Beyond Capri: an Ischia TR
Dec 21st, 2023, 06:09 PM
#22
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Taxi driver Pippo Cortese (334 341 5747) can be found most days down at Monzu cafe close by the bridge. He took us for a half-day on what he called a 'Hidden Corners' tour. Andiamo!
The previous shot showed the spiaggia at Sant Angelo. Above is the isle's largest village, Forio. Its motif is the whitewashed Chiesa del Soccorso. There is an excellent cafe located right by the parking lot between that iconic church and the Municipo. Ischia has 103 thermal springs, 95 thermal spas plus 67 fumaroles, and busy Forio has many of those amidst its outskirts.
Ischia also has an water viaduct down its middle called The Piastri Pillars. We were told that it was built in the 17c and was not as we'd assumed ancient Roman. Nitrodi is the name of one established old spa that markets its special drinking waters.
There is at least one stone sculptor on the isle. The tiny hamlet Panza has many aged stone houses, relics from a bygone time. One such structure has been made into an intriguing restaurant called 'Arca' over in Ciglio.
Everyday life across the island included the ubiquitous laundry hung to dry and also...
dogs taking their owners for a spin. We had to obey the traffic light at Piedimonte coz the road there narrowed in an untypical way.
Maronti beach is the best for beachcombers. Italian law states that everything must be left in place.
The assortment was a shutterbug's dream.
The view from Maronti beach to Capri. Just north is Barano/Buonopane, the rural locale where Stanley Tucci was once shown eating a rabbit dish in his Ischia episode. That restaurant was Il Focolare. A good overlook of Maronti can be had at 'Libeccio Cafe'. Cicero apparently used to visit the nearby 'Cava Scura' thermal springs at this very spot.
Sant Angelo is very popular with Germans, however their numbers are down after the Deutschmark-to-euro conversion. Angela Merkel is one of them---she owns a villa close by.
Sant Angelo is a great place to buy quality ceramic art. There is a wide variety of such pieces on sale there at shops where the isthmus starts to join with the Rock.
You can buy some straight-forward utilitarian stuff for the kitchen.
Or go high-end.
The village Lacco Ameno is where one finds one of the more attractive thermal spas on the island: Negombo. Its sheer variety of offerings from various massages, to different water-bathing designs, to unique pools, a coveted beach (shown here) and more, make this a good choice. Unfortunately, we'd been misled by a claim on Trip Advisor, wherein someone suggested that this spa was open off-season 'during weekends'. Not true. Sigh...
An annual Film Fest occurs at the snazzy Albergo Regina Isabella hotel in Lacco Ameno. This quintessential emblem of La dolce Vita is located there in the NW corner of Ischia in nearby Mortella Gardens. That luxe hotel felt very different from the spartan buildings in need of a paint job up in lofty Fontana village. Or the pza. Mardel Plata memorial to those impoversihes locals who once emigrated to Argentina.
In Lacco Ameno, we found this statue of Deus Neptune as well as the Fungo Rock, a mushroom-shaped oddity just off-shore.
Lacco Ameno golden hour.
This village also has the main hospital.
Typical food shop facade.
We concluded the tour in Cassa(micciola). It too had its own port. It also had the impossible-to-miss Menella bros clay art emporium, a large affair with a prominent outdoors display. Their products were bold statements and demanded closer observation. Ancient Roman themes abounded, and so did mythology.
Other products of theirs included large painted ceramic pieces.
This was a separate tile depicting the roots of their art trade.
It was the lead-up to Easter.
We were near semi-rural via Soranzano. This girl was walking with mom plus their dog, which was a cross between a German shepherd and a mammoth.
*Conclusion to follow: a) Porto Ischia b) a bit of Rome.
Last edited by zebec; Dec 21st, 2023 at 06:14 PM.
Dec 21st, 2023, 06:25 PM
#23
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Here's a song with a sort of Travel theme. I'd like to dedicate it now to all who may've viewed this TR. Its called 'Ends of the Earth' by Lord Huron. The lyrics are shown.
Molto Grazie to Baz, Ade, Eks, Tripplanner, KarenWoo, ANUJ, TrophyWife and AJPeabody. Oh yeah and Moderator1 too.
