BELLA ITALIA! Trip Report: Liguria, Toscana, Campania regions
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BELLA ITALIA! Trip Report: Liguria, Toscana, Campania regions
I have been home from Italy for over 1 month now and have been remiss in not posting a travel report yet. I have hesitated to do so because 1) I have never posted a trip report before 2) I am very detailed and tend to write extensive, copious journals and 3) I prefer to travel on the budget side perhaps more than others. However, I realized I might help other single, budget-conscious, women, students, mothers-with-children type travelers, etc. with their trip planning so I am sharing my travel experiences. I have been taking my small child (now 4 years old) with me to Europe since she was 4 months old. Italy is my most favorite country to visit because I am fluent in the language (my child understands and speaks Italian too!) and I am very comfortable there ? not to mention the love the Italians have for children. Needless to say, traveling with a young child is very challenging and exhausting at times, however it is certainly a memorable experience each and every time we are in bella Italia! As an historian, my travel emphasis is on the archaeological/historical aspect of sites in Italy ? I don?t always do the typical vacation type thing when I am there. Be forewarned, this trip report is long!
I began my 3-week trip by flying from the West Coast into Milano?s Malpensa airport, arriving at 10:15 am. From the airport, I took the white Malpensa Shuttle bus (located outside the terminal on the baggage claim level) for 4,50 euros (adult) and 2,25 euros (child) for the 50-minute drive into town and to the Milano Centrale train station. I bought 2nd class train tickets to Monterosso al mare (Cinque Terre). My ticket cost 20,02 euros total, plus 10 euros (?) child?s discount ticket and the train left at 12:10 pm, with a stop in Rapallo (2:17 pm, dep 2:29 pm), arriving in Monterosso al mare at 3:18 pm. The total trip time is listed at 3h08m, however, it is never this precise. (I take this route about 6 times a year and it is very easy to negotiate; often stopping in Genoa, Sestri Levante, and/or La Spezia before reaching the Cinque Terre. I do wish there was a non-stop train on this route because I am impatient to get there!)
In Monterosso, I stayed at Affittacamere ?Unico? (Via XX Settembre, 22 Telephone: 011.39.0187.817714, email: [email protected]) The owner is Adriano Rossignoli (note that his English is very, very limited, if you know any Italian that will help you out) and he rents out 4 lovely rooms located in a residential building on Via XX Settembre, a small street less than 3 minutes? walking distance up from the main square, park, and beach. The location couldn?t have been more convenient and we loved our room overlooking the quaint street below! Each double room with bathroom (shower, hair-dryer, toilet, and bidet), TV and is only 60 euros a night (no credit cards, only euros/cash). Adriano is a personable, friendly man and handed me his stamped business card, recommending dinner at ?Ristorante Al Carugio? located close by on Via San Pietro, 9. The restaurant gives all ?Unico? hotel guests a 20% discount on meals if you mention and/or show his card. (I didn?t go there, however, I have heard that it is a good restaurant). Despite the fatigue from our 16-hour flight over that morning and train travel that afternoon (my 4 year old refused to sleep); we walked to the ?spiaggia? (beach) where it was still warm and plenty of people around (~5:30 pm). Later on, we ate dinner at ?Ristorante Al Pozzo?, Via Roma 24 (011.39.0187.817 575, owner is Gino Barilari). The restaurant staff was very friendly, the atmosphere great, and the food delicious. They had seating inside or outside of the restaurant and I decided dining al fresco (outside) would be more fun, watching all the passerby's. The bill with cover charge for 2, a Fanta, a Coke, and 2 huge plates (bowls?) of risotto al mare con funghi (seafood risotto with mushrooms ? delicious!!) came to 30,20 euros. Needless to say, that delicious dinner was eaten in haste, as that is when my daughter decided to sleep ? right there in the chair at the restaurant! It was amusing; I got a lot of kind smiles. (Note: you can avoid ordering duplicate plates of food if you tell the waiter in advance that your child does not eat a lot and that you would like an extra plate for him/her to share with you. I usually order 1 antipasto (if at all), 1 primi, and 1 secondi then ask for another plate to share the entire meal with my child. Likewise, this is an entirely do-able option for students, couples, or anyone else that doesn?t feel like eating a lot, yet wants to try to different dishes. The Italians did not frown down on that at all).
Another aside, Granita drinks (crushed ice with fruit flavors blended in, like a slush) abound all throughout Italy in the summer/fall with limone (lemon), menthe (mint), and fragola (strawberry) the reigning flavors. Occasionally, they alternate the fragola (strawberry) with rosso arancio (blood orange) and anguria (watermelon) ? my favorite. At 1,30-1,50 for a glass (approx. 8 oz), they are well worth the price for an instant cool down and flavor charge!
The next day I had to meet my friend down in Rome so I caught an early train (dep Monterosso at 7:29 am, via stop in La Spezia, arrives Rome at 12:14 pm. 2nd class tickets = 48 euros RT) to spend the day with her, have lunch, go shopping, etc. For the end of the first week of September, Rome was surprisingly not too crowded. The weather was hot, but not unbearable. The area around Termini, particularly down Via Giovanni Street, is full of ethnic shops, restaurants, vendors hawking their wares, etc. While it is certainly not the most attractive area in Rome, IMO it is not a seedy area, just an industrial area that is not very pretty nor are there many sites around there. (I usually stay in the Campo dei Fiori district when I am overnight in Rome). The area near Termini and environs around (my friend?s shop is located nearby off Via Principe Amedeo) has many Chinese, Indian, and even Thai restaurants around. She said it is hard to find an Italian restaurant in the area, believe it or not! During the day, a lot of locals, businessmen, etc frequent the area for discount shopping and unique dining. After lunch we walked over to Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II and the ?parco? there. We found a carousel, train ride, and lots of other fun kid rides to go on, plus the traditional swings, slides, etc. in the playground area of the park. After a full day of shopping and walking, we hopped on the 7:00 pm train back to Monterosso that night.
The following day we slept in a bit (an indulgence) then walked around Monterosso looking at the shops and sightseeing. In the afternoon, we took a 5Terre boat (14,00 euros total RT for the both of us) to Portovenere. I?ve been there a couple times before but never with my little girl. We walked up and around Lord Byron?s Grotto and the fortress, church, and cemetery areas. Took lots of photos overlooking the beautiful Golfo dei Poeti, ate a gelato and sat on a bench alongside the little dock area with the other locals. The 2.5 hours we were there was plenty of time to see everything. That evening we dined at my favorite restaurant owned by some friends of mine, ?Il Porticciolo? in Manarola (Via Renata Birolli, 92 Tel 011.39.0187.920.083), it is located midway down the main street through Manarola, on the R side as you are facing the harbor. Our meal total of 21,43 euros was one of the most delicious on our trip and included the cover charge, large bottled water, insalata di mare (seafood salad-antipasti), trenette al pesto (primi), frutti di mare misto (mixed fried seafood platter-secondi), limone torta (lemon cake-dolci) e a glass of crema di limone (limoncello version-aperitif). Superb!
The next day (Sunday), we took the 10:00 am train up to Genova. I wanted to spend the day there sightseeing and go to the famous aquarium. I had read that the aquarium was about a 15-minute walk from Genova?s Principe train station, that was more or less true. It was easy to negotiate as the general direction of Genova?s port is to the R and down from the station. However, there was quite a bit of construction (scaffolding, building refacing, remodeling, etc) going on at the train station so some exits were closed off. I stopped at a couple local shops enroute to the port for some water, fruit, etc to take along the way and found everyone to be pleasant and accommodating. I wanted to see the ?Palazzo Reale? and kept my eyes open for it as we walked along Via Balbi. From the street, its façade blends in with the other adjacent buildings, and it is often overlooked. However, inside the courtyard area it is magnificent. The black and white stone/tile work in the gardens in the back is magnificent, as are the koi fish and turtles abounding in the water fountain and decorative pond. There are limited views of the city port area, although mostly obstructed by cranes and ships. Lucky for us, the art collection/museum inside the Palazzo Reale was free that day (I read that Sundays it was free) so that was even better. It happened to be free that day (Sunday)?
Upon arriving at the port, ate lunch at a local seaside restaurant and spent 17 euros for a large margherita pizza and 2 sodas. Because I have a child, Genova was very important to me because the city touts itself as the city of children. So much so, in fact, that they have a ?city for children? (bambini) on the waterfront promenade, housed in a huge building portside. There is a museum, discovery center inside, etc. I spotted a waterfront ristorante (La Banchina ? pizzeria/focacceria) where we ate a quick 8,30 euros lunch - cover charge, a large margherita pizza, and large bottled mineral water ? enough for the 2 of us. Just before the entrance of the aquarium, we spotted the large galleon that was used in the ?Pirates of the Caribbean? movie docked quietly next to the other, less imposing boats. The Genoa aquarium cost 7,50 euros for me, 5 euros for my ?bambina? and was well worth the price. We ended up spending about 3 hours in there.
