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Budman's Trip Report to Ireland

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Budman's Trip Report to Ireland

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Old Jun 5th, 2004, 11:51 AM
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The following morning we headed toward the Beara Peninsula. The drive to Kenmare was great, and the drive from Kenmare to Glengariff was equally as beautiful. We drove to Adrigole, up thru the Healy Pass which was majestic, back around the other side of the island thru Eyeries and around the bottom and to Castletownbere. We stopped there and had a nice pub lunch. It was a cute little town.

My only regret was time. I wanted to take the cable car out to Dursey Island -- next time.

We drove thru Bantry on our way out to the Sheep's Head Peninsula. What a great drive. About 3:30 it started to rain with the winds blowing at about 30 knots just as we got to the point to turn down to Sheep's Head.

We then headed to Goleen where we stayed at the Heren Cove B&B. Great view from the B&B, but it was low tide and the boats were all stuck in the mud. The room was large, but it was really "worn."

They had a restaurant below the rooms, but it was a little pricy. We had already made arrangements to have dinner at the Crookhaven Inn with HappyCheesehead. We rendezvoused at 7:30. We had a great time, great pub dinner, great Guinness, and made some Great new friends.

After dinner we had a pint at O'Sullivan's. What a neat place with a great view. We chatted with the bartender who told us that in the summer there are about 200 or so people all the time wandering around all the time having a few pints. We both wished we could have gotten rooms at the Galley Cove right in Crookhaven. They had a nice deck outside which I am sure had great views.

Found Brow Head and drove to the top -- what a great view. The fog was setting in, so we headed back to our respective B&B's. HappyCheesehead said they found a great farmhouse B&B near Toomore and showed us pictures. I'll let her tell you all about it.

I think we were probably the only tourists in all of Mizen Head, but we did bump into a couple of Brits at breakfast the following morning.
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Old Jun 5th, 2004, 11:58 AM
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viennese,

Should I put that ironing board cover on my Christmas list? I don't think so. That would be a great gift for a bachelor. Great German ingenuity.
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Old Jun 5th, 2004, 12:34 PM
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In the morning, headed out to Mizen Head. What a great place. Don't miss this place. After an hour or so at the Lighthouse, took the back roads around the northern side of the Peninsula. Great views. By the way, after doing Loop Head, Dingle, Beara, Sheep's Head, and Mizen Head, Kerry was the biggest disappointment, but I already said that -- just wanted to make sure you all heard me.

We next headed to Kinsale thru Castletownshend (had lunch at Mary Ann's -- didn't see the Banoffee on the menu). Thru Unionhall and Glandore. Wish we had more time to explore that entire area.

Kinsale was the only place we didn't have a reservation. Went to the tourist office and they booked us. Very basic, not memorable at all, but it was only a couple of minutes walk into town. The town wasn't as crowded as we had expected. Had a nice time walking around town looking into the various shops.

In Kinsale we ate at Jim Edwards. They have a pub with a restaurant next door. We ate in the pub. The nice thing was you could use both menus in the pub. Maureen ordered off the restaurant menu and I ordered off the pub menu. It was excellent, so was the Guinness. (a cut & paste from a previous post). Met some very nice people in Jim Edwards who had just arrived that day and trying to stay up to get over the jet lag. They were on a golfing tour and were going to play Old Head in the morning. 350 Euro for a round??

After breakfast, we headed to Cobh. What a great little town. Took the car ferry for 5 Euro round trip. They had a beautiful cathedral up on the hill in town. All of the locals kept telling us that on Sunday afternoon they played all sorts of wonderful music from the church bells. We were leaving Sunday morning for Bunratty, but if anyone is there on a Sunday, I understand this is a must hear.

We stayed at the Seafield - http://homepage.eircom.net/~allen/

Our room overlooked the harbor and had a little sitting, bay window area with a rocker. Maureen fell in love with this place. They have 4 rooms, 2 with front view, one with a side view, and one with a back view (a hill). I would highly recommend this place. Make sure you book early and ask for the front room with the sitting area -- it's on a first come, first served basis.

Cobh was a great little town to walk around in, and their Heritage Center with a great museum on the story of the emigrants to America, is a must see.

We had both lunch and dinner at a restaurant called Clippers. Right on the water and reasonable food.