Molto Grazie to Baz, Ade, Eks, Tripplanner, KarenWoo, ANUJ, TrophyWife and AJPeabody. Oh yeah and Moderator1 too.
Dec 21st, 2023, 08:50 PM
#24
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Porto again, is oddly enough the main port on Ischia. After a few shots of this area, we'll wrap up. Romeward-bound.
It'd be interesting to learn about a typical day in the life of coastal police officers here. To keep us out of prison, I rehearsed this phrase, "Mia moglie ha la allergie primaverili. Lei non ha il virus covid. OK?"
Some of this pescatori's catch out on the sparkling sea might end up as a 'paranza' fried fish dish. Or he might sometimes catch 'ricci di mare (surprisingly sweet sea urchin). He himself might prefer 'ndunderi' (cheese walnut dumplings) or perhaps 'sarchiapone' (squash filled with meat and cheese). His wife might like 'pomodorelli della piennollo'. Dessert: 'mandorla candita'=candied almond gelato.
Porto was a lake until the 19C. Then the King had it opened into its current form. This waterfront building was his private fishing lodge.
Porto was for us now, a great place for a meal. But on July-August nights, one imagines that it could resemble Ibiza, Mykonos et al. *Pepe Manzi is another taxi driver who frequents the port: 339 40 52 691.
We enjoyed dinner at 3 places: *Aglio, Oilo & Pomodoro--circle that one. Outstanding A+. Near our Ponte rental. Second: Un Attimo di Vino Trapani-born Raimondo will do his best to create a special evening. He makes his own furniture (shown above, in Porto); Bisboccia bistro is down in Ponte by the bridge, next to their family bakery with its stone oven; patio enclosed in colder months.
Tranquillo. Sympatico.
Spare a thought for 2 unfortunate Italians. Local Gino Lucetti tried to assassinate Mussolini early on in '26 and spent the next 17 years in prison. He was freed in '43 only to lose his life soon after during bombing at Cape Miseno. Secondly at Pompeii: the unborn baby still in the womb recently revealed through modern x-rays--her agonized expression is surreal.
You can keep Capri. And tell Tiberius the news... *Now Roma.
It'd be interesting to learn about a typical day in the life of coastal police officers here. To keep us out of prison, I rehearsed this phrase, "Mia moglie ha la allergie primaverili. Lei non ha il virus covid. OK?"
Some of this pescatori's catch out on the sparkling sea might end up as a 'paranza' fried fish dish. Or he might sometimes catch 'ricci di mare (surprisingly sweet sea urchin). He himself might prefer 'ndunderi' (cheese walnut dumplings) or perhaps 'sarchiapone' (squash filled with meat and cheese). His wife might like 'pomodorelli della piennollo'. Dessert: 'mandorla candita'=candied almond gelato.
Porto was a lake until the 19C. Then the King had it opened into its current form. This waterfront building was his private fishing lodge.
Porto was for us now, a great place for a meal. But on July-August nights, one imagines that it could resemble Ibiza, Mykonos et al. *Pepe Manzi is another taxi driver who frequents the port: 339 40 52 691.
We enjoyed dinner at 3 places: *Aglio, Oilo & Pomodoro--circle that one. Outstanding A+. Near our Ponte rental. Second: Un Attimo di Vino Trapani-born Raimondo will do his best to create a special evening. He makes his own furniture (shown above, in Porto); Bisboccia bistro is down in Ponte by the bridge, next to their family bakery with its stone oven; patio enclosed in colder months.
Tranquillo. Sympatico.
Spare a thought for 2 unfortunate Italians. Local Gino Lucetti tried to assassinate Mussolini early on in '26 and spent the next 17 years in prison. He was freed in '43 only to lose his life soon after during bombing at Cape Miseno. Secondly at Pompeii: the unborn baby still in the womb recently revealed through modern x-rays--her agonized expression is surreal.
You can keep Capri. And tell Tiberius the news... *Now Roma.
Dec 21st, 2023, 09:25 PM
#25
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We ferried back to Naples, where there was a pre-Easter parade featured costumed Roman soldiers pestering a beleaguered Jesus. We then took the train up to Rome. It was 21 degrees there. **Excellent Rome female taxi driver: 'Mara' 39 347 658644. She helped us out of a serious jam at the very start to this trip, when Air Canada cancelled our original flight after we'd all spent hours on the tarmac. She truly went above and beyond.