After the aquarium, we walked over to ?Il Bigo? which is a large, white, pole-like structure in the harbor that has a glass elevator that takes you 130 feet up to the top for some terrific views of Genoa?s harbor. The fare was reduced because I showed my aquarium ticket, my child was free!
I took my child to the main square park in Monterosso nearly every night, we had a routine, played with all the other local children until 10:00-10:30 pm (late for us!) and then ate a gelato at the gelatteria adjacent. We visited family friends in Riomaggiore for 3 days, eating lunch and dinner with them until the wee hours of the night.
Some more restaurants in Monterosso that we ate at and enjoyed immensely: returned for dinner to Ristorante Al Pozzo (Via Roma, 24 in Monterosso) and paid 38,40 euros for a dinner that included the cover charge, Coke, insalata caprese, spaghetti pomodoro, steak filet. Ristorante ?Il Gabbiano? (?sea gull?) Via Fegina, 84, Tel 011.39.0187.817 578, located right along the waterfront promenade. Paid 43,00 euros for cover charge, bread/grassini basket, large bottle mineral water, ravioli con funghi, linguine al pesto, seafood risotto, frutti di mare misto (fried seafood). Fish is so fresh and delicious in the CT and we try to eat it every day while there to get our fill! We reluctantly left Monterosso mid-week (Weds) after 7 blissful days in the Cinque Terre.
Next stop - Tuscany and Lucca (one of my favorite towns) so we could go to Pinocchio Park in nearby Collodi. One-way 2nd class train ticket from Riomaggiore to Lucca cost 6,35 euros, took 2 hours with a stop in Viareggio. We stayed at ?Hotel Diana? (Via del Molinetto, 11 Tel 011.39.0583.492.202/Fax 011.39.0583.467.795 www.albergodiana.com) for 67 euros a night for a double room with bathroom. It was located very close to the city walls near Porta San Pietro and only 500 meters (~15 minute walk) from the train station. Since we had missed lunch while on the train, we stopped in to revive ourselves at the best little bakery I have even been to in Lucca, ?Il Forno Cei & Cianelli? (off Piazza S. Maria B 9). For only 1,78 euros, I stocked up on macaroons, chocolate haystacks, bread, and cookies which we took to our hotel. After wandering through Lucca looking at familiar sites in the late afternoon, we then ate a delightful, big dinner at my favorite restaurant, Trattoria Da Leo (Via Tegrimi, 1 Tel 11.39.0583.492.236) for only 32,40 euros that included cover charge, bread/grassini basket, 2 beverages, 1 large bottled water, 2 primis-spaghetti con crema al funghi/quattro formaggio ravioli, 1 secondo/fiorentina steak, 1 contorno/plate of potatoes).
The next day, I walked to Piazzale Verdi mid-morning to catch a LAZZI bus for Pinocchio Park. I paid 3,20 euros a ticket and took the bus to the Ponte D?Alba stop and then walked 25 minutes to the entrance of Pinocchio Park. Across the street from the Pinocchio Park is the famous Villa Garzoni, where Napoleon is reputed to have stayed. While the Villa is under reconstruction and remodeling, the gardens are open and nearly all the fountains functioning. It reminded me of a small-scale combination Tivoli Garden and Caserta Palace garden rolled into one. There are a couple cafes and restaurants outside and in front of Pinocchio Park that are over-priced but not as much as the food inside the park. Caprese salad, a large margherita pizza, bread and cover charge cost me 27 euros. I picked up a Pinocchio tee shirt next door for 7 euros (again, a bargain compared to the doubled prices inside Pinocchio Park). The entrance to the park is unobstrusive and not very well marked. I found the 15 euros price (8,50 euros/adult, 6,50 euros/child) rather overpriced as I later learned that all the rides cost additional money once inside. For those that have never been to Pinocchio Park, do not go expecting a typical U.S. amusement park (i.e. Disneyland), this was a park comprised of manicured trees/bushes, mosaic wall designs, statuettes throughout, and a huge whale that you could walk into the mouth/teeth of the animal. The overall atmosphere is more of a park with common 1 euro rides one would find at any local Italian park (a carrousel, little boats). There was a nice one-man puppet show that was entertaining and fun for all. The one cafeteria/snack bar on the premises offered over-priced items for consumption. After 4 hours, we left to make the long walk back to the bus stop on the main road in Collodi, and then returned to Lucca by 5:30 pm.
I had seen an air bill/poster advertising a series of Puccini concerts being held in Lucca in September and October on Thursday evenings. Paid 25 euros total for the 2 of us to attend a Puccini concert (?A Night at the Opera?) given in the San Giovanni Basilica. My little girl was the only child there amongst all the adults. She absolutely loved the concert and continued singing ?arias? and bowing days afterward. It was a wonderful experience for her (and me!). After the concert, we wandered off the beaten path and stumbled upon ?Ristorante da Francesco?, Corte Portici, 13 Tel 011.39.0583.418.049) and spent 26,50 euros on a very filling, delicious dinner (incl. cover charge, bread, insalata caprese, tagliatelle con funghi, penne alla bologonese, roasted ? chicken and garlic rosemary potatoes, large bottle of mineral water). Highly recommended. Little did I know this was a ?Let?s Go!? and Fodors recommendation too ? excellent choice!
Spent the next day shopping around Lucca, including my favorite, UPIM. I stocked up on summer sale merchandise marked down to 2 and 5 euros, respectively. Also, found another store (La Primula Verde SRL) with exceptional deals on summer sundresses, polo shirts, knitted T-shirts, etc at only 3 euros each! Took a shopping break for lunch at ?Ristorante Antica Locanda dell?Angelo? Via Pescheria, 21 Tel 011.39.0583.467.711) and spent a pricey 46,00 euros that included a cover charge, zuppa di faro (typical Tuscan bean soup with pasta), spaghetti with clams, mixed seafood grill platter, and a large bottle of mineral water.
After 3 days in Lucca, we left on Friday for Livorno. Took 1-hour train to Livorno, then hopped on #2 bus to my friends? hotel. Albergo Cavour (Via Adua, 10 Tel 011.39.0586.899.604) is indeed a steal with prices ranging from 30-50 euros a night for a double room, some rooms with bath, and some rooms nearly as large as a suite. Our double room with bathroom across the hall cost 40 euros. Livorno makes a good base for those catching a ferry boat over to Corsica, as well as a base for exploring Tuscany. It is central to everything and off the tourist?s beaten path. Ate dinner that night at ?Ristorante La Vecchia Senese? Via del Tempio, 14 Tel 011.39.0586.892.560) 35,00 euros for insalata caprese, tagliatelle con funghi, linguine al pesto, mixed seafood platter, and large bottle of mineral water.
The next day wandered around Livorno, shopping, went to a local park, had an expensive (but good) 37,50 euros lunch at ?Ristorante Gennarino? Via S. Fortunata, 11. They take AMEX! Dinner later that night was back at ?Ristorante La Vecchia Senese? for only 14,00 euros (cover charge, 2 margherita pizzas, 1 large bottle mineral water).
The next day (Sunday) decided to go to Volterra. However, given bus and train schedules on Sundays, I would not recommend trying to travel on this day (festivo) to off-the-beaten-path places unless one has a car. We took the ATL bus from Livorno (2,60 euros per ticket) to Cecina. Then walked to Cecina train station for connecting bus (if any) up to Volterra. As luck would have it, there was only 1 bus that day and it had already left at 11:00 in the morning. I found an amiable taxi driver to take us up to Volterra and (thankfully!) he took Visa so I paid the 59,00 euros for the 1 hour ride there. Volterra is definitely worth seeing at least once. It is a small, Etruscan town famous for its alabaster. The views atop the Tuscan valley looking down at the varied landscape below were stupendous ? better than those even from Siena. We stopped for a late lunch (2:00 pm) at ?Ristorante Nazionale? Via dei Marchesi, 11 Tel 011.39.0588.862.84) and spent 16,30 euros that included cover charge, prix-fixe lunch (mixed salad, macaroni with cheese for my child, roasted chicken with potatoes, side of vegetables), tiramisu dessert, ? liter bottle of mineral water. Fortified by lunch, we walked up to the Etruscan acropolis ruins (in a park-like setting); my child loved the park and the kid things to play on. Unfortunately, it began to rain and we left. After ducking in and out of shops to keep dry and buying lots of alabaster items (small), the rain stopped and we walked over to the Roman amphitheatre ruins. Wow, amazing preservation into the hillside, again with awesome views over the valley beyond. Walked to the 2 different city gates (porta) to see the Etruscan, then Roman architectural influences on the city. After an afternoon of exploration, we took a CPT bus down from Volterra to Cecina (1,55 euros). In Cecina, there was another bus to transfer to the Cecina train station a short distance away. From there, we hopped on the train back to Livorno (2,60 euros). After a late (10:30 pm) dinner at ?Ristorante Gennarino? again, we called it a night.