On our last day, we headed to Bunratty by way of Cahir to view the castle. In total, it was about a 2 to 2 1/2 hour drive to Bunratty, but we had to go thru Limerick, and they were having a soccer or rugby match, and the road leading out of Limerick was on the same road to the stadium. We sat in traffic for about 3/4 hour.

Arrived in Bunratty and decided to have lunch at Mac's Pub prior to checking in to the B&B. Lunch was nice, but I couldn't believe that their Guinness prices were the highest we had encountered in all of Ireland. Most pints were about 3.2 or 3.3 Euro. We found one place that was 3.1, but Mac's was 3.7. I wrote it off to being in the middle of a fun "tourist trap."

Bunratty Lodge was great. We happen to be the only ones spending the night -- It was a break for Mary. Room was wonderful with power shower, great decorations, and towel heating bar.

Finished out shopping at Bunratty Mills and asked Maureen if she would like to go over to Durty Nellies for a pint. She said NO -- the place was "dirty."

We discovered a great pub called Kathleen's in the Bunratty Castle Hotel. That will be our future watering hole on any future trips.

Just our of curiousity, I asked the hotel clerk what the rate was, and he told me 182 Euro a night which included breakfast. The Bunratty Lodge for 70 Euro for the two of us was a steal.

In the morning it was raining, but we were leaving. Had a late breakfast then headed for Shannon. When I went to return the car, it was pointed out to me that there was a bubble in the left front tire, and tires were not covered under insurance. Oops!! I remembered the day before running into that curb to avoid that bus.

Well, including VAT and all, that was a $150 tire. I asked the agent if I could get the VAT back, but was told that was only for goods taken out of the country. I told her to bring it over so I could put it in with my checked baggage.

The duty free shop at Shannon is a great place for last minute shopping. The clerks even took a combination of Euros & Dollars -- the registers seemed to figure it out.

I turned in all my tax free slips into the duty free shop -- they had 3 different windows I had to go to for all the different slips I had. The refunds haven't hit my credit card yet.

The flight back was uneventful -- great to be back so I can plan my next trip.

That's all folks.
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Old Jun 5th, 2004, 01:54 PM
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I thought I posted these points, but I don't see them:

Only a couple B&B's had wash cloths -- if you need one, bring your own.

Only a couple B&B's provided bath soap, and when they did, it was those tiny little things. Bring your own "big" bar of soap.

None of the B&B's had shampoo. Be sure to bring your own.

Cost of Guinness: The cost of Guinness is going up .15 Euro a pint. .06 by the brewery, and .09 by the pubs who say they are losing money because of the no-smoking laws.

No smoking pubs -- Nice. Now you can have a pub meal. I noticed that most of the pubs had lunch for 8-9 Euro which included a meat, veggies, and potatoes, and brown bread. It's almost a dinner.
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Old Jun 5th, 2004, 03:23 PM
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and we found that the "Lunch" in several places was still being served into early evening (until 6 at one place in Clifden!).

and I'm already having brown bread withdrawal....

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Old Jun 5th, 2004, 04:01 PM
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Sounds like a fantastic trip for you and your wife Budman!!

We visited many of the same spots and yes, I went to church in Cobh and was a bit surprised as the cathedral on the hill was Protestant. And here I thought all churches in southern Ireland were Catholic. only joking!! We watched the many townspeople enter the church as well as their dogs and cats too. The animals sat or laid on the floor and were very quiet.

And no, we're still about two months away from good, fat, big crabs in Md.!
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Old Jun 5th, 2004, 04:45 PM
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LN, I can smell the Old Bay.
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Old Jun 5th, 2004, 07:36 PM
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Hey Budman!

We made it home today, and I am totally impressed that you have already done your trip report. Whew - pressure off me to race you!

What a great time we had meeting you and Maureen in Crookhaven for dinner and drinks! We had so much fun, and the time flew by way too quickly.

It was grand to see you again at the Mizen Head Lighthouse - what a beautiful morning. I will never forget how it was as long as I live. I still smile when I think how brave Maureen was crossing that bridge! She was a doll, and it truly was a blast to meet you both. Funny how people who have never "met" before can end up having so much to talk about.

We LOVED the Shores and guess what - we got the balcony room. We also met John and Fran there - the couple from Atlanta that you met in Kinsale and sent to Annette. They loved the Shores too, I am happy to report. We sat right next to them during dinner at the Shores on Monday night and shared your lovely handmade wine with them. You were right, dinner was delish! We just rolled our full bellies up to our room afterward and thought about how lucky we were to be able to experience travel like this.

