Anniversary dinner in the Dordogne
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Anniversary dinner in the Dordogne
We are returning to the Dordogne this June for our 30th anniversary. We have rented a gite outside of Sarlat. As we are foodies going out to dinner will be the way we celebrate our anniversary. During our trip in March we had meals, mostly lunches, at Le Pres Galliardou, La Gabarre (lunch & dinner), Rossignol (dinner) and L’Auberge de l’Etang Joli. We tried to get reservations at Le Grand Bleu in Sarlat but they were booked the night we were interested. Any suggestions? TIA.
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I have already posted this response on Chowhound, but for others who perhaps don't see that board, my suggestions:
Our favourite place for celebrations, but for lunch rather than dinner is about 40 minutes from Sarlat, at Tremolat the Vieux Logis http://www.vieux-logis.com/uk/index....t-services.php.
They offer at lunch, during the week only a 'Menu Tapas', which is not Spanish at all, but a selection of beautifully prepared small dishes, which are not only delicious, but interesting. It's a kind of 'menu surprise, and you won't know what you are eating until they bring it (although they do ask for any allergies/dislikes)
The restaurant itself is beautiful, whether you eat inside or in their attractive garden. It's about 40 Euros a person, all included, plus whatever wine you choose - they offer several local options, which aren't expensive. We usually choose one of these.
This is, as I say, our favourite place for celebrations. On the way you can stop in Cadouin, or at Limeuil, where the Dordogne and Vezere Rivers meet.
Closer to Sarlat, and I think just as good as Le Grand Bleu, is Le Saint Martial, at Saint Martial de Nabirat, just south of Domme/Cenac.http://www.restaurant-saint-martial-24.fr/
The owners are charming, and the restaurant extremely good.
I don't particularly like the Esplanade, which I think is over-rated. St Cirq has sometimes made negative comments about Le Vieux Logis, but I doubt that she has been there recently, and the style has changed completely over the last few years. (Our foodie friend, who also lived in Cape Cod before moving to Asheville, tells me 'dont suggest people go to the View Logis, TELL them to go.) I repeat though, that this is lunchtime, during the week only.
Our favourite place for celebrations, but for lunch rather than dinner is about 40 minutes from Sarlat, at Tremolat the Vieux Logis http://www.vieux-logis.com/uk/index....t-services.php.
They offer at lunch, during the week only a 'Menu Tapas', which is not Spanish at all, but a selection of beautifully prepared small dishes, which are not only delicious, but interesting. It's a kind of 'menu surprise, and you won't know what you are eating until they bring it (although they do ask for any allergies/dislikes)
The restaurant itself is beautiful, whether you eat inside or in their attractive garden. It's about 40 Euros a person, all included, plus whatever wine you choose - they offer several local options, which aren't expensive. We usually choose one of these.
This is, as I say, our favourite place for celebrations. On the way you can stop in Cadouin, or at Limeuil, where the Dordogne and Vezere Rivers meet.
Closer to Sarlat, and I think just as good as Le Grand Bleu, is Le Saint Martial, at Saint Martial de Nabirat, just south of Domme/Cenac.http://www.restaurant-saint-martial-24.fr/
The owners are charming, and the restaurant extremely good.
I don't particularly like the Esplanade, which I think is over-rated. St Cirq has sometimes made negative comments about Le Vieux Logis, but I doubt that she has been there recently, and the style has changed completely over the last few years. (Our foodie friend, who also lived in Cape Cod before moving to Asheville, tells me 'dont suggest people go to the View Logis, TELL them to go.) I repeat though, that this is lunchtime, during the week only.
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I enjoyed outstanding, similarly priced dinners at Le Grand Bleu and L'Esplanade, both of which are mentioned above. I don't think you would go wrong with either.
I thought the overall quality of the food reasonably similar, but if forced to choose, I'd say my meal at Le Grand Bleu was the better of two outstanding choices - the food was just the tiniest bit fresher and more flavorful. But that could just be the dishes I ordered.
Some differences:
I thought the service was better at Le Grand Bleu - it was far less stuffy and much more responsive (and discreet) than at L'Esplanade.
The view from L'Esplanade is wonderful! But not all tables have a view, so if that matters, make sure your table will have one. (I don't think any tables at Le Grand Bleu afford a view.)
Happy anniversary!