Monday afternoon we left Livorno for the south (Campania). After a train stop in Roma?s Termini station, we connected to another train down to Naples. From Naples, we got on the Circumvesuviana train (3,20 euros) for the 1-hour ride into Sorrento. Our lodging was at the Hotel Lorelei e Londres, Via Califano, 12 (Tel 011.39.081.807-3187/Fax 011.39.081.532.9001) and it was a perfect choice. I opted for a taxi ride from the Circumvesuviana station since I had my stroller, luggage, and bags to carry (too many souvenirs!) and paid 12 euros for the lift to the Lorelei. The Lorelei e Londres is very conveniently located in Sorrento (a 10-12 min walk from the station and town) and its seaside perch above the Marina Grande offers breathtaking views of the coastline below. Our double room with sea view, complete with a walkout terrace that overlooked lemon groves, the Bay of Naples, Mt. Vesuvius, etc. included breakfast, cost 96,00 euros. I would stay there again any day. The hotel has a restaurant on-site that serves delicious meals that are then conveniently billed to your room.
After a leisurely start the following day, we took the SITA bus (2,40 euros) from outside the Circumvesuviana station to Amalfi. The views along the narrow coastline road were wonderful; the sea was sparkling and clear. We passed through Positano and got to Amalfi in about 1.15 minutes time. After looking at the Duomo, and nearby shops, we ate lunch at ?Ristorante S. Andrea? Piazza Duomo, 26 (Tel 011.39.089.871.023) for 17 euros (included cover charge, 3 beverages (we were thirsty!) and a large margherita pizza).
From there we walked to Atrani, a small town immediately adjacent to Amalfi and about 10-15 minutes around the bend heading southward. Atrani is a very small town without the crowds that Amalfi has and it was delightful to spend the afternoon on their uncrowded beach (compared to Amalfi?s) and walk through the quiet streets. After a relaxing afternoon, we walked back to Amalfi and I stocked up on souvenirs at ?Antichi Sapori d?Amalfi? a little shop adjacent to the Duomo at Piazza Duomo, 30. The owner had a sale of limoncello in different glass shaped bottles with multi-colored liqueurs for only 2 euros a bottle. There was also lots of lemon-scented soaps, lemon bath products, lemon candies, colored marzipan, etc. I stocked up on everything for only 19 euros! After all that walking and shopping, we stopped to buy double gelato cones (and some pastries to take back to the hotel) for 6,40 euros total at Bar Francese. We happily ate our gelato and people-watched until it was time to head back to the SITA bus for our return to Sorrento.
The following day I had business up in Rome, so we took the Circumvesuviana train very early into Naples, and then transferred to another train (Naples-Rome). I enjoyed the brief reprieve in Rome and am very comfortable there. Unfortunately, that was the day certain busses were on strike and the ever-popular #40 wasn?t running so everyone jumped on the #64; and consequently the bus was jammed like sardines. My poor little girl and I were stuffed in by the door, along with the stroller. It was not a pleasant experience nor was the ride to the Campo dei Fiori and the Piazza Farnese. After my early afternoon meeting, we ate a pizza lunch at Café Farnese (9,60 euros) and then did more shopping around the Campo and also at the UPIM in Termini before heading back down south on a 7:00 pm train to Sorrento. We ate a late dinner at ?Ristorante da Gigino? Via Degli Archi, 15 in the heart of Sorrento, off Via S. Cesareo. It looked like a tourist trap, complete with a strolling band that was serenading the Brits and others with ?O Sole Mio?; however, given the late hour (10:00 pm) it was about the only place still open that looked good. It was not a disappointment. Paid 34,00 euros that included cover charge, 1 primi plate of spaghetti with mixed seafood/mussels, etc, 1 secondi plate of a huge fresh fish (similar to a trout in taste) that was lightly breaded and fried (delicious), insalata caprese, and a 1 litre bottle of mineral water. The fish plate alone was enough for the two of us! (Incidentally, I did notice that our service was better than the other tables (of tourists) around us. We got our insalata caprese antipasto long before others even got their basket of bread and they had been sitting there before we arrived. Again, I think it helped that they thought we were Italian!)
After a torrential downpour in Sorrento the next morning (it flooded the hotel lobby floor!), I waited until the weather cleared then ventured into Naples to meet my friends. They live in the Vomero district, high above the chaos and madness of the city. It was nice to spend a pleasant, tranquil day in one of the most loveliest areas in Naples (IMO). After a full day of shopping and sightseeing, we returned for dinner at their home (of the many delicious dishes we ate, I loved a specialty of the Naples area - traditional potato ?croquets? ? yummy!). My friends were kind enough to drive us back to Sorrento and the Lorelei, sparing us nighttime travel on the Circumvesuviana train.
The next day dawned clear and bright and was the perfect day for a boat ride. We caught a Metro Del Mare boat from Sorrento to Amalfi (6 euros/adult, 2,00 euros/child) and rode on choppy seas down the coast to Amalfi. From there we took a SITA bus to Cetara. I wanted to explore this little town and go somewhere I hadn?t been. We walked down to the tiny beachfront/harbor and my child played with some of the other children there, dodging in and out amidst small, docked boats. We walked back through town and got a gelato and did some window-shopping. Cetara was a bit of a disappointment as I had thought it would have been a bit more lively. Perhaps Minori and Maiori would have been better choices as there were more people milling out and about in those towns then I ever viewed in Cetara. We returned to Sorrento after dark and ate a late dinner at a local bar/pizzeria near Piazzo Tasso. My child had to have her green ?menthe? granita as dessert ? of course!
We returned to Naples to visit my friends again the following day. This time we explored the city more. We ate at Naples? famous ?Pizzeria Port?Alba? near the ancient Porta Alba in Piazza Dante, and paid 15 euros total for 3 people (Pizza ?Doc? & margherita pizza, and a 1 litre bottle of mineral water). We walked through the impressive Galleria Umberto I; peeked inside the Teatro San Carlo opera house; strolled through the gardens of the Palazzo Reale; then out to the piazza Municipio. I had been to Naples two times before on previous trips and had already seen some of its more known landmarks. This was more of a leisurely stroll with no distinct agenda in mind. It was nice to enjoy Naples this way, ordinarily I am wary and on guard (having been robbed there 1 year previous), but with my friend, I felt comfortable and actually enjoyed the chaos and bedlam around me!
I returned to Naples again the next day, this time we did have an agenda: visiting the Campi Flegrei (Phylgrean Fields) and ancient historic areas northwest of Naples. As an historian, this area is of immense interest to me and I had read up a lot on it. My friends were thrilled to show it to me and were excited that I, as an American, even knew about the area. It was wonderful to see all this history, right in the middle of everything, with nothing removed or destroyed. Modern Naples has just grown up around it. Tour books have traditionally referred to this area as ugly; however, I would say it is oft overlooked by tourists and therefore does not receive the attention or refurbishment other spots may.
We started in Pozzuoli (founded by Greeks in 530 BC as bulwark against Etruscans, Romans renamed it Puteoli and made it a colony in 194 BC). There are extensive Roman ruins throughout this once-thriving city. The macellum is located down near the port and is the ancient fish and meat market. It is commonly known as the Tempio di Serapide (Temple of Serapis). Much of this structure has been submerged underwater due to ?Bradyseism? (bubbling, rising, sinking volcanic earth) in the area and it makes for a very interesting photograph (looks like something out of ?Lord of the Rings? or ?Star Wars? because of the round circle of pillars in the middle, half sunken in the earth). Located northeast of the port is the 40,000 seat capacity Anfiteatro Flavio (Flavian amphitheatre), it was the ancient world?s 3rd largest after the Colosseum in Rome and the amphitheatre in Capua (where Spartacus fought). It was begun under Nero; however, most of it was built during Vespasian?s rule (AD 70-9). While this amphitheatre is not as frequented nor as popular as its Roman counterpart (the Colisseum), surprisingly it is in more disrepair and decay.