Now time for me to feel my own bed for the first time in over two weeks - isn't that also one of the true pleasures of travel?






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Old Jun 6th, 2004, 05:49 AM
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HappyCheesehead,

Welcome back. Looking forward to hearing about your travels. Glad you liked the Shores. We really enjoyed out GTG.
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Old Jun 6th, 2004, 06:34 AM
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Budman, what a wonderful picture you painted of your trip. I would like some clarification again about Gap of dunloe and ROK. We leave from Dingle to go to Killarney and had planned on doing Gap on that day. Your report says tour picked you up from B and B. Can we drive to Kates to get jaunting cars and then where would we buy tickets for lake trip and is there a car park at Kates. Or do you suggset we go to ROK directly from Dingle and then next full day we have in Killarney to spend there , cos we would be able to do tour as you did, to Gap.Also we are staying at Murphys in Killarney do you suggset we just have dinner there, bearing in mind 2 kids 14 and 10.did you get to check out the accomodation at Murphys ?Thanks , Faye.
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Old Jun 6th, 2004, 06:52 AM
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Also, I noted your remarks about ROK,but being our first trip I feel I have to do it this time. Secondly, meals at the Shores sounds good, is it just for her guests tho and any recommendations then for dingle.
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Old Jun 6th, 2004, 07:21 AM
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Faye, I didn't notice anyone selling tickets for just the boat trip. When we embarked on the boats, we all showed our tickets from the tour company to get on. It seems different boats were for different tour groups. It was a bus/boat package for 25 Euro.

Kate's Cottage is about 6 or so miles outside of Killarney. You can park your car there.

We drove directly from Dingle to do the Ring of Kerry. I wish I could talk you out of doing the ROK, especially since you have a 10 & 14 year old. I think they would be bored to death doing the 4-5 hour drive.

I think your time would be better spent driving from Dingle and doing the Killarney National Park, Muckross House/Abbey/Ross Castle and walking over to the Waterfalls.

The following day, do the Gap of Dunloe. Murphy's could probably arrange it for you.

Now that you mention you are staying at Murphy's, I do remember it was right next door to the Pub. There's no place to park except in a pay lot around the corner. Parking was about 1 Euro an hour and free after 6:00pm. Are they going to provide parking for you?

You can eat at Murphy's, but I think your kids would enjoy the pizza at the Italian restaurant we found. You could even bring in a bottle of your own wine for yourselves. As I recall, it was only 2-3 blocks walking distance from Murphy's.

I sure wish I could talk you out of that ROK thingy. I believe dinner at the Shores was only for the guests. They had a menu of 4-5 apps/ main course/desserts. We placed our order with them in the morning as we headed out sightseeing. Seems they bought everything fresh.

Sure do wish I could talk you out of that ROK thingy.

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Old Jun 6th, 2004, 12:39 PM
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Budman, how did Mrs. Budman make out with her flat iron??

You are making me rethink my October trip. We will be there 9 nights in October (if I ever book the tickets...) and my plan has been to either head straight down toward Kinsale and work our way back up the coast, or do the reverse. We have been to Dingle and I know how phenomenal it is, so I think now that we will definitely save it for last. We've stayed in Bantry and have been out to Mizen Head, but haven't seen the Beara Penn or Killarney National Park. (My hubby wants to take the Dursey Island Cable car, but lucky me, I don't think it runs in October!

You mentioned that the Shores was a 20-25 minute drive from Dingle. Did you find it at all inconvenient for getting back and forth across the pass? I am thinking of spending two nights in Dingle, and now both you and Bill like Annette's B&B so much....

Thanks so much for your great report!
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Old Jun 6th, 2004, 02:38 PM
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allisonm, the flat iron was so so. It worked, but it just wasn't like the one she has.

We spent 2 nights at the Shores and didn't feel that the drive back & forth over the Conor Pass was a problem -- actually, it was enjoyable. If you prefer to stay in Dingle, there are also some nice places, but We preferred not to spend the extra $$$.

