. A lady comes out and he explains why we are up there. She is Canadian and has some friends visiting and doesn’t mind at all if I take pictures. Turns out we can’t see Sant’Antimo from there, but we get a good spot on the way down. We have timed our visit to Sant’Antimo for the 2:45 pm Gregorian Chants. I enjoy this very much and highly recommend it, but even if you can’t be there for the chants, it’s definitely something not to be missed.
We had planned to add San Quirico d’Orcia to the itinerary if there were time. There is time, but I have to admit I’m tired. Luca suggests that we can just drive through the town if I like, and this seems like a good idea. I wouldn’t mind going back there sometime, but enjoy what I do see just driving through. We end up in Pienza, where Luca drops me off at my hotel. When choosing a place in Tuscany for a three-night stay, I chose Pienza for several reasons, not the least of which is that it’s fairly flat! (At least in the town itself.) Also, good restaurants, a nice small town easy to get around, good bus connections.
I’m staying at Albergo Rutiliano. I took a bit of a gamble on this, as I could only find one report on it, although that report was very positive (can’t remember if it was on tripadvisor or somewhere else). It was in the town (although not inside the old walls), had an elevator, and I couldn’t resist the price of 50E per night for a single room with ensuite bath and buffet breakfast. Plus, the communication from them was excellent. The elevator only goes to the first floor, where there are four rooms, and they assure me that I can be guaranteed one of those four rooms.
I think this is a real gem! It’s only about a 5-minute walk to the main gate (at my slow walk, much quicker for most people) and another 5 minutes to the center of town where the church is in the main square. The bus stop to go to other towns is less than 2 blocks away. I have a nice big, airy room with double bed (two twins pushed together, as usual), decent size bath with a shower bigger than in Venice or Florence, again with good water pressure and plenty of hot water. The hotel also has a lovely pool and it’s own parking. Silvia at the desk is extremely helpful. I want to eat at Buca della Fate. Turns out it’s owned by the same people as the hotel, so she calls and makes me a reservation for tonight. I also want to eat at Latte de Luna. Unfortunately they’re completely booked for two of the nights I’m staying there and closed the third. Oh well, maybe next time. I will mention that I also had Il Prato on my list, and she strongly recommends that I not go there. She says the food is only OK and the service is terrible, that some of her guests who have gone there recently were very disappointed. I’m willing to follow her recommendation and don’t make a reservation there. She gives me a great booklet with all the things to see in Pienza and a map. I’m sure this is also available at the tourist information center, just outside the main gate. She gives me another brochure that shows the same map but includes the location and telephone numbers of all the restaurants in town. Very convenient!
That evening I walk in to Buca della Fate and enjoy a nice dinner. The selection of Tuscan meats with Pecorino cheese is good, as well as the pork chop and tomatoes. They bring around a dessert cart, and the Tiramisu looks too good to pass up. Add some Limoncello, and what more could you want?!
I had planned to go to Montepulciano the next day (easy bus connections to get there). But I’m tired by this time and have Rome to come, which I figure will be hectic, so I do something most Fodorites would never consider…I decide to spend two whole days in Pienza, just relaxing and enjoying the town. Most people say that Pienza is good for a two-hour stop, but I’m not sure how you can really see everything and appreciate the town in that time. I love Pienza! I thoroughly enjoy spending two days there.
My first whole day in Pienza is a Monday, and I’m surprised (due to reports on Fodor’s) that all the shops are open. I think they’re pretty much open every day. They do all close for the siesta, generally from around 1:00 or 1:30 until 3:00 or 3:30. The church on the main square is also open on Monday, but the Palazzo Piccolomini (Pope’s house—Pius II, who designed the town) and Church of San Fransesco are closed. There is a wonderful walking path along the south side of the town wall with a fabulous view of the Tuscan countryside. What better way to spend your time in a Tuscan town than sitting in the sun with that view, enjoying a gelato, maybe reading a little? Heaven! I highly recommend doing this instead of thinking you absolutely have to be moving every minute in Tuscany in order to see as many towns as possible!