A short drive away and we were in the middle of an area known as Solfatara, literally burning sulphoric steam and bubbles rising from the ground over a dormant volcanic crater. The streets are paved right over and adjacent to this phenomenal site, I had never seen anything like that (imagine seeing hot steam coming out of the ground next to you while you are waiting at a red light). Interestingly enough, there are several sprawling American bases in this area, including adjacent Bagnoli. This is not somewhere I would live, images of Pompeii flashed through my mind. I was happy to leave that eerie scene as we drove further west on to Cuma.
In Cuma, we stopped to photograph remains of an ancient Roman aqueduct and also walk along remnants of the ancient Roman road leading up to it (older than Rome?s ?Appian Way?). We also stopped to see the Acropoli di Cuma (8th century BC). Of course, the Romans built on this former Greek site, making it their own, building a forum and linking Cuma via tunnels to nearby Lago di Averno (once an important inland harbor for the Roman fleet). Virgil writes of the cave of the Sibyl in one of his accounts ? the cave is still there in the Acropoli today. The Acropoli was near empty and it as a pleasure to walk around in (in contrast to congested Pompeii or even nearby Ercolano Scavi (Herculaneum) outside of Naples). Capo Miseno, south of Cuma near Lake Fusaro, is where Pliny the Younger watched Vesuvius erupt in AD 79 and cover Pompeii.
From Cuma we drove southward to Baia, since pre-Christ times well into the 18th century it was one of Italy?s prime holiday resorts. Incidentally, Baia was a favorite of Emperor Caligula. He is credited with the huge feat of protecting the wide expanse of the bay of Baia across to Pozzuoli by building a huge bridge/causeway. However, due to the volcanic nature of the area and the ?Bradyseism?, most of ancient Baia (and Caligula?s bridge) is under the ocean and is called the ?Citta sommersa?. There are glass bottom boats you can take out there to see the submerged remains; unfortunately, we got there too late as the last boat left at 4:30 pm. It was now dark and there was nothing more we could squeeze into our day (alas!).
We drove back through town, watching festivities for San Gennaro Day (Naples patron saint) all around us (lots of lights, carnivals at churches, music bands, food booths, etc). Back at Pozzouli?s Metro station, we sadly departed from my friends and headed back to the Circumvesuviana station in Naples, then on to Sorrento. It had been a very full, enjoyable day. I intend to go back to the area and give it the attention and time it deserves (at least 2 or 3 days of extensive investigation).
We arose early the next morning to greet Salvatore (of Curreri cars) and splurged (70 euros) on a Mercedes drive into Naples and Capodichino airport for our return flight home. We had a wonderful trip and I am always so sad to return home!
I began my 3-week trip by flying from the West Coast into Milano?s Malpensa airport, arriving at 10:15 am. From the airport, I took the white Malpensa Shuttle bus (located outside the terminal on the baggage claim level) for 4,50 euros (adult) and 2,25 euros (child) for the 50-minute drive into town and to the Milano Centrale train station. I bought 2nd class train tickets to Monterosso al mare (Cinque Terre). My ticket cost 20,02 euros total, plus 10 euros (?) child?s discount ticket and the train left at 12:10 pm, with a stop in Rapallo (2:17 pm, dep 2:29 pm), arriving in Monterosso al mare at 3:18 pm. The total trip time is listed at 3h08m, however, it is never this precise. (I take this route about 6 times a year and it is very easy to negotiate; often stopping in Genoa, Sestri Levante, and/or La Spezia before reaching the Cinque Terre. I do wish there was a non-stop train on this route because I am impatient to get there!)
In Monterosso, I stayed at Affittacamere ?Unico? (Via XX Settembre, 22 Telephone: 011.39.0187.817714, email: [email protected]) The owner is Adriano Rossignoli (note that his English is very, very limited, if you know any Italian that will help you out) and he rents out 4 lovely rooms located in a residential building on Via XX Settembre, a small street less than 3 minutes? walking distance up from the main square, park, and beach. The location couldn?t have been more convenient and we loved our room overlooking the quaint street below! Each double room with bathroom (shower, hair-dryer, toilet, and bidet), TV and is only 60 euros a night (no credit cards, only euros/cash). Adriano is a personable, friendly man and handed me his stamped business card, recommending dinner at ?Ristorante Al Carugio? located close by on Via San Pietro, 9. The restaurant gives all ?Unico? hotel guests a 20% discount on meals if you mention and/or show his card. (I didn?t go there, however, I have heard that it is a good restaurant). Despite the fatigue from our 16-hour flight over that morning and train travel that afternoon (my 4 year old refused to sleep); we walked to the ?spiaggia? (beach) where it was still warm and plenty of people around (~5:30 pm). Later on, we ate dinner at ?Ristorante Al Pozzo?, Via Roma 24 (011.39.0187.817 575, owner is Gino Barilari). The restaurant staff was very friendly, the atmosphere great, and the food delicious. They had seating inside or outside of the restaurant and I decided dining al fresco (outside) would be more fun, watching all the passerby's. The bill with cover charge for 2, a Fanta, a Coke, and 2 huge plates (bowls?) of risotto al mare con funghi (seafood risotto with mushrooms ? delicious!!) came to 30,20 euros. Needless to say, that delicious dinner was eaten in haste, as that is when my daughter decided to sleep ? right there in the chair at the restaurant! It was amusing; I got a lot of kind smiles. (Note: you can avoid ordering duplicate plates of food if you tell the waiter in advance that your child does not eat a lot and that you would like an extra plate for him/her to share with you. I usually order 1 antipasto (if at all), 1 primi, and 1 secondi then ask for another plate to share the entire meal with my child. Likewise, this is an entirely do-able option for students, couples, or anyone else that doesn?t feel like eating a lot, yet wants to try to different dishes. The Italians did not frown down on that at all).
Another aside, Granita drinks (crushed ice with fruit flavors blended in, like a slush) abound all throughout Italy in the summer/fall with limone (lemon), menthe (mint), and fragola (strawberry) the reigning flavors. Occasionally, they alternate the fragola (strawberry) with rosso arancio (blood orange) and anguria (watermelon) ? my favorite. At 1,30-1,50 for a glass (approx. 8 oz), they are well worth the price for an instant cool down and flavor charge!
The next day I had to meet my friend down in Rome so I caught an early train (dep Monterosso at 7:29 am, via stop in La Spezia, arrives Rome at 12:14 pm. 2nd class tickets = 48 euros RT) to spend the day with her, have lunch, go shopping, etc. For the end of the first week of September, Rome was surprisingly not too crowded. The weather was hot, but not unbearable. The area around Termini, particularly down Via Giovanni Street, is full of ethnic shops, restaurants, vendors hawking their wares, etc. While it is certainly not the most attractive area in Rome, IMO it is not a seedy area, just an industrial area that is not very pretty nor are there many sites around there. (I usually stay in the Campo dei Fiori district when I am overnight in Rome). The area near Termini and environs around (my friend?s shop is located nearby off Via Principe Amedeo) has many Chinese, Indian, and even Thai restaurants around. She said it is hard to find an Italian restaurant in the area, believe it or not! During the day, a lot of locals, businessmen, etc frequent the area for discount shopping and unique dining. After lunch we walked over to Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II and the ?parco? there. We found a carousel, train ride, and lots of other fun kid rides to go on, plus the traditional swings, slides, etc. in the playground area of the park. After a full day of shopping and walking, we hopped on the 7:00 pm train back to Monterosso that night.
The following day we slept in a bit (an indulgence) then walked around Monterosso looking at the shops and sightseeing. In the afternoon, we took a 5Terre boat (14,00 euros total RT for the both of us) to Portovenere. I?ve been there a couple times before but never with my little girl. We walked up and around Lord Byron?s Grotto and the fortress, church, and cemetery areas. Took lots of photos overlooking the beautiful Golfo dei Poeti, ate a gelato and sat on a bench alongside the little dock area with the other locals. The 2.5 hours we were there was plenty of time to see everything. That evening we dined at my favorite restaurant owned by some friends of mine, ?Il Porticciolo? in Manarola (Via Renata Birolli, 92 Tel 011.39.0187.920.083), it is located midway down the main street through Manarola, on the R side as you are facing the harbor. Our meal total of 21,43 euros was one of the most delicious on our trip and included the cover charge, large bottled water, insalata di mare (seafood salad-antipasti), trenette al pesto (primi), frutti di mare misto (mixed fried seafood platter-secondi), limone torta (lemon cake-dolci) e a glass of crema di limone (limoncello version-aperitif). Superb!
