Costa d'Amalfi: a TR
Dec 13th, 2023, 02:46 PM
#21
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Can't wait to hear more. And was considering staying in Minori on my upcoming trip, so I appreciate your thoughts on it.
About the super volcano - I guess there has been quite a bit of activity as of late. Did you experience any tremors?
About the super volcano - I guess there has been quite a bit of activity as of late. Did you experience any tremors?
Dec 13th, 2023, 03:31 PM
#22
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Patritzio Amato drove us for a voyage that took in many destinations. We actually hired him on a number of days for other locations. He was always bang-on punctual.
We got up early to rendezvous with our fave driver, Patrizio. First stop on that 'overview' tour: windswept Agerola.
Near Furore, with the Tyrrhenian Sea beyond. The outskirts of this village are some of the most winding local roads---good idea to take some Dramamine/Gravol pills ahead of time. Queasy stomachs can occur here.
That day included the fabled vertical village Positano. We were content to see it from its periphery, the strategy suggested to us by every single Minori resident with whom we consulted. Ninety per cent of the shops in this 'Insta capital of the universe' are female-clothing boutiques. Expensive ones. "Wait here and watch", I said to Mrs Z as we stood by the Sponda bus stop. Sure enough, within 48 seconds some young women arrived there to do the trout pout/hands on hips poses for their cameras.
Note that Roman ruins have been discovered in Positano's church's basement. The murals on the walls are apparently of high quality.
Vettica Maggiore ('bursting bladders') had a donkey team transporting construction materials down to some reno site. It also had one of those 'only in Italy' marvels: someone had placed a fully set dinner table out onto a rooftop there. Outstanding! *Be sure to also check out the vista from its S. Gennaro church square, with Positano across the bay and Lattari Mountains national park just above.
Donkeys have actually played a important role here over the centuries. Ceramic art still celebrates the beasts. As it should.
Then a quick glimpse of the lovely dollhouse that is tiny Marina di Praia hamlet and its cute harbor. Wedged between cliffs, it'd make an intriguing base for those who prefer the off-the-beaten-path.
Patrizio points out Sophia Loren's mansion to Mrs Z.
Loren's aforementioned mansion with Amalfi in the background. Her estate also includes a perched chapel out at the tip of her promontory, just to the right of those descending trees.
We went to the agricultural hinterlands of Tramonti, where Sal de Riso's factory is located.
That was the land where one wakes to cock crows.
Plenty of grape vines there too.
Those images of a fast-vanishing yesteryear...
The builders of this home...to their great-grandchildren. From mules to cell phones. From the tarantella dance to armed drones...
Italy was part of both wars, and their peasants bore the brunt. But nowadays this special nation seems to do a better job than other countries in staying free and clear of any further involvements. Good for them.
*next: the Path of the Lemons (that name).
We got up early to rendezvous with our fave driver, Patrizio. First stop on that 'overview' tour: windswept Agerola.
Near Furore, with the Tyrrhenian Sea beyond. The outskirts of this village are some of the most winding local roads---good idea to take some Dramamine/Gravol pills ahead of time. Queasy stomachs can occur here.
That day included the fabled vertical village Positano. We were content to see it from its periphery, the strategy suggested to us by every single Minori resident with whom we consulted. Ninety per cent of the shops in this 'Insta capital of the universe' are female-clothing boutiques. Expensive ones. "Wait here and watch", I said to Mrs Z as we stood by the Sponda bus stop. Sure enough, within 48 seconds some young women arrived there to do the trout pout/hands on hips poses for their cameras.
Note that Roman ruins have been discovered in Positano's church's basement. The murals on the walls are apparently of high quality.
Vettica Maggiore ('bursting bladders') had a donkey team transporting construction materials down to some reno site. It also had one of those 'only in Italy' marvels: someone had placed a fully set dinner table out onto a rooftop there. Outstanding! *Be sure to also check out the vista from its S. Gennaro church square, with Positano across the bay and Lattari Mountains national park just above.
Donkeys have actually played a important role here over the centuries. Ceramic art still celebrates the beasts. As it should.
Then a quick glimpse of the lovely dollhouse that is tiny Marina di Praia hamlet and its cute harbor. Wedged between cliffs, it'd make an intriguing base for those who prefer the off-the-beaten-path.
