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Advice on Scotland trip, Mull to Skye to Western Islands to Highlands to Edinburgh (more or less)...

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Advice on Scotland trip, Mull to Skye to Western Islands to Highlands to Edinburgh (more or less)...

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Old Jan 28th, 2002, 06:03 PM
  #1  
Cindy
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Advice on Scotland trip, Mull to Skye to Western Islands to Highlands to Edinburgh (more or less)...

First let me thank Sheila, Frank, Tony and others for all the great advice that I've already read on this site! <BR><BR>I am planning to be in Scotland with my family (husband, two boys, 6 and 11) for one month, mid-July to mid-August. We will begin our trip with a week in Iona with the Iona Community. We'll be driving in from London, spending one night somewhere on the way, and perhaps another night close to Oban. That's the beginning of the trip. I'd like to end the trip with three days in Edinburgh (during the Festival, lucky us!). And I would really, really appreciate your help with filling in the other 2 and a half weeks. The places I definitely want to go include Skye (am trying to find out more information about staying at the lighthouse at Neist Point -- has anyone done this?) for a couple of days, and then on to Harris and Lewis for a few days, North and South Uist for a few days (or more). I am also interested in trying to stay at the lighthouse at Rudha Reidh, but they won't take us unless they don't fill up with hikers. And of course, we want to see Loch Ness, and to stay in some really castley-looking castles (secret passages and dungeons are good). What I love the most is the ocean, I don't care how cold it is. My husband loves the mountains, and my boys love swimming pools. Now, given all that, can you help me with an itinerary that would take us from Mull through Skye to the Outer Hebrides (I have all the ferry info already), and then back through the most beautiful places of all to Edinburgh? A couple of questions, and then I'll shut up: Sheila, you said in one of your posts that Nethy Bridge is one of your favorites. I found it on the map, but haven't seen anything else about it. Can you fill me in? Also, I was thinking that the best way to go to Edinburgh would be around the coast (given how much I love the ocean), but all these wonderful places that everyone is listing seem to be inland, in-between Skye and Edinburgh -- can someone comment on that? Okay, I know I'm asking a whole heck of a lot, and will be more than happy with any little bits and pieces that anyone can give! Can't wait to see Scotland! (Oh, and am not interested in whiskey or golf. And just one more thing: my husband wants to dive. Where would the best places for that be?)
 
Old Jan 28th, 2002, 07:57 PM
  #2  
tttt
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t
 
Old Jan 29th, 2002, 12:55 AM
  #3  
Sheila
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We will begin our trip with a week in Iona with the Iona Community. We'll be driving in from London, spending one night somewhere on the way, and perhaps another night close to Oban. That's the beginning of the trip. I'd like to end the trip with three days in Edinburgh (during the Festival, lucky us!). And I would really, really appreciate your help with filling in the other 2 and a half weeks. The places I definitely want to go include Skye (am trying to find out more information about staying at the lighthouse at Neist Point -- has anyone done this?) for a couple of days, and then on to Harris and Lewis for a few days, North and South Uist for a few days (or more). I am also interested in trying to stay at the lighthouse at Rudha Reidh, but they won't take us unless they don't fill up with hikers. And of course, we want to see Loch Ness, and to stay in some really castley-looking castles (secret passages and dungeons are good). What I love the most is the ocean, I don't care how cold it is. My husband loves the mountains, and my boys love swimming pools. Now, given all that, can you help me with an itinerary that would take us from Mull through Skye to the Outer Hebrides (I have all the ferry info already), and then back through the most beautiful places of all to Edinburgh? A couple of questions, and then I'll shut up: Sheila, you said in one of your posts that Nethy Bridge is one of your favorites. I found it on the map, but haven't seen anything else about it. Can you fill me in? Also, I was thinking that the best way to go to Edinburgh would be around the coast (given how much I love the ocean), but all these wonderful places that everyone is listing seem to be inland, in-between Skye and Edinburgh -- can someone comment on that? Okay, I know I'm asking a whole heck of a lot, and will be more than happy with any little bits and pieces that anyone can give! Can't wait to see Scotland! (Oh, and am not interested in whiskey or golf. And just one more thing: my husband wants to dive. Where would the best places for that be?)<BR><BR><BR>--------------------------------------------------------------------------------<BR>
 