The next day (Sunday), we took the 10:00 am train up to Genova. I wanted to spend the day there sightseeing and go to the famous aquarium. I had read that the aquarium was about a 15-minute walk from Genova?s Principe train station, that was more or less true. It was easy to negotiate as the general direction of Genova?s port is to the R and down from the station. However, there was quite a bit of construction (scaffolding, building refacing, remodeling, etc) going on at the train station so some exits were closed off. I stopped at a couple local shops enroute to the port for some water, fruit, etc to take along the way and found everyone to be pleasant and accommodating. I wanted to see the ?Palazzo Reale? and kept my eyes open for it as we walked along Via Balbi. From the street, its façade blends in with the other adjacent buildings, and it is often overlooked. However, inside the courtyard area it is magnificent. The black and white stone/tile work in the gardens in the back is magnificent, as are the koi fish and turtles abounding in the water fountain and decorative pond. There are limited views of the city port area, although mostly obstructed by cranes and ships. Lucky for us, the art collection/museum inside the Palazzo Reale was free that day (I read that Sundays it was free) so that was even better. It happened to be free that day (Sunday)?
Upon arriving at the port, ate lunch at a local seaside restaurant and spent 17 euros for a large margherita pizza and 2 sodas. Because I have a child, Genova was very important to me because the city touts itself as the city of children. So much so, in fact, that they have a ?city for children? (bambini) on the waterfront promenade, housed in a huge building portside. There is a museum, discovery center inside, etc. I spotted a waterfront ristorante (La Banchina ? pizzeria/focacceria) where we ate a quick 8,30 euros lunch - cover charge, a large margherita pizza, and large bottled mineral water ? enough for the 2 of us. Just before the entrance of the aquarium, we spotted the large galleon that was used in the ?Pirates of the Caribbean? movie docked quietly next to the other, less imposing boats. The Genoa aquarium cost 7,50 euros for me, 5 euros for my ?bambina? and was well worth the price. We ended up spending about 3 hours in there.
After the aquarium, we walked over to ?Il Bigo? which is a large, white, pole-like structure in the harbor that has a glass elevator that takes you 130 feet up to the top for some terrific views of Genoa?s harbor. The fare was reduced because I showed my aquarium ticket, my child was free!
I took my child to the main square park in Monterosso nearly every night, we had a routine, played with all the other local children until 10:00-10:30 pm (late for us!) and then ate a gelato at the gelatteria adjacent. We visited family friends in Riomaggiore for 3 days, eating lunch and dinner with them until the wee hours of the night.
Some more restaurants in Monterosso that we ate at and enjoyed immensely: returned for dinner to Ristorante Al Pozzo (Via Roma, 24 in Monterosso) and paid 38,40 euros for a dinner that included the cover charge, Coke, insalata caprese, spaghetti pomodoro, steak filet. Ristorante ?Il Gabbiano? (?sea gull?) Via Fegina, 84, Tel 011.39.0187.817 578, located right along the waterfront promenade. Paid 43,00 euros for cover charge, bread/grassini basket, large bottle mineral water, ravioli con funghi, linguine al pesto, seafood risotto, frutti di mare misto (fried seafood). Fish is so fresh and delicious in the CT and we try to eat it every day while there to get our fill! We reluctantly left Monterosso mid-week (Weds) after 7 blissful days in the Cinque Terre.
Next stop - Tuscany and Lucca (one of my favorite towns) so we could go to Pinocchio Park in nearby Collodi. One-way 2nd class train ticket from Riomaggiore to Lucca cost 6,35 euros, took 2 hours with a stop in Viareggio. We stayed at ?Hotel Diana? (Via del Molinetto, 11 Tel 011.39.0583.492.202/Fax 011.39.0583.467.795 www.albergodiana.com) for 67 euros a night for a double room with bathroom. It was located very close to the city walls near Porta San Pietro and only 500 meters (~15 minute walk) from the train station. Since we had missed lunch while on the train, we stopped in to revive ourselves at the best little bakery I have even been to in Lucca, ?Il Forno Cei & Cianelli? (off Piazza S. Maria B 9). For only 1,78 euros, I stocked up on macaroons, chocolate haystacks, bread, and cookies which we took to our hotel. After wandering through Lucca looking at familiar sites in the late afternoon, we then ate a delightful, big dinner at my favorite restaurant, Trattoria Da Leo (Via Tegrimi, 1 Tel 11.39.0583.492.236) for only 32,40 euros that included cover charge, bread/grassini basket, 2 beverages, 1 large bottled water, 2 primis-spaghetti con crema al funghi/quattro formaggio ravioli, 1 secondo/fiorentina steak, 1 contorno/plate of potatoes).
The next day, I walked to Piazzale Verdi mid-morning to catch a LAZZI bus for Pinocchio Park. I paid 3,20 euros a ticket and took the bus to the Ponte D?Alba stop and then walked 25 minutes to the entrance of Pinocchio Park. Across the street from the Pinocchio Park is the famous Villa Garzoni, where Napoleon is reputed to have stayed. While the Villa is under reconstruction and remodeling, the gardens are open and nearly all the fountains functioning. It reminded me of a small-scale combination Tivoli Garden and Caserta Palace garden rolled into one. There are a couple cafes and restaurants outside and in front of Pinocchio Park that are over-priced but not as much as the food inside the park. Caprese salad, a large margherita pizza, bread and cover charge cost me 27 euros. I picked up a Pinocchio tee shirt next door for 7 euros (again, a bargain compared to the doubled prices inside Pinocchio Park). The entrance to the park is unobstrusive and not very well marked. I found the 15 euros price (8,50 euros/adult, 6,50 euros/child) rather overpriced as I later learned that all the rides cost additional money once inside. For those that have never been to Pinocchio Park, do not go expecting a typical U.S. amusement park (i.e. Disneyland), this was a park comprised of manicured trees/bushes, mosaic wall designs, statuettes throughout, and a huge whale that you could walk into the mouth/teeth of the animal. The overall atmosphere is more of a park with common 1 euro rides one would find at any local Italian park (a carrousel, little boats). There was a nice one-man puppet show that was entertaining and fun for all. The one cafeteria/snack bar on the premises offered over-priced items for consumption. After 4 hours, we left to make the long walk back to the bus stop on the main road in Collodi, and then returned to Lucca by 5:30 pm.
I had seen an air bill/poster advertising a series of Puccini concerts being held in Lucca in September and October on Thursday evenings. Paid 25 euros total for the 2 of us to attend a Puccini concert (?A Night at the Opera?) given in the San Giovanni Basilica. My little girl was the only child there amongst all the adults. She absolutely loved the concert and continued singing ?arias? and bowing days afterward. It was a wonderful experience for her (and me!). After the concert, we wandered off the beaten path and stumbled upon ?Ristorante da Francesco?, Corte Portici, 13 Tel 011.39.0583.418.049) and spent 26,50 euros on a very filling, delicious dinner (incl. cover charge, bread, insalata caprese, tagliatelle con funghi, penne alla bologonese, roasted ? chicken and garlic rosemary potatoes, large bottle of mineral water). Highly recommended. Little did I know this was a ?Let?s Go!? and Fodors recommendation too ? excellent choice!
Spent the next day shopping around Lucca, including my favorite, UPIM. I stocked up on summer sale merchandise marked down to 2 and 5 euros, respectively. Also, found another store (La Primula Verde SRL) with exceptional deals on summer sundresses, polo shirts, knitted T-shirts, etc at only 3 euros each! Took a shopping break for lunch at ?Ristorante Antica Locanda dell?Angelo? Via Pescheria, 21 Tel 011.39.0583.467.711) and spent a pricey 46,00 euros that included a cover charge, zuppa di faro (typical Tuscan bean soup with pasta), spaghetti with clams, mixed seafood grill platter, and a large bottle of mineral water.
After 3 days in Lucca, we left on Friday for Livorno. Took 1-hour train to Livorno, then hopped on #2 bus to my friends? hotel. Albergo Cavour (Via Adua, 10 Tel 011.39.0586.899.604) is indeed a steal with prices ranging from 30-50 euros a night for a double room, some rooms with bath, and some rooms nearly as large as a suite. Our double room with bathroom across the hall cost 40 euros. Livorno makes a good base for those catching a ferry boat over to Corsica, as well as a base for exploring Tuscany. It is central to everything and off the tourist?s beaten path. Ate dinner that night at ?Ristorante La Vecchia Senese? Via del Tempio, 14 Tel 011.39.0586.892.560) 35,00 euros for insalata caprese, tagliatelle con funghi, linguine al pesto, mixed seafood platter, and large bottle of mineral water.