Patrizio points out Sophia Loren's mansion to Mrs Z.
Loren's aforementioned mansion with Amalfi in the background. Her estate also includes a perched chapel out at the tip of her promontory, just to the right of those descending trees.
We went to the agricultural hinterlands of Tramonti, where Sal de Riso's factory is located.
That was the land where one wakes to cock crows.
Plenty of grape vines there too.
Those images of a fast-vanishing yesteryear...
The builders of this home...to their great-grandchildren. From mules to cell phones. From the tarantella dance to armed drones...
Italy was part of both wars, and their peasants bore the brunt. But nowadays this special nation seems to do a better job than other countries in staying free and clear of any further involvements. Good for them.
*next: the Path of the Lemons (that name).
Last edited by zebec; Dec 13th, 2023 at 03:35 PM.
Dec 13th, 2023, 03:58 PM
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We polled residents as to their all-time favorite local musician. The pride of Naples, Pino Danieli, won hands-down.
Here is one of his songs. I'm not at all familiar with his work.
Here is one of his songs. I'm not at all familiar with his work.
Dec 13th, 2023, 04:23 PM
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Coogan and Brydon did this scene below at Ravello's above-shown Villa Cimbrone. That was part of their hilarious movie 'The Trip to Italy'. They trade comic impressions while eating brunch at the iconic hotel patio.
*Frankly, their Pompeii scene in the same movie is even better, with Brydon carrying on an imaginary conversation with one of the victim casts, while going into 'his small man in a box' mode.
Geniuses both of them.
https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...erpt+pompeii++
*Frankly, their Pompeii scene in the same movie is even better, with Brydon carrying on an imaginary conversation with one of the victim casts, while going into 'his small man in a box' mode.
Geniuses both of them.
https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...erpt+pompeii++
Dec 13th, 2023, 04:36 PM
#28
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A further filmic connection, this time to Minori. The nocturnal scene in the recent 'Equalizer' wherein Denzel Washington kills bad guys with a van plus a set of keys, was shot right by the arch shown above. The young lady far left was actually one of our fellow guests at Mario Arzano's social get-together up at his Torre home. She and her girlfriend had just arrived from Bologna and had been dragged by Mario's elderly father-in-law off the Path of the Lemons and into our in-progress party!
As for TV, fans of 'Two Greedy Italians' may already know that chef Gennaro Contaldo and his sidekick, were both originally from Minori. This arch shown above was the very spot where poor Gennaro last saw his mother alive prior to his departing for London as a young man during the sixties. *Gennaro is the same chef who was shown on Stanley Tucci's CNN London episode, where they gather wild arugala before retiring to cook together at Tucci's London home.
Dec 13th, 2023, 05:34 PM
#29
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All right, where were we? Oh yeah, the Sentiero di Limone or Path of the Lemons.
Lovely lemon land, you make us feel so fine... Lets do the Sentieri dei limone.
These lemon ladies were real heroines back when the path was the only alternative to marine transport between Minori to Maiori. That was prior to construction of the main road. You can do the path in either direction. We did the E-W route twice. At 800 steps, it is a less strenuous alternative to the more high-profile Path of the Gods further north-west near Nocelle.
The hike starts on via Lama near the Minori public library. The start (shown here) is the only real steep section. It only takes a minute or two to climb. Really, its quite manageable for most.
Soon, one gets a great view of the church S. Trophimena down below. That is at the lookout called Mortella, which oddly enough is by some myrtle trees.
Other views also soon emerge. All of them, every last one, includes the green, off-season gauze-wrapping done to protect all citrus groves here.
Such striking landscape. I rest my case (of limoncello).
The ubiquitous limoncello is available in every shop catering to tourists, and then some. As well, one of Sal de Riso's signature pastry desserts is his take on a lemony sweet cream.
Along the way, one passes some art on he walls of homes. In addition, one also passes 'CUONC CUONC' (slowly slowly) a farming family's cafe cum produce market stall--check for opening hours.
Near Torre hamlet and its petite church. Local growers do a lot of 'up and down'. Strong legs no doubt.