Old Jan 29th, 2002, 03:26 AM
  #4  
Sheila
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We will begin our trip with a week in Iona with the Iona Community. We'll be driving in from London, spending one night somewhere on the way, and perhaps another night close to Oban. That's the beginning of the trip. I'd like to end the trip with three days in Edinburgh (during the Festival, lucky us!). <BR><BR>"I would really, really appreciate your help with filling in the other 2 and a half weeks."<BR><BR>If I were doing this, I would take the ferry from Oban to Lochboisdale on South Uist. You need to make sure the ferrytimes mesh. I can't check from work because I don't have Acrobat loaded here, but I will at home, if you like. The web address is http://www.calmac.co.uk/ttable_frameset.html<BR><BR>Take a couple of days on the Uists, you can now do Eriskay, South Uist, Benbecula, North Uist and Berneray all by causeway.<BR><BR>Then take the little ferry from Berneray to Leverburgh on Harris and you can do Harris and Lewis from there. <BR><BR>Then get the ferry from Tarbet on Harris back to Uig on Skye.<BR><BR>"am trying to find out more information about staying at the lighthouse at Neist Point -- has anyone done this?)"<BR><BR>I've not done this, but I had a look at the web site- Two things- a) I have the impression that they let on a weekly basis and you might have trouble getting a short let in the high season and b) The place seems to be on the market for sale.<BR><BR>"I am also interested in trying to stay at the lighthouse at Rudha Reidh, but they won't take us unless they don't fill up with hikers."<BR><BR>If you can't get in at Rubha Reidh, I can recommend a couple of nice B&Bs in the area, assuming Torridon is the interest rather than lighthouses.<BR><BR>"And of course, we want to see Loch Ness,"<BR><BR>Give it a miss. It will pale by comparison with the places you have already been.<BR><BR>" and to stay in some really castley-looking castles (secret passages and dungeons are good)."<BR><BR>Someone else will have to help you with this. Not my thing. Have a lok at the Internet guide to Scotland online&gt; Don't have the wen address handy but I can post it if you need it.<BR><BR>"What I love the most is the ocean, I don't care how cold it is. My husband loves the mountains, and my boys love swimming pools."<BR> <BR>"and then back through the most beautiful places of all to Edinburgh?"<BR><BR>If I came off Skye and went north into Torridon, I'd probably keep going up to Ullapool then back down to Inverness. Then I would come down the A9 and take a turn off into Speyside and then a turn off along the Tay.<BR><BR>"Sheila, you said in one of your posts that Nethy Bridge is one of your favorites. I found it on the map, but haven't seen anything else about it."<BR><BR>Ancient forests, mountains, rivers and wildlife (and a bit of whisky)<BR><BR><BR>The west coast is prettier than the east and whilst the east is OK, the mountains are stunning. Go down the middle and take in the Spey and the Tay <BR><BR>"And just one more thing: my husband wants to dive. Where would the best places for that be?"<BR><BR>I'm not knowledgable on this. I know there is a dive centre at Oban and one at Lochaline- 20 minutes in the ferry from Mull, on the mainland. I thought this web site might be some use, tho'<BR><BR>http://www.mounthigh.co.uk/scotdive/<BR><BR><BR>--------------------------------------------------------------------------------<BR>
 
Old Jan 29th, 2002, 01:17 PM
  #5  
Cindy
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Thank you, Sheila! I wasn't even thinking of doing it that way at all, so will definitely reconsider. I had thought that we would drive from Mull to Skye, then to Harris from there. If I take your suggestion, will I miss much between Mull and Skye? I had thought it would be a pretty drive. But am assuming that your route takes in more beauty. Are the ferry rides very rough? I am prone to seasickness, and will have to take Dramamine anyway, but was thinking that the ferry from Skye to Harris would be quicker, and therefore better. Can you fill me in on the Tay and Spey? My tour books don't include anything about them (not by those names, anyway). And as for not seeing Loch Ness, my 11 year old would be too sad. His best friend is a Loch Ness expert (you wouldn't believe how much this child knows about Loch Ness!). So given that, would you do the same route, but just go south at Inverness to see Loch Ness, then backtrack? Thank you so much! (Do you realize how much we appreciate you?)
 