The next day wandered around Livorno, shopping, went to a local park, had an expensive (but good) 37,50 euros lunch at ?Ristorante Gennarino? Via S. Fortunata, 11. They take AMEX! Dinner later that night was back at ?Ristorante La Vecchia Senese? for only 14,00 euros (cover charge, 2 margherita pizzas, 1 large bottle mineral water).
The next day (Sunday) decided to go to Volterra. However, given bus and train schedules on Sundays, I would not recommend trying to travel on this day (festivo) to off-the-beaten-path places unless one has a car. We took the ATL bus from Livorno (2,60 euros per ticket) to Cecina. Then walked to Cecina train station for connecting bus (if any) up to Volterra. As luck would have it, there was only 1 bus that day and it had already left at 11:00 in the morning. I found an amiable taxi driver to take us up to Volterra and (thankfully!) he took Visa so I paid the 59,00 euros for the 1 hour ride there. Volterra is definitely worth seeing at least once. It is a small, Etruscan town famous for its alabaster. The views atop the Tuscan valley looking down at the varied landscape below were stupendous ? better than those even from Siena. We stopped for a late lunch (2:00 pm) at ?Ristorante Nazionale? Via dei Marchesi, 11 Tel 011.39.0588.862.84) and spent 16,30 euros that included cover charge, prix-fixe lunch (mixed salad, macaroni with cheese for my child, roasted chicken with potatoes, side of vegetables), tiramisu dessert, ? liter bottle of mineral water. Fortified by lunch, we walked up to the Etruscan acropolis ruins (in a park-like setting); my child loved the park and the kid things to play on. Unfortunately, it began to rain and we left. After ducking in and out of shops to keep dry and buying lots of alabaster items (small), the rain stopped and we walked over to the Roman amphitheatre ruins. Wow, amazing preservation into the hillside, again with awesome views over the valley beyond. Walked to the 2 different city gates (porta) to see the Etruscan, then Roman architectural influences on the city. After an afternoon of exploration, we took a CPT bus down from Volterra to Cecina (1,55 euros). In Cecina, there was another bus to transfer to the Cecina train station a short distance away. From there, we hopped on the train back to Livorno (2,60 euros). After a late (10:30 pm) dinner at ?Ristorante Gennarino? again, we called it a night.
Monday afternoon we left Livorno for the south (Campania). After a train stop in Roma?s Termini station, we connected to another train down to Naples. From Naples, we got on the Circumvesuviana train (3,20 euros) for the 1-hour ride into Sorrento. Our lodging was at the Hotel Lorelei e Londres, Via Califano, 12 (Tel 011.39.081.807-3187/Fax 011.39.081.532.9001) and it was a perfect choice. I opted for a taxi ride from the Circumvesuviana station since I had my stroller, luggage, and bags to carry (too many souvenirs!) and paid 12 euros for the lift to the Lorelei. The Lorelei e Londres is very conveniently located in Sorrento (a 10-12 min walk from the station and town) and its seaside perch above the Marina Grande offers breathtaking views of the coastline below. Our double room with sea view, complete with a walkout terrace that overlooked lemon groves, the Bay of Naples, Mt. Vesuvius, etc. included breakfast, cost 96,00 euros. I would stay there again any day. The hotel has a restaurant on-site that serves delicious meals that are then conveniently billed to your room.
After a leisurely start the following day, we took the SITA bus (2,40 euros) from outside the Circumvesuviana station to Amalfi. The views along the narrow coastline road were wonderful; the sea was sparkling and clear. We passed through Positano and got to Amalfi in about 1.15 minutes time. After looking at the Duomo, and nearby shops, we ate lunch at ?Ristorante S. Andrea? Piazza Duomo, 26 (Tel 011.39.089.871.023) for 17 euros (included cover charge, 3 beverages (we were thirsty!) and a large margherita pizza).
From there we walked to Atrani, a small town immediately adjacent to Amalfi and about 10-15 minutes around the bend heading southward. Atrani is a very small town without the crowds that Amalfi has and it was delightful to spend the afternoon on their uncrowded beach (compared to Amalfi?s) and walk through the quiet streets. After a relaxing afternoon, we walked back to Amalfi and I stocked up on souvenirs at ?Antichi Sapori d?Amalfi? a little shop adjacent to the Duomo at Piazza Duomo, 30. The owner had a sale of limoncello in different glass shaped bottles with multi-colored liqueurs for only 2 euros a bottle. There was also lots of lemon-scented soaps, lemon bath products, lemon candies, colored marzipan, etc. I stocked up on everything for only 19 euros! After all that walking and shopping, we stopped to buy double gelato cones (and some pastries to take back to the hotel) for 6,40 euros total at Bar Francese. We happily ate our gelato and people-watched until it was time to head back to the SITA bus for our return to Sorrento.
The following day I had business up in Rome, so we took the Circumvesuviana train very early into Naples, and then transferred to another train (Naples-Rome). I enjoyed the brief reprieve in Rome and am very comfortable there. Unfortunately, that was the day certain busses were on strike and the ever-popular #40 wasn?t running so everyone jumped on the #64; and consequently the bus was jammed like sardines. My poor little girl and I were stuffed in by the door, along with the stroller. It was not a pleasant experience nor was the ride to the Campo dei Fiori and the Piazza Farnese. After my early afternoon meeting, we ate a pizza lunch at Café Farnese (9,60 euros) and then did more shopping around the Campo and also at the UPIM in Termini before heading back down south on a 7:00 pm train to Sorrento. We ate a late dinner at ?Ristorante da Gigino? Via Degli Archi, 15 in the heart of Sorrento, off Via S. Cesareo. It looked like a tourist trap, complete with a strolling band that was serenading the Brits and others with ?O Sole Mio?; however, given the late hour (10:00 pm) it was about the only place still open that looked good. It was not a disappointment. Paid 34,00 euros that included cover charge, 1 primi plate of spaghetti with mixed seafood/mussels, etc, 1 secondi plate of a huge fresh fish (similar to a trout in taste) that was lightly breaded and fried (delicious), insalata caprese, and a 1 litre bottle of mineral water. The fish plate alone was enough for the two of us! (Incidentally, I did notice that our service was better than the other tables (of tourists) around us. We got our insalata caprese antipasto long before others even got their basket of bread and they had been sitting there before we arrived. Again, I think it helped that they thought we were Italian!)
After a torrential downpour in Sorrento the next morning (it flooded the hotel lobby floor!), I waited until the weather cleared then ventured into Naples to meet my friends. They live in the Vomero district, high above the chaos and madness of the city. It was nice to spend a pleasant, tranquil day in one of the most loveliest areas in Naples (IMO). After a full day of shopping and sightseeing, we returned for dinner at their home (of the many delicious dishes we ate, I loved a specialty of the Naples area - traditional potato ?croquets? ? yummy!). My friends were kind enough to drive us back to Sorrento and the Lorelei, sparing us nighttime travel on the Circumvesuviana train.
The next day dawned clear and bright and was the perfect day for a boat ride. We caught a Metro Del Mare boat from Sorrento to Amalfi (6 euros/adult, 2,00 euros/child) and rode on choppy seas down the coast to Amalfi. From there we took a SITA bus to Cetara. I wanted to explore this little town and go somewhere I hadn?t been. We walked down to the tiny beachfront/harbor and my child played with some of the other children there, dodging in and out amidst small, docked boats. We walked back through town and got a gelato and did some window-shopping. Cetara was a bit of a disappointment as I had thought it would have been a bit more lively. Perhaps Minori and Maiori would have been better choices as there were more people milling out and about in those towns then I ever viewed in Cetara. We returned to Sorrento after dark and ate a late dinner at a local bar/pizzeria near Piazzo Tasso. My child had to have her green ?menthe? granita as dessert ? of course!
We returned to Naples to visit my friends again the following day. This time we explored the city more. We ate at Naples? famous ?Pizzeria Port?Alba? near the ancient Porta Alba in Piazza Dante, and paid 15 euros total for 3 people (Pizza ?Doc? & margherita pizza, and a 1 litre bottle of mineral water). We walked through the impressive Galleria Umberto I; peeked inside the Teatro San Carlo opera house; strolled through the gardens of the Palazzo Reale; then out to the piazza Municipio. I had been to Naples two times before on previous trips and had already seen some of its more known landmarks. This was more of a leisurely stroll with no distinct agenda in mind. It was nice to enjoy Naples this way, ordinarily I am wary and on guard (having been robbed there 1 year previous), but with my friend, I felt comfortable and actually enjoyed the chaos and bedlam around me!