Mrs Z and I have been to Rome several times, so by now we try to just rent in an area with a mind to sticking to its specific nearby sights. This time it was a flat directly across from S. Giovani Laterano. Hadn't been there in 33 years. That flat was OK. Just. *It was a residential apartment building whose front lobby entry door jammed constantly for everyone who lived there. That drove us nuts. For that reason, we will not be mentioning it here---you can do better.
Reflezione
Roman public bus.
Near Termini as part of the grounds of the fine Palazzo Cinquecento hotel and the Servian wall. Staff there were terrific when we arrived laaaaaaate, like the following-day late at 3am. We explained how the rocket surgeons at Air Canada had cancelled our original flight and well...young staffer Alessandro was so understanding and still honored our paid-by-points reservation. He also assisted with the complicated process of re-ordering our morning Frecciarosa train ticket. Now THAT'S service.
Downtown Rome.
Door of Basilica S. Giovanni Laterano, near the Scala Santa steps.
As above. Note security inspection entry tent. *We'll finish tomorrow.
Mrs Z and I have been to Rome several times, so by now we try to just rent in an area with a mind to sticking to its specific nearby sights. This time it was a flat directly across from S. Giovani Laterano. Hadn't been there in 33 years. That flat was OK. Just. *It was a residential apartment building whose front lobby entry door jammed constantly for everyone who lived there. That drove us nuts. For that reason, we will not be mentioning it here---you can do better.
Reflezione
Roman public bus.
Near Termini as part of the grounds of the fine Palazzo Cinquecento hotel and the Servian wall. Staff there were terrific when we arrived laaaaaaate, like the following-day late at 3am. We explained how the rocket surgeons at Air Canada had cancelled our original flight and well...young staffer Alessandro was so understanding and still honored our paid-by-points reservation. He also assisted with the complicated process of re-ordering our morning Frecciarosa train ticket. Now THAT'S service.
Downtown Rome.
Door of Basilica S. Giovanni Laterano, near the Scala Santa steps.
As above. Note security inspection entry tent. *We'll finish tomorrow.
Dec 22nd, 2023, 08:50 AM
#26
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Time to finish. Will preface this conclusion with a quote from the famed Canuck folk outfit Johnny Shandoo & the Broken Pediments:
"When we are young
wandering the face of the earth
wondering what our dreams might be worth
learning that we're only immortal for a limited time."
Intriguing object in our apartment lobby.
Via Foscolo was formerly known as Via Foscolo.
The Scala Santa is where devoted folks sometimes ascend the stairs on their knees.
Passerby across from basilica. He is summoning Vatican police to come arrest the evil camera-toting tourist.
Lighting the candles at the basilica Laterano.
Basilica facade.
Basilica floor marble. Seldom has the message ever been more true.
More marble. Elsewhere there was some remarkable poryphory burgundy-colored marble.
The 13C basilica cloister survived a pair of old fires. Its mosaics are special.
Some of the marblework at the adjoined Batistero (baptistry). Something about reminding us to all be good worker bees. But who gets the honey?
These two are peering into...
The chapel of St. Rufina. At first, I chided myself for having taken this shot. A lone young woman was in the front row, deep in concentration. I thought, "You dick. She's tryna' pray, so at least show some respect and leave her be."
(same room) Then as we were departing that quiet room, I noticed that far from the Bible that I'd assumed she'd been reading, it was in fact the latest Lonely Planet guidebook to Italy. LOL! Btw, it was the lead-up to Easter.
Misplaced bowling balls.
There was a lot of interesting art, enough to make a visit here worth your while even if you are not religious.
A sealed-off side room, where the Pope and others have met.
We enjoyed two brief visits to this basilica and its baptistry.
Rome has a smazillion churches and it pays to do some homework, then make selective choices.
Time to leave the basilica.
Outside in the main piazza, there is an ancient Egyptian obelisk plus this monument. For those who don't read Latin: "I pity the fool that missed the first part of this TR, titled 'Costa d'Amalfi.'
He sighs, "Zebec and his corny jokes. I just can't take anymore!"
Laterano square puddles.