Local 'Sfusato Amalfitano' lemons are a different type than you and I are used to. Gnarlier skin for starters. They are grown a bit larger and more aromatic. Supposedly higher in Vitamin C. They were once crucial exports going onto Britain and America.
If these two can do this path---then so can you!
Along the breezy path, walkers will pass countless groves where citrus is cultivated. You keep going along via vena. This farm on via Pedamentina was close to Maori and the end of the hike.
Maori appears soon after walkers reach sight of the distinctive Mezzacapo Castle on the town's edge. Workaday Maori is a good place to base if one wants keep to a strict, low-cost budget. It has no sights except for its appealing beach. As self-caterers, we went there to shop at both the competing grocery chain supermarkets there: DECO & NETTO.
Maori roof tiles.
Maori lantern shadow. *next: our traditional QUIZ followed by a wrap-up conclusion of Amalfi, Atrani and Minori.
Lovely lemon land, you make us feel so fine... Lets do the Sentieri dei limone.
These lemon ladies were real heroines back when the path was the only alternative to marine transport between Minori to Maiori. That was prior to construction of the main road. You can do the path in either direction. We did the E-W route twice. At 800 steps, it is a less strenuous alternative to the more high-profile Path of the Gods further north-west near Nocelle.
The hike starts on via Lama near the Minori public library. The start (shown here) is the only real steep section. It only takes a minute or two to climb. Really, its quite manageable for most.
Soon, one gets a great view of the church S. Trophimena down below. That is at the lookout called Mortella, which oddly enough is by some myrtle trees.
Other views also soon emerge. All of them, every last one, includes the green, off-season gauze-wrapping done to protect all citrus groves here.
Such striking landscape. I rest my case (of limoncello).
The ubiquitous limoncello is available in every shop catering to tourists, and then some. As well, one of Sal de Riso's signature pastry desserts is his take on a lemony sweet cream.
Along the way, one passes some art on he walls of homes. In addition, one also passes 'CUONC CUONC' (slowly slowly) a farming family's cafe cum produce market stall--check for opening hours.
Near Torre hamlet and its petite church. Local growers do a lot of 'up and down'. Strong legs no doubt.
Local 'Sfusato Amalfitano' lemons are a different type than you and I are used to. Gnarlier skin for starters. They are grown a bit larger and more aromatic. Supposedly higher in Vitamin C. They were once crucial exports going onto Britain and America.
If these two can do this path---then so can you!
Along the breezy path, walkers will pass countless groves where citrus is cultivated. You keep going along via vena. This farm on via Pedamentina was close to Maori and the end of the hike.
Maori appears soon after walkers reach sight of the distinctive Mezzacapo Castle on the town's edge. Workaday Maori is a good place to base if one wants keep to a strict, low-cost budget. It has no sights except for its appealing beach. As self-caterers, we went there to shop at both the competing grocery chain supermarkets there: DECO & NETTO.
Maori roof tiles.
Maori lantern shadow. *next: our traditional QUIZ followed by a wrap-up conclusion of Amalfi, Atrani and Minori.
Dec 14th, 2023, 02:33 AM
#34
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Thanks, Zebec. fabulous photos and trip report.
my time there was only ten days and I have forgotten the name of the town where we were based. It was very small and like the calendar was turned back. I remember a few tiny shops and a woman sitting outside shelling beans. We were supposed to go to a restaurant one night but it wasn't open so our leader had her cousin who didn't speak English shuttle us to a pizza place in the basement of a sprawling farmouse. One decided to order pizza American style even though our leader wasn't sure she was translating the ingredients correctly. The pizza came topped with hot dogs and french fries.
We usually had the same drivers with two Mercedes vans. The highway was so narrow I was surprised we didn't get sideswipped. I noticed our driver was routinely bringing his side view mirror as close to the body as possible.
i'm not even sure if I kept good notes on the trip. There was one restaurant perched on a cliff the required walking down flights of stairs but on one level they had enough space for their tomato garden. Needless to say, the views were wonderful. And I can't remember which seside town where a member of our group followed stairs uphill. She met a man with a donkey hauling goods. Donkey was the only way heavy things could get there.