I returned to Naples again the next day, this time we did have an agenda: visiting the Campi Flegrei (Phylgrean Fields) and ancient historic areas northwest of Naples. As an historian, this area is of immense interest to me and I had read up a lot on it. My friends were thrilled to show it to me and were excited that I, as an American, even knew about the area. It was wonderful to see all this history, right in the middle of everything, with nothing removed or destroyed. Modern Naples has just grown up around it. Tour books have traditionally referred to this area as ugly; however, I would say it is oft overlooked by tourists and therefore does not receive the attention or refurbishment other spots may.
We started in Pozzuoli (founded by Greeks in 530 BC as bulwark against Etruscans, Romans renamed it Puteoli and made it a colony in 194 BC). There are extensive Roman ruins throughout this once-thriving city. The macellum is located down near the port and is the ancient fish and meat market. It is commonly known as the Tempio di Serapide (Temple of Serapis). Much of this structure has been submerged underwater due to ?Bradyseism? (bubbling, rising, sinking volcanic earth) in the area and it makes for a very interesting photograph (looks like something out of ?Lord of the Rings? or ?Star Wars? because of the round circle of pillars in the middle, half sunken in the earth). Located northeast of the port is the 40,000 seat capacity Anfiteatro Flavio (Flavian amphitheatre), it was the ancient world?s 3rd largest after the Colosseum in Rome and the amphitheatre in Capua (where Spartacus fought). It was begun under Nero; however, most of it was built during Vespasian?s rule (AD 70-9). While this amphitheatre is not as frequented nor as popular as its Roman counterpart (the Colisseum), surprisingly it is in more disrepair and decay.
A short drive away and we were in the middle of an area known as Solfatara, literally burning sulphoric steam and bubbles rising from the ground over a dormant volcanic crater. The streets are paved right over and adjacent to this phenomenal site, I had never seen anything like that (imagine seeing hot steam coming out of the ground next to you while you are waiting at a red light). Interestingly enough, there are several sprawling American bases in this area, including adjacent Bagnoli. This is not somewhere I would live, images of Pompeii flashed through my mind. I was happy to leave that eerie scene as we drove further west on to Cuma.
In Cuma, we stopped to photograph remains of an ancient Roman aqueduct and also walk along remnants of the ancient Roman road leading up to it (older than Rome?s ?Appian Way?). We also stopped to see the Acropoli di Cuma (8th century BC). Of course, the Romans built on this former Greek site, making it their own, building a forum and linking Cuma via tunnels to nearby Lago di Averno (once an important inland harbor for the Roman fleet). Virgil writes of the cave of the Sibyl in one of his accounts ? the cave is still there in the Acropoli today. The Acropoli was near empty and it as a pleasure to walk around in (in contrast to congested Pompeii or even nearby Ercolano Scavi (Herculaneum) outside of Naples). Capo Miseno, south of Cuma near Lake Fusaro, is where Pliny the Younger watched Vesuvius erupt in AD 79 and cover Pompeii.
From Cuma we drove southward to Baia, since pre-Christ times well into the 18th century it was one of Italy?s prime holiday resorts. Incidentally, Baia was a favorite of Emperor Caligula. He is credited with the huge feat of protecting the wide expanse of the bay of Baia across to Pozzuoli by building a huge bridge/causeway. However, due to the volcanic nature of the area and the ?Bradyseism?, most of ancient Baia (and Caligula?s bridge) is under the ocean and is called the ?Citta sommersa?. There are glass bottom boats you can take out there to see the submerged remains; unfortunately, we got there too late as the last boat left at 4:30 pm. It was now dark and there was nothing more we could squeeze into our day (alas!).
We drove back through town, watching festivities for San Gennaro Day (Naples patron saint) all around us (lots of lights, carnivals at churches, music bands, food booths, etc). Back at Pozzouli?s Metro station, we sadly departed from my friends and headed back to the Circumvesuviana station in Naples, then on to Sorrento. It had been a very full, enjoyable day. I intend to go back to the area and give it the attention and time it deserves (at least 2 or 3 days of extensive investigation).
We arose early the next morning to greet Salvatore (of Curreri cars) and splurged (70 euros) on a Mercedes drive into Naples and Capodichino airport for our return flight home. We had a wonderful trip and I am always so sad to return home!
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Ooops! I don't know why all my quotation marks came out as annoying question marks throughout my trip report. I'm sorry, I hope it is still readable....not sure how they changed when I transferred this over from a Word doc.
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Huitres,
thank you for posting your report. We've been in Italy many times and lived there for a while when our kid was 5 year old (we did not really speak a language but picked up some a bit).
Later on we traveled to Italy quite a few times with our kids when they were older and we can afford better accommmodations and restaurants.
But in both cases, on limited budget and higher budget, we always enjoyed the country and people, they were always good to us.
Now I am particulary interested in your report, beacuse we own a travel agency and I design independent trips for many families. Your impressions are very helpful, even though different travelers prefer different accommodations but the activities and restaurants and things you've done with your child and described here are very helpful for family travelers. Thank you!
thank you for posting your report. We've been in Italy many times and lived there for a while when our kid was 5 year old (we did not really speak a language but picked up some a bit).
Later on we traveled to Italy quite a few times with our kids when they were older and we can afford better accommmodations and restaurants.
But in both cases, on limited budget and higher budget, we always enjoyed the country and people, they were always good to us.
Now I am particulary interested in your report, beacuse we own a travel agency and I design independent trips for many families. Your impressions are very helpful, even though different travelers prefer different accommodations but the activities and restaurants and things you've done with your child and described here are very helpful for family travelers. Thank you!
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#8
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Great report. I don't have little ones any more but enjoyed reading about your adventures with your child. I wish we could have been able to afford such trips with our children when they were young but look forward to traveling with grandchildren some day. Your report was a very good view of a different but fun way to travel. Thank you. You are a great parent to give your child the gift of travel at such a young age and bilingual too. Good for you!
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Oh Huitres, I have been waiting for your report and I'm so glad you posted it. I remember when you wrote about getting robbed when you were on the bus in Napoli last time. It is so refreshing to read about the places you visited that are off the typical tourist track, thank you.
I have always been curious about my favorite little character's park (Pinocchio). Have you read the original story, it is not the cutesy Disney version that is for sure.
Your daughter is so lucky to have a patient, generous mother, she will remember these trips for the rest of her life. I commend you for facing train travel with a young child, a stroller and luggage! I can't even manage it well with my one bag!
Really, Huitres, thank you for the information on hotels and restaurants, I am going to print them out.
Tell us some of the adventures of your daughter, it seems she makes friends easily. Maybe because her life outlook has been expanded because of you.
I have always been curious about my favorite little character's park (Pinocchio). Have you read the original story, it is not the cutesy Disney version that is for sure.
Your daughter is so lucky to have a patient, generous mother, she will remember these trips for the rest of her life. I commend you for facing train travel with a young child, a stroller and luggage! I can't even manage it well with my one bag!
Really, Huitres, thank you for the information on hotels and restaurants, I am going to print them out.
Tell us some of the adventures of your daughter, it seems she makes friends easily. Maybe because her life outlook has been expanded because of you.
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Thank you all, it's funny, I never see myself traveling on a budget, per se. I don't see paying 200-300+ euros a room for some place I will only be in for 8 hours of my 24 hour day! I have been fortunate to find terrific little places that don't compromise on quality for the little price.
Yes, indeed my little one is most fortunate to have traveled at her age - I had to wait until I was in college! I am only hoping that the language sticks (she is in an Italian school on the weekends here in California).
I am an archaeologist and historian and have conducted tours of many of the areas I repeatedly visit in Italy. I love it there so much and hope to move there one day soon!
Yes, indeed my little one is most fortunate to have traveled at her age - I had to wait until I was in college! I am only hoping that the language sticks (she is in an Italian school on the weekends here in California).
I am an archaeologist and historian and have conducted tours of many of the areas I repeatedly visit in Italy. I love it there so much and hope to move there one day soon!
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Huitres, excellent trip report, always wonderful to hear about different places that are not covered on the forum very often. I have been back from Italy for over two months now and have yet to do my trip report. I may have to visit a therapist soon if my trip report guilt gets any worse.
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To answer some questions....Castleton, I was robbed 1 year ago August outside of Piazza Garibaldi. Interestingly enough, I was with some other Italian friends who had business at the US Embassy that day. I had decided to take off and see the Archaeological Museum in Naples first, then take the Circumvesuviana train to Ercolano Scavi (Herculaneum). After looking through the Archaeological Museum (my then 3-year old daughter couldn't get over the mummified people from Pompeii arranged on the staircases!) She knew "the mountain came down and covered up all the people, the city", etc. and that is what she kept repeating on the entire trip.