I thought the overall quality of the food reasonably similar, but if forced to choose, I'd say my meal at Le Grand Bleu was the better of two outstanding choices - the food was just the tiniest bit fresher and more flavorful. But that could just be the dishes I ordered.
Some differences:
I thought the service was better at Le Grand Bleu - it was far less stuffy and much more responsive (and discreet) than at L'Esplanade.
The view from L'Esplanade is wonderful! But not all tables have a view, so if that matters, make sure your table will have one. (I don't think any tables at Le Grand Bleu afford a view.)
Happy anniversary!
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My problem with the Espalande is always the service, which is not only stuffy, but sometimes just not good. Putting the wine bottle on the other side of the room and then disappearing, so that we have to retrieve it ourselves is not my idea of even reasonable service.
You can get the same view from the cafe that overlooks the Dordogne valley, about 50 metres from the Esplanade.
There are no views at Le Grand Bleu. They took over a very ordinary restaurant in a not very attractive part of Sarlat, and have made it work, but it will always suffer from its location.
You can get the same view from the cafe that overlooks the Dordogne valley, about 50 metres from the Esplanade.
There are no views at Le Grand Bleu. They took over a very ordinary restaurant in a not very attractive part of Sarlat, and have made it work, but it will always suffer from its location.
#9
My problem with the Espalande is always the service, which is not only stuffy, but sometimes just not good. Putting the wine bottle on the other side of the room and then disappearing, so that we have to retrieve it ourselves is not my idea of even reasonable service.>>
lol - i thought that only ever happened to me, carlux!
a few years ago we went to a lovely restaurant near Sarlat called "les M.....???" but I seem to remember reading that it closed down, and i haven't been able to find it in michelin.
however, i did find this:
http://www.chateaudelatreyne.com/
michelin also rates le vieux logis highly.
bonne anniversaire!
lol - i thought that only ever happened to me, carlux!
a few years ago we went to a lovely restaurant near Sarlat called "les M.....???" but I seem to remember reading that it closed down, and i haven't been able to find it in michelin.
however, i did find this:
http://www.chateaudelatreyne.com/
michelin also rates le vieux logis highly.
bonne anniversaire!
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'a few years ago we went to a lovely restaurant near Sarlat called "les M.....???" but I seem to remember reading that it closed down, and i haven't been able to find it in michelin. '
It may have been La Meynardie, near Salignac, north of Sarlat. Again one of our favourites, but the owners decided it was time to slow down, having worked since the age of 14. It was classy, interesting, and attractive, but alas, has been closed for several years.
It may have been La Meynardie, near Salignac, north of Sarlat. Again one of our favourites, but the owners decided it was time to slow down, having worked since the age of 14. It was classy, interesting, and attractive, but alas, has been closed for several years.
#11
AGM_Cape_Cod----so glad you started this thread.
This question was also on my list as I will have my birthday dinner in Sarlat in Sept.
As we will be staying right in the city it would be great if we could walk to dinner. but a 20 min. (or so) drive would br OK.
I really like the look of LaBelle
http://hotel-belle-etoile-dordogne.fr/gb/restaurant.htm
and also LeVieux
http://www.microsofttranslator.com/b...fle-restaurant
Le Grand Bleu gets all the good reviews
We, of course, like good food but I wouldn't call us food snobs. What we really like is a picturesque setting, reasonably good service, and tasty, well presented food. I'm more adventuresome than MDH when it comes to food so it helps if they have a good steak or chicken for him, although he does love foie gras.
In reading Trip Advisor reviews, I came across one that made a point of taking credit cards----is this a problem in Sarlat? We do prefer to charge but can also go to an ATM for cash if needed.
This question was also on my list as I will have my birthday dinner in Sarlat in Sept.
As we will be staying right in the city it would be great if we could walk to dinner. but a 20 min. (or so) drive would br OK.
I really like the look of LaBelle
http://hotel-belle-etoile-dordogne.fr/gb/restaurant.htm
and also LeVieux
http://www.microsofttranslator.com/b...fle-restaurant
Le Grand Bleu gets all the good reviews
We, of course, like good food but I wouldn't call us food snobs. What we really like is a picturesque setting, reasonably good service, and tasty, well presented food. I'm more adventuresome than MDH when it comes to food so it helps if they have a good steak or chicken for him, although he does love foie gras.
In reading Trip Advisor reviews, I came across one that made a point of taking credit cards----is this a problem in Sarlat? We do prefer to charge but can also go to an ATM for cash if needed.