Local menu. We try to seek out places to eat where the clientele is mostly locals. No easy task, let alone directly across from a major tourist attraction. Yet incredibly, Hosteria Cannavota fit that bill perfectly! We snagged the last seat during that pre-Easter weekend. Rock fans: the young waiter was a dead-ringer for a young Jimmy Page!
Local door-knocker. We also recommend the equally nearby 'Ristorante Sangia', a deli-cum-eatery very popular with local high-schoolers.
Local naked trees.
We left our neighborhood on foot. I was wearing brown socks.
Some places have gone through multiple name changes throughout history. Here is 17C Villa Massimo, err the Franciscans of the Holy Land HQ, err Giustiani al Laterano, err Casino Lancelloti. Its impressive façade featured Pamphilj doves, Mannerist eagles and lots of stucco. It was next to the Cambridge prep school Sta. Maria.
Our goal on this stroll was piazza Vittorio Emanuele II. Here is some of its marble sidewalk.
That park is quite popular, with its gardens, fountains and general relaxed vibe.
A good place to chill.
The park had this colorful art.
Note how each signee added a singular thematic wish-word by their name.
Famed historic Fasso gelato is not far off. It can get BUSY!! Expect substantial line-ups but friendly staff.
A youth rop-in center of sorts was located at this spot. Soccer training for younguns was in progress there.
An apartment lobby.
Italian style. We noticed Sal de Riso product for sale at the neighboring deli.
Rome got style--but you already knew that.
Not everyone was enjoying their days.
Gotta love the soft tones of Rome.
Rome never gets tired.
We'll leave you with this 'Viv Aldi' guy. Never heard of him.
"When we are young
wandering the face of the earth
wondering what our dreams might be worth
learning that we're only immortal for a limited time."
Intriguing object in our apartment lobby.
Via Foscolo was formerly known as Via Foscolo.
The Scala Santa is where devoted folks sometimes ascend the stairs on their knees.
Passerby across from basilica. He is summoning Vatican police to come arrest the evil camera-toting tourist.
Lighting the candles at the basilica Laterano.
Basilica facade.
Basilica floor marble. Seldom has the message ever been more true.
More marble. Elsewhere there was some remarkable poryphory burgundy-colored marble.
The 13C basilica cloister survived a pair of old fires. Its mosaics are special.
Some of the marblework at the adjoined Batistero (baptistry). Something about reminding us to all be good worker bees. But who gets the honey?
These two are peering into...
The chapel of St. Rufina. At first, I chided myself for having taken this shot. A lone young woman was in the front row, deep in concentration. I thought, "You dick. She's tryna' pray, so at least show some respect and leave her be."
(same room) Then as we were departing that quiet room, I noticed that far from the Bible that I'd assumed she'd been reading, it was in fact the latest Lonely Planet guidebook to Italy. LOL! Btw, it was the lead-up to Easter.
Misplaced bowling balls.
There was a lot of interesting art, enough to make a visit here worth your while even if you are not religious.
A sealed-off side room, where the Pope and others have met.
We enjoyed two brief visits to this basilica and its baptistry.
Rome has a smazillion churches and it pays to do some homework, then make selective choices.
Time to leave the basilica.
Outside in the main piazza, there is an ancient Egyptian obelisk plus this monument. For those who don't read Latin: "I pity the fool that missed the first part of this TR, titled 'Costa d'Amalfi.'
He sighs, "Zebec and his corny jokes. I just can't take anymore!"
Laterano square puddles.
Local menu. We try to seek out places to eat where the clientele is mostly locals. No easy task, let alone directly across from a major tourist attraction. Yet incredibly, Hosteria Cannavota fit that bill perfectly! We snagged the last seat during that pre-Easter weekend. Rock fans: the young waiter was a dead-ringer for a young Jimmy Page!
Local door-knocker. We also recommend the equally nearby 'Ristorante Sangia', a deli-cum-eatery very popular with local high-schoolers.
Local naked trees.
We left our neighborhood on foot. I was wearing brown socks.
Some places have gone through multiple name changes throughout history. Here is 17C Villa Massimo, err the Franciscans of the Holy Land HQ, err Giustiani al Laterano, err Casino Lancelloti. Its impressive façade featured Pamphilj doves, Mannerist eagles and lots of stucco. It was next to the Cambridge prep school Sta. Maria.