Old Jan 29th, 2002, 09:35 PM
  #6  
Sheila
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That route does ive you the longest and the longest exposed sea route. You really shouldn't get bad weather enough to cause you peoblems in mid summer, and you will find that the rough stuff comes from the west so as long as you are in the lee of the outer isles you're reasonable safe.<BR><BR>You would mis a bit by not travelling on the road but you'd gain (IMHO even more).<BR><BR>Then after you've done your Torridon loop come back down to Lairg and onto the lochside and down Loch Ness all the way to Fort William. Buy doing that as you go south you'll cover most of the ground you missed on the way north. Take a different route south to that you took on the way north ie you should come up from lodon via the west, and Loch Lomond side and go south via Strathyre and Stirling.<BR><BR>The Tay and the Spey are rivers- the bit I had in mind on the Spey was Aviemore back to Grantown, and on the tay from Pitlochry back to Loch tay. But it doesn't make sense to do this if you're coming down the west.<BR><BR>Feel free to revert
 
Old Jan 30th, 2002, 07:35 AM
  #7  
Cindy
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Sheila (or anyone else out there!):<BR><BR>If I tire you out, just stop answering! Do you mean that we should go from Ullapool across to Lairg, and then down through Tain, Alness, etc. to Inverness? And while this new route that you suggest sounds great, it doesn't take us through Spey and the Grampian Mountains, which sounds really nice. Would it be too much travel to head north from Fort William on A82, A86, A9 to Nethy Bridge, etc? Or would you stick with what you've suggested? Also, would it be insane to come to Scotland for a whole month and not see St. Andrews and Glasgow? (Everyone says, "You've got to see St. Andrews," but so far what I've read doesn't grab hold of me.) Thanks!
 
Old Jan 30th, 2002, 07:37 AM
  #8  
Tony Hughes
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Cindy - cannot think you wont like St Andrews.
 
Old Mar 3rd, 2002, 11:08 AM
  #9  
Micki
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Cindy,<BR><BR>My mother and I spent two weeks in Scotland last May and enjoyed everything we saw there. It’s a beautiful country with so much history and the people are wonderful. Here’s our take on the things we liked best and least.<BR><BR>Edinburgh (excellent) – Bus tour of city, Edinburgh Castle, Holyrood Palace, National Portrait Gallery, Royal Museum of Scotland, Royal Mile, Princess Street, Victoria Street, Old Town, New Town, Gladstone’s Land, Lady Stair’s House, John Knox House, Greyfriars Church, St Giles Cathedral.<BR><BR>Took train to Linlithgow saw Palace ruins (excellent) and then on to Stirling (excellent). We only had about three hours in Stirling and I wish we had spent more time here.<BR><BR>Rented a car and drove to Melrose Abbey and Abbottsford House (excellent). Beautiful scenery on the way. Stayed overnight in a castle built in 1430 called Borthwick Castle. Took a wrong turn on the way back to Edinburgh and ended up at Rosslyn Chapel (excellent) which was strange because I wanted to see this anyway.<BR><BR>Went on a day tour of the Highlands (excellent) and Loch Ness (agree with Sheila about missing out on this).<BR><BR>Went on a three day tour to Isle of Skye (excellent). This was one of my favorite places.<BR><BR>Went on a day tour to St. Andrews. This was my least favorite.<BR><BR>I hope to return one day and if I do would like to visit the more remote islands where they speak Gaelic. Would also like to see the Northern and Northeastern part of Scotland which we missed. No matter what you end up doing you’ll have a great time there.<BR><BR>
 
Old Mar 4th, 2002, 07:03 PM
  #10  
Cindy
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Micki:<BR><BR>Thanks for the info. That helps a lot. Can you tell me more about Borthwick Castle? I was thinking about trying to stay there one night. Does it feel like you're in a castle? Were there any secret passages, etc., the kind of things my boys would love? Thanks!
 
Old Mar 4th, 2002, 07:53 PM
  #11  
bobby
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my 2 cents - I envy your trip - wish I had your time to spend in the ol' Highlands... need to get back again. But.. IMHO Skye is the epitome of Scotland. The Cullin Hills are simply gorgeous and almost spiritual. Rent a car out of Portree and drive the island on on lane roads with passing area and thousands of sheep. Walking on the east coast by Portree one can get lost in the greenest sloped hills disappearing into the sea. Even with the new cursed Skye bridge, the dissention and opinions for and against are true Scottish opinions. Could go on and on on Skye (and Mull too) but...<BR><BR>If you don't like golf don't bother with St Andrews. Simple as that. Tourist trap to all non-putters.<BR><BR>Make a point to go the Loch Ness. Make sure to take the tackiest bus tour in Inverness for the monster tour. It is so cheesy its fun! They get you thinking you'll see the "monster" during your quick visit there as opposed to the millions b4 you who have come and gonw w/o seeing nuttin'! Kids love it. (I did too) and Castle Urquart is a neat old falling down castle as well....<BR><BR>Always wanted to go to Harris....the desolation sounds so inviting....And after you've done the Hebrides tour you can end in Edinburgh, the best city period. (I will be slammed by many Glasgowigians sp? but no need to go to Glassgow when you have the other) What Edinburgh needs to be truly savoured is a pair of good shoes. Walk, walk walk down the royal mile, up to King Arthurs Seat. (and so forth...) <BR><BR>have a great time! I will be in France the same time introducing the world of Normandy/Brittany to my kids <BR><BR>
 