#12
WOW! Chateau de la Treyne looks terrific. A little more upscale than we usually do, but hey, it's my birthday.
It's not so much the price but the fact that we travel light on clothes so I don't usually bring a dress. MDH--dress shirt(no tie) and sport coat. Me--nice pants, top, jacket, scarf or decent jewelery. Most of the tome that works---what do you think?
It's not so much the price but the fact that we travel light on clothes so I don't usually bring a dress. MDH--dress shirt(no tie) and sport coat. Me--nice pants, top, jacket, scarf or decent jewelery. Most of the tome that works---what do you think?
#13
t may have been La Meynardie, near Salignac, north of Sarlat. >>
spot on, Carlux. you know what it's like when a name is on the tip of your tongue...you have relieved my frustration, thanks.
TPAYT - the outfits sound fine. tiaras optional!
spot on, Carlux. you know what it's like when a name is on the tip of your tongue...you have relieved my frustration, thanks.
TPAYT - the outfits sound fine. tiaras optional!
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TPAYT, The Château de la Treyne is magnificent, but it's 30 km from Sarlat. If you're not comfortable driving on dark, winding roads (and it will be dark coming home in September) you might want to make it a birthday lunch.
The outfit's fine.
The outfit's fine.
#15
Tiaras optional---![Imported](https://www.fodors.com/community/images/smilies/imported/clap.gif)
I was just polishing mine up a bit!
I'll check with MDH about the drive, he usually doesn't mind and he doesn't drink so that's not a problem. I'm the one who holds up the wine end of the table.
![Imported](https://www.fodors.com/community/images/smilies/imported/clap.gif)
I was just polishing mine up a bit!
I'll check with MDH about the drive, he usually doesn't mind and he doesn't drink so that's not a problem. I'm the one who holds up the wine end of the table.
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I have no hesitation in recommeding Les Vieux Logis in Tremolat. I had the best dinner I have ever had in France there in 2010. Service, ambiance, food - everything about it was fantastic. Of course lunch is good too, but I think it is easy enough to navigate back to Sarlat after a fine dinner.
Another place I like is called La Recreation in Les Arques (46250). This is out in the country - to the south of Sarlat and is a wonderful restaurant that never fails to please us. If you are worried about driving on small country roads after dark, then a nice lunch there is a great option. Check it out on Trip Advisor - it still gets great ratings. I don't think either place would be too stuffy about how you dressed, especially La Recreation.
So much to choose from...
Another place I like is called La Recreation in Les Arques (46250). This is out in the country - to the south of Sarlat and is a wonderful restaurant that never fails to please us. If you are worried about driving on small country roads after dark, then a nice lunch there is a great option. Check it out on Trip Advisor - it still gets great ratings. I don't think either place would be too stuffy about how you dressed, especially La Recreation.
So much to choose from...
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It's been longer since we've been in the Dordogne than I had realized, but in 2007, we had a lovely dinner IN Sarlat at Le Presidial. We also ate at Le Meynardie, which was also as good as others have said.
Our 12yo DS's birthday occurred while we were there, and he chose to have his birthday dinner at l'Esplanade. The dinner was very good (DH and I had eaten there before), but it was the view that made DS decide he wanted to eat here. We had a wonderful dinner on their terrace overlooking the valley (see my trip report for all the details), which was crowned by a massive thunderstorm that slowly made its way up the valley - we made a quick move inside between dinner and dessert. They made a lovely small cake for our son, and sang a French birthday song; "mama" even came out to sing. (Yes, the drive home was a hassle, but worth it.)
Our 12yo DS's birthday occurred while we were there, and he chose to have his birthday dinner at l'Esplanade. The dinner was very good (DH and I had eaten there before), but it was the view that made DS decide he wanted to eat here. We had a wonderful dinner on their terrace overlooking the valley (see my trip report for all the details), which was crowned by a massive thunderstorm that slowly made its way up the valley - we made a quick move inside between dinner and dessert. They made a lovely small cake for our son, and sang a French birthday song; "mama" even came out to sing. (Yes, the drive home was a hassle, but worth it.)
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Wow, so many choices!! I am not sure how to decide but I will let my DH take a look since he will be driving.
TPAYT- Le Grand Bleu is suppose to be very good but no one would call it picturesque. We want to try it because Valentine at La Gabarre (which I would definitely try!!) said her husband used to work there and recommended it.