Breakfast in the monastery was different than we were used to somthe leader had to ask the cook to make hard boiled eggs in addition to what was usually set out on the buffet.
my time there was only ten days and I have forgotten the name of the town where we were based. It was very small and like the calendar was turned back. I remember a few tiny shops and a woman sitting outside shelling beans. We were supposed to go to a restaurant one night but it wasn't open so our leader had her cousin who didn't speak English shuttle us to a pizza place in the basement of a sprawling farmouse. One decided to order pizza American style even though our leader wasn't sure she was translating the ingredients correctly. The pizza came topped with hot dogs and french fries.
We usually had the same drivers with two Mercedes vans. The highway was so narrow I was surprised we didn't get sideswipped. I noticed our driver was routinely bringing his side view mirror as close to the body as possible.
i'm not even sure if I kept good notes on the trip. There was one restaurant perched on a cliff the required walking down flights of stairs but on one level they had enough space for their tomato garden. Needless to say, the views were wonderful. And I can't remember which seside town where a member of our group followed stairs uphill. She met a man with a donkey hauling goods. Donkey was the only way heavy things could get there.
Breakfast in the monastery was different than we were used to somthe leader had to ask the cook to make hard boiled eggs in addition to what was usually set out on the buffet.
Dec 14th, 2023, 04:46 AM
#35
Fabulous TR and your photos are sensational. You’ve reminded me how wonderful it is to spend a longer time in one place and off season. Time enough to take in the smaller details and enjoy a day to day life.
We’ve been twice to this area, staying in the small but charming Atrani. The last time, we did the walk along the Path of the Lemons/Sentiero dei Limoni, starting in Maiori and ending in Minori. We were charmed by Minori and your TR has tempted me to think of returning to this area for a longer time.
Love the views everywhere and especially those from Ravello. Oh, and that perfect shot of Vesuvius from Herculaneum. And all the other pix.
We’ve been twice to this area, staying in the small but charming Atrani. The last time, we did the walk along the Path of the Lemons/Sentiero dei Limoni, starting in Maiori and ending in Minori. We were charmed by Minori and your TR has tempted me to think of returning to this area for a longer time.
Love the views everywhere and especially those from Ravello. Oh, and that perfect shot of Vesuvius from Herculaneum. And all the other pix.
Dec 14th, 2023, 04:49 AM
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Amazing trip report—love all the photos and observations. And appreciate the info on the drivers you used. I was at the AC years ago and would love to revisit and explore more. Your TR is a very helpful source of information and inspiration.
Dec 14th, 2023, 06:00 AM
#37
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Zebec, you did it again! Fabulous report and amazing photos. I remember your England TR earlier this year with so many unique photos. Especially love the photos of the people, the colorful Limoncello bottles, the ceramics and of course all the beautiful views.
Dec 14th, 2023, 08:44 PM
#38
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DF, it sounds like you followed your gut when making those decisions, to paint just one day etc.
And that proved to be the right way to go.
BV, 'ever enthralling' indeed. The AC gets the same too touristy critique as do a number of other destinations, but our experience has been that one can combat most of the downsides with careful research and good choices.
Barbrn and KW, if you each do indeed end up going to the AC, we'd be happy to advise as much as are capable. We based in Minori for 18 days, then Ischia for 9 nights (then Rome for 4). The weather was sunny and mild (see our fotos, yeah), with rain only on a few days. The ferries were not running yet, too bad as we'd heard that the Salerno-Minori route is picturesque. The only boats that we took were to Ischia and back, plus daytrip from Ischia to Procida and back. We took the train from Rome down to Salerno (then cab transfer to Minori) then much later from Naples back up to Rome. The SITA public buses were frequent and useful. The supposed crowding problems were not too bad at all. As stated, we by design took a number of taxis. We never rent cars---I haven't driven since '79 and Mrs Z hasn't been behind a wheel in about 20 years!
Studenttobe, gruezi, ANUJ, TCinct and Ade: a big thank you to you all for taking the time to check our report. Mrs Z is a very talented photo editor, with many good suggestions. She too will some day get around to rendering her own collection of imagery.
TN, we had no tremors on this trip. The only two terremotos that we've experienced were in Naples in '2012 and also Guayaquil (we nickname that dangerous port 'guy'll kill ya') two decades prior. Mrs Z slept through the former!