The first day, between seeing the church and relaxing on that walking trail or in the town square, I go to Osteria Sette Vino in Piazza di Spagna for lunch. This is down the street directly opposite the church and has lovely flowers overflowing the wrought iron balconies and outside tables. Lovely spot! I get there late. The waiter recommends the Tuscan bean soup or the Pecorino cheese with bacon. I order the cheese and ¼ litre of wine (my new favorite Rosso di Montalcino!). For some reason, I think this is going to be a bruschetta, on bread, but it’s not. Just a slab of Pecorino grilled with bacon. To die for! OK, I was going to take some Pecorino home, but maybe I need to take more than planned! I ask the waiter how long they cook it, and he motions 3 minutes per side. There are these little green ceramic bowls on the table with the name of the restaurant. I’m thinking how cute one would look next to my white boar pitcher from Osteria Cinghiale Bianco in Florence, so I ask the waiter if they sell them. He says he’s sorry, but they don’t. A couple of minutes later, he comes out with a brochure to show me the store that sells them and how to get there, but I explain that I wanted one with the restaurant’s name on it. He apologizes again, they’re not for sale. A few minutes later, he brings out my bill. It’s on a ceramic plate with the restaurant’s name on it, and he says it’s for me to keep! I am delighted! I’m not sure why he can give me the plate but can’t even sell me the bowl, but I don’t argue. I give him a nice tip and tell him I’ll see him tomorrow. He smiles and nods his head in agreement. A lovely lunch!
Pienza is a great town for shopping. Plenty of pottery, Pecorino cheese, olive wood spoons, linens and tapestry stuff. I do some shopping inbetween seeing the historical sights and relaxing on the walking path. That evening, I go to Dal Falco for dinner, just down the street from the hotel, just outside the main gate. The food is very good, including Pecorino on the coals, just a slab of the cheese cooked on the grill for a few minutes on each side. There is a group from New Zealand on a walking tour at the next table. One of the couples leaves their camera, and when they come back, the woman starts talking to me. They have walked from Montepulciano today, and it was too much for some of their group, as it was very hot (they all seem to be in their 60’s, I have to admire them for being able to do that). At this restaurant, instead of sweet wine or Limoncello, they bring you Amaro Del Falco with these wonderful cookies with sliced almonds in them to dip in the Amaro. The next day, I try to find these cookies in the shops, but don’t have any luck. I buy another kind instead! The drink is actually Amaro with herbs and is delicious. Two courses, ½ litre of wine, 30E.
After reading more of my little book on Pienza, I want to go the The Hermitage, or Pieve di Corsignano, some of which dates back to the 11th C. Maybe I should have taken a taxi! It’s outside of town, a pretty good walk, especially for me, all downhill. It’s a very interesting place (note the unbelievably narrow spiral staircase down under the sanctuary to the right of the altar where I guess the hermit monks lived) and certainly not something you would get to in a two-hour visit to Pienza! I really enjoy this, despite the walk back up that hill!
Later I also visit the Pope’s House and the Church of San Francesco, 13th C, one of the oldest Franciscan buildings in Italy and the only thing remaining of the ancient hamlet of Corsignano (Pienza’s former name). This place has the most amazing Nativity Scene I’ve ever seen. Large white figures set in the side of a rocky hill, with the Holy Family in a cave and many Shepherds plus the Wise Men all set around the surrounding cliffs. Don’t miss this!
I return to Osteria Sette de Vino for lunch and this time try the Tuscan Bean Soup and wine. The soup has the white beans and large bread chunks, 11.50E. It is wonderful. This time I decide to order ½ litre of wine, as I want to just sit there a while and relax and enjoy the nice square. I have to say that the ¼ litre the day before was about 1-1/2 glass. The ½ litre is more like 4-5 glasses! I don’t know if that’s normal or if it’s because the waiter recognizes me from the day before and knows I’m a repeat customer. In Italy, if you go back the second time, you’re an old friend! It’s a beautiful hot, sunny day, so I just sit there and enjoy…
The Borgia Palace is also open now (also closed Monday) and holds the Diocesan Museum, but I just don’t feel like a museum after that great lunch, so I don’t make it there. Instead, I go back to the walking path and enjoy some more of that great view.
That evening, I go to Ristorante La Pergola for dinner, directly across the street from my hotel. I enjoy a Pecorino flan on salad and Rissoto with saffron and lamb ragout, with wine and water, 22E. I’m sorry to leave Pienza but am off to Rome tomorrow.
Oct 6th, 2005, 07:43 PM
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And LoveItaly, glad you're enjoying the report. You really do need to go to Italy when you can do exactly what you want to do. I realize it's nice to visit friends there, but is there something you would like to do that none of them ever wants to do? I highly recommend doing it! That is the biggest advantage of traveling solo, you can do whatever you please!
Oct 6th, 2005, 08:33 PM
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Susan,
Love the account of your time in Pienza. It is so nice to slow down and really explore one place.