We left the museum and stopped to buy a litre bottle of mineral water for 1 euros, then the shopkeeper told me that bus #204 went down to the Naples train station/Piazza Garibaldi.
After the purchase, I put my wallet in the basket under the stroller, under my daughter's seat, covered by a towel (it was hot that day!). We boarded the bus and a couple stops down, a strange looking woman got on and stood very close behind me (I was in the section where the strollers can be - mid-bus). I remember thinking that she had an poor Italian accent and with dyed red hair, looked very much out of place and certainly not Italian (I later learned she was probably Serbian or a recent immigrant into Italy). I noticed her talking to another woman and man across the way directly opposite from me. I then (stupidly) asked 'where is the Circumvesuviana station' and she leaned over from behind me and pointed out the window with her arm in front of my face. When the bus stopped in Piazza Garibaldi, I lifted up the water bottle from its spot lodged behind my daughter's back and started to carry the stroller down the bus steps. Not until I was halfway towards the Naples station did I look down to get out my wallet so I could buy some tickets. I started panicking when it was not there because it certainly was not in an obvious, visible place. We retraced our steps and I was very upset. Anyway, to make a long story short, I ended up walking to the Villa Communale and the U.S. Embassy there. They were mind enough to allow me use of the phone to stop all my cards and they encouraged me to report the theft. I was hesitant to do so because thought me, as a foreigner, would not have much say against someone there. I later learned that this woman operates a "ring" around the Piazza Garibaldi and that another individual at a local area restaurant had been robbed too. Needless to say, the experience certainly tainted my views of Naples and I was so sad because I was only 1 week into a 6 week trip - not the right way to start off a vacation!
I must admit I was wary to go back into Naples again this last time around, but did so anyway. It is unfortunate that there are so much historical remains in this once-beautiful city, yet it doesn't seem to be fully appreciated by the locals (IMO). The citizens lack the respect and civic pride that might give their city a better image.
SeaUrchin: Pinocchio Park and Collodi were a bit of a disappointment. I would have thought Italy would have done more to tout one of their famous sons - Carlo Collodi. The Disney version certainly embellishes the story and does make it more endearing than the Italian version. I found the overall story of Pinocchio as portrayed in Collodi to be a very sinister, dark one. Geppetto (his father) is a drunk (that is something Disney never incorporated into his version!); and Pinocchio was made to pay for his mistakes through (IMO, excessive disciplines) vs. he being treated as just a 'naughty boy' in Disney's version. I won't go back to Collodi again, but certainly Lucca (I LOVE Lucca).
My next goal is to go to a Puccini opera during the summer months at his Torre del Lago home outside of Lucca, about 40 minutes outside of Livorno.
We left the museum and stopped to buy a litre bottle of mineral water for 1 euros, then the shopkeeper told me that bus #204 went down to the Naples train station/Piazza Garibaldi.
After the purchase, I put my wallet in the basket under the stroller, under my daughter's seat, covered by a towel (it was hot that day!). We boarded the bus and a couple stops down, a strange looking woman got on and stood very close behind me (I was in the section where the strollers can be - mid-bus). I remember thinking that she had an poor Italian accent and with dyed red hair, looked very much out of place and certainly not Italian (I later learned she was probably Serbian or a recent immigrant into Italy). I noticed her talking to another woman and man across the way directly opposite from me. I then (stupidly) asked 'where is the Circumvesuviana station' and she leaned over from behind me and pointed out the window with her arm in front of my face. When the bus stopped in Piazza Garibaldi, I lifted up the water bottle from its spot lodged behind my daughter's back and started to carry the stroller down the bus steps. Not until I was halfway towards the Naples station did I look down to get out my wallet so I could buy some tickets. I started panicking when it was not there because it certainly was not in an obvious, visible place. We retraced our steps and I was very upset. Anyway, to make a long story short, I ended up walking to the Villa Communale and the U.S. Embassy there. They were mind enough to allow me use of the phone to stop all my cards and they encouraged me to report the theft. I was hesitant to do so because thought me, as a foreigner, would not have much say against someone there. I later learned that this woman operates a "ring" around the Piazza Garibaldi and that another individual at a local area restaurant had been robbed too. Needless to say, the experience certainly tainted my views of Naples and I was so sad because I was only 1 week into a 6 week trip - not the right way to start off a vacation!
I must admit I was wary to go back into Naples again this last time around, but did so anyway. It is unfortunate that there are so much historical remains in this once-beautiful city, yet it doesn't seem to be fully appreciated by the locals (IMO). The citizens lack the respect and civic pride that might give their city a better image.
SeaUrchin: Pinocchio Park and Collodi were a bit of a disappointment. I would have thought Italy would have done more to tout one of their famous sons - Carlo Collodi. The Disney version certainly embellishes the story and does make it more endearing than the Italian version. I found the overall story of Pinocchio as portrayed in Collodi to be a very sinister, dark one. Geppetto (his father) is a drunk (that is something Disney never incorporated into his version!); and Pinocchio was made to pay for his mistakes through (IMO, excessive disciplines) vs. he being treated as just a 'naughty boy' in Disney's version. I won't go back to Collodi again, but certainly Lucca (I LOVE Lucca).
My next goal is to go to a Puccini opera during the summer months at his Torre del Lago home outside of Lucca, about 40 minutes outside of Livorno.
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Thank you for the detailed explanation of your unfortunate experience. I am flying into Rome on my next trip for the sole purpose of finally visiting Naples before heading to points farther north. I am vacillating between going to Naples as a day trip, and seeing probably very little, or spending 2 nights there and getting more of a feel for the city. I am leaning toward the latter, and will probably stay near the P. Gesu Nuovo. I will be traveling alone, and it is helpful to know the circumstances under which your incident occurred.
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Ciao Gerardo:
I've been to Ravello before and liked it very much (with views to die for!). I had never heard of Minuta and Pontone though....thanks for the tips (next time!)
P.S. Castleton:
I would not let my experience in Naples deter you, I was pleased to have a much better experience this time around so my faith is renewed. But being forewarned is being forearmed, as they say.....I am glad that you are going forward with your plans to visit Naples. I would think 2 nights there would be terrific. I have stayed down by the seafront, in the Chiaia district off Via Partenope at "Le Fontane al Mare" hotel and was within walking distance to Molo Beverello/Stazione Marittima and the Castel Dell'Uovo, etc. It was adjacent to Villa Communale and very convenient.
I've been to Ravello before and liked it very much (with views to die for!). I had never heard of Minuta and Pontone though....thanks for the tips (next time!)
P.S. Castleton:
I would not let my experience in Naples deter you, I was pleased to have a much better experience this time around so my faith is renewed. But being forewarned is being forearmed, as they say.....I am glad that you are going forward with your plans to visit Naples. I would think 2 nights there would be terrific. I have stayed down by the seafront, in the Chiaia district off Via Partenope at "Le Fontane al Mare" hotel and was within walking distance to Molo Beverello/Stazione Marittima and the Castel Dell'Uovo, etc. It was adjacent to Villa Communale and very convenient.
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Huitres, I really enjoyed your trip report. Where in California are you? We certainly like the same things (read my trip report on my recent trip to Italy with my almost-four-year-old and her one and a half year old sister at www.markandmonica.com/travel/italy.htm). We also love Lucca (best playground!) and Volterra.
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Castleton: Piazza Gesu Nuovo is right in the middle of Naples, near Piazza Dante (where I've eaten delicious pizza at Pizzeria Port'Alba several times). It is not the best area, perhaps closer to Piazza Municipio would be better (IMO) but it is up to you. Have you found a good hotel? Just avoid the area near or around the Piazza Garibaldi.
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I enjoyed your report! I am impressed with you AND your daughter's energetic schedule! I doubt if my 4 year old son will be as accomodating on our trip next summer.
I'm glad to hear you like Lucca -- I am considering renting an apartment there next summer with my 4 and 2 year old sons. I'd like to do a daytrip with them to Cinque Terre from there. We also would like to spend a week in southern Tuscany -- do you have any suggestions for children activities south of Siena? I imagine we will visit different villages/sights in the mornings, then return in the afternoon for nap/pool time.
I'm glad to hear you like Lucca -- I am considering renting an apartment there next summer with my 4 and 2 year old sons. I'd like to do a daytrip with them to Cinque Terre from there. We also would like to spend a week in southern Tuscany -- do you have any suggestions for children activities south of Siena? I imagine we will visit different villages/sights in the mornings, then return in the afternoon for nap/pool time.