MsGo, please say Hi to mrGo and remind him for me that he need not be ashamed for collecting Monkees audience bootlegs.
Geetika, isn't it interesting that you and yours, plus Mrs Z and I seem to choose very similar destinations?
ProGol, same as above. You jumped the gun here! I was planning to link your related TR here by surprise, with a caption on a certain upcoming foto--I just know that you know exactly which one.
Whom have I missed here? Wasn't there one more? My memory is humming now...something about England...gardening...a marriage in Lecce...no, nothing there. I must be imagining things.
SIGN ZEE PAPERS OLD MAN!!
Merci everyone. I will continue to try and make things interesting here, as I finish off. *Time for our Quiz.
And that proved to be the right way to go.
BV, 'ever enthralling' indeed. The AC gets the same too touristy critique as do a number of other destinations, but our experience has been that one can combat most of the downsides with careful research and good choices.
Barbrn and KW, if you each do indeed end up going to the AC, we'd be happy to advise as much as are capable. We based in Minori for 18 days, then Ischia for 9 nights (then Rome for 4). The weather was sunny and mild (see our fotos, yeah), with rain only on a few days. The ferries were not running yet, too bad as we'd heard that the Salerno-Minori route is picturesque. The only boats that we took were to Ischia and back, plus daytrip from Ischia to Procida and back. We took the train from Rome down to Salerno (then cab transfer to Minori) then much later from Naples back up to Rome. The SITA public buses were frequent and useful. The supposed crowding problems were not too bad at all. As stated, we by design took a number of taxis. We never rent cars---I haven't driven since '79 and Mrs Z hasn't been behind a wheel in about 20 years!
Studenttobe, gruezi, ANUJ, TCinct and Ade: a big thank you to you all for taking the time to check our report. Mrs Z is a very talented photo editor, with many good suggestions. She too will some day get around to rendering her own collection of imagery.
TN, we had no tremors on this trip. The only two terremotos that we've experienced were in Naples in '2012 and also Guayaquil (we nickname that dangerous port 'guy'll kill ya') two decades prior. Mrs Z slept through the former!
MsGo, please say Hi to mrGo and remind him for me that he need not be ashamed for collecting Monkees audience bootlegs.
Geetika, isn't it interesting that you and yours, plus Mrs Z and I seem to choose very similar destinations?
ProGol, same as above. You jumped the gun here! I was planning to link your related TR here by surprise, with a caption on a certain upcoming foto--I just know that you know exactly which one.
Whom have I missed here? Wasn't there one more? My memory is humming now...something about England...gardening...a marriage in Lecce...no, nothing there. I must be imagining things.
SIGN ZEE PAPERS OLD MAN!!
Merci everyone. I will continue to try and make things interesting here, as I finish off. *Time for our Quiz.
Last edited by zebec; Dec 14th, 2023 at 08:57 PM.
Dec 14th, 2023, 09:51 PM
#39
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QUIZQUIZQUIZQUIZQUIZQUIZ
(circle correct answers)
1) 'Stanco' means:
a) smelly b) tired c) horny d) a missed penalty shot in soccer
2) Which travel outfit received a free product placement in the latest 'Equalizer' movie?
a) Rick Steves b) Lonely Planet c) Fodors d) Rough Guide
3) In 2020, which following celebrity did a decent painting of the Spanish Steps in Rome?
a) Taylor Swift b) Matthew Santos c) Bob Dylan d) Andrea Bocelli
4) Which person listed here had a connection to Atrani?
a) Picasso b) Usher c) Annie Leibowitz d) Esher
5) 'Raggazzi' means:
a) seniors b) clothing merchants c) photographers d) children
6) a pistrice is:
a) a special glass used for limoncello b) a container used in ancient Rome for carrying cement c) a mythical sea beast half snake/half eagle that once devoured Jonah d) a dog that barks back at its own echoing voice
DIDJA' KNOW? Twelve Facts about Italia
-Many experts (that word) consider Salerno's cathedral to be among the most beautiful in Italy.
-The number of church bell peals denote the function, be it wedding, funeral or summons to Mass.
-Mechanized ladders to remove rubbish loads have become a staple tool on most archaeological sites nowadays.