TPAYT- Le Grand Bleu is suppose to be very good but no one would call it picturesque. We want to try it because Valentine at La Gabarre (which I would definitely try!!) said her husband used to work there and recommended it.
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La Recre of course has been taken over by new owners, and so may not be the same restaurant people remember (from You can't see Paris from here.) I wouldn't want to be driving home at night from there.
Once again, the thing about weekday lunches at the Vieux Logis is that you will have a meal that you won't get anywhere else. Here is an old review I wrote for Slow Travel, but you get the idea. (And no, I dont get a commission! We just really love the place.)
The restaurant itself is lovely – done with taste and charm, in a restored tobacco barn, with a gallery around the sides. Beautiful fabrics line the walls, where there are also little alcoves for more intimate groups. In the summer you can eat outside in their attractive garden, with stream, topiary, manicured lawns, and the weathered roof of an adjacent 18th century barn
The menu changes every day and is a surprise – they bring you many small courses, and explain each as it comes. Part of the enjoyment is the excitement of trying different things.
If you have an allergy or pet food hate, they usually provide options. We have gone with a friend who is allergic to onions, and sent another friend who is celiac, and neither have had any difficulty.
We have been a number of times, and this week on a lovely sunny day enjoyed:
Boudin noir (black pudding) pastry sticks
fougasse – olive oil bread, with olive oil for dipping.
melon ball with cured ham
green tomato gazpacho coeur de boeuf
tomato carpaccio with basil
mi-cuit green tomato
courgette cream with la vache qui rit (cheese)mousse
granitée de foie gras foie gras crème brulé
young cod with Mediterranean beans
volaille stuffed with cepes, creamed potato, fondant potato and delicate girolles (mushrooms)
Chevre with lemon gelatine and crispy micro croutons
cream of mascarpone with fruit de bois and fruit sorbet chocolate mousse cake with praline grapefruit mousse topped with vanilla cream
dice-decorated brownies
meringue with fraises des bois
All tiny portions, and so we came away happy and comfortable.
We accompanied our meal with a Bergerac sec blanc. They offer a full wine list, but also a selection of red, wine, and rosé at reasonable price and good quality, chosen to go with the menu – which the restaurant knows in advance, but the customers don’t.
Sorry, no photos of this lovely meal. Beautiful as it was I can’t bring myself to take photos in restaurants.
Once again, the thing about weekday lunches at the Vieux Logis is that you will have a meal that you won't get anywhere else. Here is an old review I wrote for Slow Travel, but you get the idea. (And no, I dont get a commission! We just really love the place.)
The restaurant itself is lovely – done with taste and charm, in a restored tobacco barn, with a gallery around the sides. Beautiful fabrics line the walls, where there are also little alcoves for more intimate groups. In the summer you can eat outside in their attractive garden, with stream, topiary, manicured lawns, and the weathered roof of an adjacent 18th century barn
The menu changes every day and is a surprise – they bring you many small courses, and explain each as it comes. Part of the enjoyment is the excitement of trying different things.
If you have an allergy or pet food hate, they usually provide options. We have gone with a friend who is allergic to onions, and sent another friend who is celiac, and neither have had any difficulty.
We have been a number of times, and this week on a lovely sunny day enjoyed:
Boudin noir (black pudding) pastry sticks
fougasse – olive oil bread, with olive oil for dipping.
melon ball with cured ham
green tomato gazpacho coeur de boeuf
tomato carpaccio with basil
mi-cuit green tomato
courgette cream with la vache qui rit (cheese)mousse
granitée de foie gras foie gras crème brulé
young cod with Mediterranean beans
volaille stuffed with cepes, creamed potato, fondant potato and delicate girolles (mushrooms)
Chevre with lemon gelatine and crispy micro croutons
cream of mascarpone with fruit de bois and fruit sorbet chocolate mousse cake with praline grapefruit mousse topped with vanilla cream
dice-decorated brownies
meringue with fraises des bois
All tiny portions, and so we came away happy and comfortable.
We accompanied our meal with a Bergerac sec blanc. They offer a full wine list, but also a selection of red, wine, and rosé at reasonable price and good quality, chosen to go with the menu – which the restaurant knows in advance, but the customers don’t.
Sorry, no photos of this lovely meal. Beautiful as it was I can’t bring myself to take photos in restaurants.