Our goal on this stroll was piazza Vittorio Emanuele II. Here is some of its marble sidewalk.
That park is quite popular, with its gardens, fountains and general relaxed vibe.
A good place to chill.
The park had this colorful art.
Note how each signee added a singular thematic wish-word by their name.
Famed historic Fasso gelato is not far off. It can get BUSY!! Expect substantial line-ups but friendly staff.
A youth rop-in center of sorts was located at this spot. Soccer training for younguns was in progress there.
An apartment lobby.
Italian style. We noticed Sal de Riso product for sale at the neighboring deli.
Rome got style--but you already knew that.
Not everyone was enjoying their days.
Gotta love the soft tones of Rome.
Rome never gets tired.
We'll leave you with this 'Viv Aldi' guy. Never heard of him.
Last edited by zebec; Dec 22nd, 2023 at 08:58 AM. Reason: arrested and sent back to Al Fodoria prison
Dec 22nd, 2023, 11:31 AM
#28
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I love your trip report, Zebec! Your photos are lovely works of art -- like small paintings -- and your commentary and soundtracks provided were perfect. I hope to follow in your footsteps sometime. Thank you.
Dec 22nd, 2023, 11:56 AM
#30
Thanks for the beautiful photos displayed and the marvelous trip report!
I really enjoyed your photos especially those portraits of the fishermen repairing the nets. Your photos depicted the everyday lives of the people on the island are beautiful! Thanks.
I really enjoyed your photos especially those portraits of the fishermen repairing the nets. Your photos depicted the everyday lives of the people on the island are beautiful! Thanks.
Dec 22nd, 2023, 12:25 PM
#31
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Zebec, I love, love your TR!!! Your photos, commentary, and music are amazing. After the holidays, when I have more time, I want to re-visit your photos. They are all so beautiful, the art, the statues, the people, the scenery, the street scenes, everything! I love that ceramic shop and I'm envisioning purchasing some of those ceramics! Did you buy any?
We really need to return to Italy. We spent a week in Rome and a day in Florence in the 70's but we want to return and spend about 6 weeks. I told my husband we have to start taking at least 3 big trips a year; otherwise, we might not live long enough to see all the places we want to see!
We really need to return to Italy. We spent a week in Rome and a day in Florence in the 70's but we want to return and spend about 6 weeks. I told my husband we have to start taking at least 3 big trips a year; otherwise, we might not live long enough to see all the places we want to see!
Jan 8th, 2024, 12:00 PM
#34
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Buongiorno everyone! Been hiding out from the hit squad sent by the Capri Turismo office.
Seriously, we're just now resurfacing after a lengthy computer restoration snafu.
Grazie encora to all who viewed this two-part TR about our AC trip from this past Marzio.
TW, Baz, Ade, TP, AJ, ANUJ, Eks, Cherthor, Susan, Karen and Kay--I appreciate your kind words and would be more than happy to further advise if any of you (or yours) might ever be AC-bound. I actually just advised 2 travelers here this morn.
*forgot to mention the following two facts:
1) Ischia was where Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton had their steamy, behind-the-scenes affair while working on the movie 'Cleopatra'.
2) Archaeologist Bettany Hughes included Ischia on one of her BBC travel series a couple of years ago. It was the episode that also featured Gibraltar, Delos and Malta.
Gotta go. Time to upload fotos from our most recent trip: southern Brittany this past fall.
I am done. The new computers.
Seriously, we're just now resurfacing after a lengthy computer restoration snafu.
Grazie encora to all who viewed this two-part TR about our AC trip from this past Marzio.
TW, Baz, Ade, TP, AJ, ANUJ, Eks, Cherthor, Susan, Karen and Kay--I appreciate your kind words and would be more than happy to further advise if any of you (or yours) might ever be AC-bound. I actually just advised 2 travelers here this morn.
*forgot to mention the following two facts:
1) Ischia was where Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton had their steamy, behind-the-scenes affair while working on the movie 'Cleopatra'.
2) Archaeologist Bettany Hughes included Ischia on one of her BBC travel series a couple of years ago. It was the episode that also featured Gibraltar, Delos and Malta.
Gotta go. Time to upload fotos from our most recent trip: southern Brittany this past fall.
I am done. The new computers.