Old Mar 9th, 2002, 10:02 AM
  #12  
Micki
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Cindy,<BR><BR>Here's what I liked about Borthwick Castle: It's located in a very pretty area. It's very authentic with history to go with. You can still see where Cromwell's canon hit one of the towers in the 1600's. Mary, Queen of Scots stayed here when she and her 3rd husband, Bothwell were being pursued by some of her rebellious Scottish Lords. She escaped disguised as a boy through one of the windows. It's said to be haunted (I think I saw a ghost while there). The walls are between 10-14 ft. thick. I'm 5 feet tall and I had to duck to enter the bathroom because the doorway was only about 4 1/2 feet high. To get to the rooms you walk up the turnpike stairs. You can stay for dinner (as we did) and that was nice just for the experience but I felt it was overpriced and the food wasn't that good. However, I would do it again just to be able to dine in the great hall and imagine what it must have been like over 500 years ago. (Candlelight, huge fireplace, etc.) They give you a short tour of part of the castle after dinner. They only rent out about 6 to 8 rooms which means less people and more intimate.<BR><BR>Your kids will love Edinburgh Castle. There are plenty of places to climb, to hide, to crawl over, to duck into, etc.<BR><BR>Most of the castles we visited had guides and ropes where you had to stay on the path. Guess that's why I enjoyed the ruins of Linlithgow Palace so much. And I would think that this is another place that kids would enjoy. You have complete freedom to climb, explore passageways, etc. It's about four or five stories high with dungeons and stuff. It wasn't that far by train from Edinburgh and made a nice stop on the way to Stirling. We stopped in the gift shop and the very friendly lady there told us ghost stories and such. It was alot of fun.
 
Old Mar 9th, 2002, 10:04 AM
  #13  
Micki
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more...<BR>As mentioned above the Isle of Skye is very special. We went on a tour and that was kinda nice because the guide pointed out where the clearances had taken place and talked about the history. We toured the crofter's cottages and saw Flora McDonald's grave. I read a book recommended by Tony Hughes before we went to Scotland called "The Road to Culloden Moor - Bonnie Prince Charlie and the '45 Rebellion" by Diana Preston. Knowing some of the history added to the experience. I also read a book I found called "Scotland - An Intimate Portrait" by Geddes MacGregor that I really enjoyed and gave some insight to the Country and it's people. Here's what he says of Skye: "Anyone with the slightest brigadoon tendancies who stays even a night or two on Skye may very well see in the patches of mist mysterious, supernatural sights that tug at the heartstrings of even the sturdiest and may hear heavenly music that can cause the manliest throat to gulp". Here's what he says about the twilights there: "These long, long, softly lighted evenings are to be found all over the land. The elongated shadows introduce you to a world that you can never see at all anywhere in the US, and not nearly so well even in London or Copenhagen. It is a strange, romantic world, full of seductive charm, a paradise for lovers, a profound bliss for the mature who seek to hold open memory's door. The sun does not beat down upon you; it distills its warmth and its beauty gently for hours before bestowing on you its last, lingering goodnight kiss. Then, before you can possibly be awake, it is there, greeting you with an already well-developed dawn". This was very true and something I didn't expect. I remember looking out the window of our B&B on Skye about 10:30 p.m. and the view was so pretty. There was a peach colored hue cast over everything.<BR><BR>Reminising about our vacation makes me want to return. It's a very enchanting country and I'm sure you and your family will find it to be a very special place. And whatever you do you'll find that the best part of the trip is meeting the inhabitants. We met some people that will stay in our memories as much or more than the places we visited. They were so sweet that I justed wanted to hug them, and there were a couple that I did!<BR>
 
Old Mar 9th, 2002, 11:33 AM
  #14  
Cindy
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Thanks for the information, Micki, and for the beautiful quotes. I'll definitely look those books up! We'll be in Skye for three or four nights -- can't wait!
 

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