I forgot to mention in my trip report that Maureen invented a whole new language that I have never heard before of moans & groans as we traveled the narrow roads of Ireland.
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Old Jun 6th, 2004, 05:22 PM
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Have been discussing your opinion re:ROK with hubby and as he has left the planning to me he is willing to let me decide, and as you are quite definite in your ideas about it, I will take your suggestion and likely not do ROK, I do not want to hear the constant whine of "When will be be done " for a 5 hour period if you think they will be bored. I hear enough of that at home, so in order to have a pleasant day I think we will skip that part. We are doing Dingle penin. If you had to choose between Mizen Head and Beara which would you do. Would like to do one en-route from Killarney to Kinsale.Sorry for the numerous queries. Have a good week.Faye.
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Old Jun 6th, 2004, 05:29 PM
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Forgot something else, didd you book your gap tour before leaving home or once you got to Killarney. Do I sound obsessive to you about the details, i just do not want to miss out on anything and I am trying to pack in as much as possible without just skimming the surface too much.
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Old Jun 6th, 2004, 05:44 PM
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Faye, we booked the Gap when we got to the B&B the afternoon before.

As for Beara or Mizen Head, Mizen Head, without a doubt. It is something the kids would enjoy, and you too. You could get out of the car, walk around, enjoy the scenery, look at the museum, and there is a coffee shop there so the kids can snack.

Be sure to drive into Crookhaven and have a coke and a pint at O'Sullivans. Maybe have lunch at the Crookhaven Inn. A nice break and change of pace. Also drive up to Brow Head. You'll see the sign on your way into Crookhaven.

I don't want you to shoot the messenger for recommending not doing the ROK, but I just think your limited time would be best utilized doing other things.



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Old Jun 6th, 2004, 10:06 PM
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You can follow Rick Steves or Pat Preston, both of which books I have, but my personal tour planner is the "Budman" Having only 6 days to see Ireland our first time, I have tweaked our itineray repeatedly and hopefully we are now set.
Day 1 (June 27) Arrive Shannon from London. Do a loop including Knappouge Casle, Burren, Ballyvaughn, Cliffs, Lahinch, Kilkee to Kilrush (hillcrestview)

Day 2 golf at Ballybunion (we have an 11:30) then Conner pass to dingle

Day 3 dingle- with slea head loop/peninsula Greenmount house for 2 nights

day 4 drive to Killarny Natl Park Is there time to do the usual sites, plus the gap of dunloe? Staying in Kenmare at the Lodge.

day 5- The Budman rules- Glengariff to Bantry, skipping ROK in favor of Mizen Head. Then meander to Kinsale. Any must see stops between mizen head and Kinsale? Gallery B&B in Kinsale

day 6 ponied up to play Old Head. Dinner at Crackpots

day 7 leave out of Cork back to London.

Thanks to Budman for all his wisdom in what to do/not do. I only wish I had three more days, but I promised my wife 3 days in London.

Any last minute advice? Thanks again
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Old Jun 7th, 2004, 03:50 AM
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Budman,

If Maureen's new language is interspersed with sharp intakes of breath and little shrieks, I also speak the language!
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Old Jun 7th, 2004, 04:14 AM
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khepps, that's a great itinerary. If you take the scenic drive out of Kilkee, stop by at Ross Bridges. I understand there are 5 or so natural bridges out of the landscape. I also remember one path has eroded underneath, so be careful of your footing.

Playing both Ballybunion and Old Head? You lucky dog you! How many dozen golf balls are you bringing?

We met a couple in Killarney who stayed at Greenmount, and they loved it. They raved about their breakfasts.

The Gap of Dunloe tours begin at about 10:30 when they bus you out to Kate's Cottage. From there you have until about 2:00 to either walk or take the jaunting cars (horse/pony/cart) to the Lake where the boats will meet you for the transit thru the 3 lakes and on to Ross Castle. That would mean an early departure/breakfast from Dingle to get to Killarney in time.

I initially wanted to do the Gap on my own, but realized later that is seems that is sold only as package deal -- bus/boat/bus. The jaunting cars are on your own.

Another option would be to drive out to Kate's, walk 1/2 way thru the Gap to the top where you can definitely see where it goes downhill, then walk back to Kate's. That's probably the most spectacular portions. This you could do on your own at your own pace, but no boat ride. You would have the extra time in the afternoon to do Muckross and the Park.

You'll have a great time with the itinerary you have chosen. I would like to hear back from you your experiences.

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