-Amalfi's Saint Angelo church is Italy's most popular wedding church.
-The SITA public bus driver jobs are hereditary, passed down from papa to son.
-Minori's infamous 'battenti' flagellants have only recently foregone their traditional self-harm and now spend time doing things for Minorese charities.
-Atrani suffered a flash flood in September 2010. One woman died, while scores of vehicles were swept out to sea.
-Maori also suffered a 20C flash flood which had profound consequences for its layout.
-Most residents of Pompeii and Herculaneum actually survived the eruption, having vacated at the earliest chance.
-The isle of Procida has the highest population density in all of Europe.
-Whereas most have heard of the Xmas bread panettone, fewer are familiar with 'panforte', a tastier fruit/nuts dessert concoction identified with Sienna.
-Whereas Pompeii was extensively robbed by thieving Bourbon diggers, Herculaneum was not. *Editors--Zebec was wrong above.
*BONUS: things overheard on this trip.
a) Tourist woman to husband: "Jim, I'm not going into any more fucking churches!"
b) Young woman to her traveling companion friend in cafe: "Oh, this dish is FABULOUS! No sharing after all."
c) Angry tourist mom to her teen kids at restaurant: "Make up your minds NOW! Pizza or pasta?"
d) Mrs Z to me, after discovering the cheap kitchen utensils at our Rome rental (including a nasty plastic cutting board): "Guess we're not good enough for the wooden cutting board, eh?"
(circle correct answers)
1) 'Stanco' means:
a) smelly b) tired c) horny d) a missed penalty shot in soccer
2) Which travel outfit received a free product placement in the latest 'Equalizer' movie?
a) Rick Steves b) Lonely Planet c) Fodors d) Rough Guide
3) In 2020, which following celebrity did a decent painting of the Spanish Steps in Rome?
a) Taylor Swift b) Matthew Santos c) Bob Dylan d) Andrea Bocelli
4) Which person listed here had a connection to Atrani?
a) Picasso b) Usher c) Annie Leibowitz d) Esher
5) 'Raggazzi' means:
a) seniors b) clothing merchants c) photographers d) children
6) a pistrice is:
a) a special glass used for limoncello b) a container used in ancient Rome for carrying cement c) a mythical sea beast half snake/half eagle that once devoured Jonah d) a dog that barks back at its own echoing voice
DIDJA' KNOW? Twelve Facts about Italia
-Many experts (that word) consider Salerno's cathedral to be among the most beautiful in Italy.
-The number of church bell peals denote the function, be it wedding, funeral or summons to Mass.
-Mechanized ladders to remove rubbish loads have become a staple tool on most archaeological sites nowadays.
-Amalfi's Saint Angelo church is Italy's most popular wedding church.
-The SITA public bus driver jobs are hereditary, passed down from papa to son.
-Minori's infamous 'battenti' flagellants have only recently foregone their traditional self-harm and now spend time doing things for Minorese charities.
-Atrani suffered a flash flood in September 2010. One woman died, while scores of vehicles were swept out to sea.
-Maori also suffered a 20C flash flood which had profound consequences for its layout.
-Most residents of Pompeii and Herculaneum actually survived the eruption, having vacated at the earliest chance.
-The isle of Procida has the highest population density in all of Europe.
-Whereas most have heard of the Xmas bread panettone, fewer are familiar with 'panforte', a tastier fruit/nuts dessert concoction identified with Sienna.
-Whereas Pompeii was extensively robbed by thieving Bourbon diggers, Herculaneum was not. *Editors--Zebec was wrong above.
*BONUS: things overheard on this trip.
a) Tourist woman to husband: "Jim, I'm not going into any more fucking churches!"
b) Young woman to her traveling companion friend in cafe: "Oh, this dish is FABULOUS! No sharing after all."
c) Angry tourist mom to her teen kids at restaurant: "Make up your minds NOW! Pizza or pasta?"
d) Mrs Z to me, after discovering the cheap kitchen utensils at our Rome rental (including a nasty plastic cutting board): "Guess we're not good enough for the wooden cutting board, eh?"
Last edited by zebec; Dec 14th, 2023 at 09:54 PM.