It is terrific that you went and that your husband knew and accepted your need to go. It means you have a terrific relationship.
You have lots of good advice and I'm looking forward to Romw.
cw
Love the account of your time in Pienza. It is so nice to slow down and really explore one place.
It is terrific that you went and that your husband knew and accepted your need to go. It means you have a terrific relationship.
You have lots of good advice and I'm looking forward to Romw.
cw
Oct 6th, 2005, 08:51 PM
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Hello SusanP, yes dear one you are correct. Now don't get me wrong, with all my beautiful friends in Italy and their enthusiam in taking me to places that most people never know about or go to I am so fortunate and for sure I am not complaining. And my dear late husband and I (always with a rental car) went to places that are never mentioned here on Fodors. So I consider myself very blessed to have been to so many "out of the way places in Italy".
Maybe I am tired, Susan, I don't know. But the thought of going to Italy on my own, and spending time in Italy on my own has been something I have been thinking about. But I also would love to see all my dear friends while I am there also, I do love them so, and I sure can't afford to go back to Italy every time I turn around unfortunatly.
Sooo, I have to figure out all of this. Go to Italy, spend time on my own, and then go and visit my dear friends etc. That I guess would be the best solution.
BTW, how good is your Italian?? Mine is terrible although I do manage when I am there. And did understand the Italian language when I was little. Are you fluent in Italian? I would be interested in that if you don't mind my asking. Thank you again for such a beautiful and interesting report. You make me want to go to the airport right this moment and take the next plane to beautiful Italy.
Maybe I am tired, Susan, I don't know. But the thought of going to Italy on my own, and spending time in Italy on my own has been something I have been thinking about. But I also would love to see all my dear friends while I am there also, I do love them so, and I sure can't afford to go back to Italy every time I turn around unfortunatly.
Sooo, I have to figure out all of this. Go to Italy, spend time on my own, and then go and visit my dear friends etc. That I guess would be the best solution.
BTW, how good is your Italian?? Mine is terrible although I do manage when I am there. And did understand the Italian language when I was little. Are you fluent in Italian? I would be interested in that if you don't mind my asking. Thank you again for such a beautiful and interesting report. You make me want to go to the airport right this moment and take the next plane to beautiful Italy.
Oct 7th, 2005, 07:49 AM
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cw, Yes, a lot of husbands might not like their wife going alone. And I thoroughly enjoyed taking it easy in Pienza!
LoveItaly, I think your idea of going for a while on your own and then moving on to stay with friends sounds like a good plan. I am not at all fluent in Italian, I know very little. I had a brief tape program of things a tourist might need to know that I worked on before leaving, but my grasp of the language was minimal. I really didn't have any problem. I always asked politely in Italian if someone spoke English and they almost always did. And of course, I knew the really important things, like how to order 1/2 litre of the house red wine!
LoveItaly, I think your idea of going for a while on your own and then moving on to stay with friends sounds like a good plan. I am not at all fluent in Italian, I know very little. I had a brief tape program of things a tourist might need to know that I worked on before leaving, but my grasp of the language was minimal. I really didn't have any problem. I always asked politely in Italian if someone spoke English and they almost always did. And of course, I knew the really important things, like how to order 1/2 litre of the house red wine!
Oct 7th, 2005, 11:53 AM
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cdaunis, After you get to www.trenitalia.com, click on English, then enter your starting point (Venice) and destination (Florence) and enter the day and time you're interested in. It will bring up the trains leaving around the time you've entered. Choose the one you want and click on "Buy" and it will take you right through the process. I think the ticketless option is already checked, so you would have to change it if you wanted to pick up the tickets. However, ticketless is the way to go. You don't have to stamp your ticket or anything, just get on the train, find your seat, and when the conductor comes around you give him your confirmation and he will give you a receipt. Very easy!
Oct 8th, 2005, 03:31 PM
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Hello again SusanP, can one catch a bad cold over the computer? I have one also! Had a bit of a one, felt great yesterday but woke up this morning feeling so terrible.
Take care of yourself and don't worry about the balance of your trip report until you are feeling up to it.
Susan, thank you for your comments to me and you are absolutely correct. I am in the process of working on a trip...no details worked out yet but think it will be wonderful.
Take good care of yourself and get well soon.
Take care of yourself and don't worry about the balance of your trip report until you are feeling up to it.
Susan, thank you for your comments to me and you are absolutely correct. I am in the process of working on a trip...no details worked out yet but think it will be wonderful.
Take good care of yourself and get well soon.
