Draft Itinerary - 2 weeks in Scotland
Feb 22nd, 2009, 02:19 PM
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Draft Itinerary - 2 weeks in Scotland
Hello – my husband and I are planning a trip to Scotland in June. I can’t express how appreciative I am of the postings on this site and the wealth of knowledge that is made available to us newbies. We have traveled quite a lot, but Scotland seemed a bit daunting (since we knew virtually nothing about the geographic/regional lay-out). After reading several posts and following up on many links, I took a stab at it. I’ll start by saying our itinerary is largely based on my love of single malt whisky (and my husband’s love of me…hee-hee), but we have many other interests and goals for this trip as well:
-Want to see a lot (both from a scenic and historical perspective), knowing we can’t see all in one trip
-Want to experience some slow-living along the way
-Whisky distilleries/local breweries are of great interest
-Want to minimize city and transit driving (hubby’s on vaca too - not fair to stick him with the driving responsibility and I sure don’t want it!)
QUESTIONS:
-Does anyone see any MAJOR mistakes in this itinerary? This is our first pass and we are not wed to it.
-Any tips on folk/traditional live music venues in our locations?
-We have lots of homework to do on the historical aspect…suggested readings?
-Can anyone recommend a Kilt maker? The 2006 posting (kiltsbykaren) does not appear to be a current contact.
-I'm sure we'll have follow up questions re: accommodations/restaurants when we get to that point...I've already gleaned some great tips. : )
Thank you!
Day 1 SAT Arrive Edinburgh AM from USA, Overnight Edinburgh
Day 2 SUN Overnight Edinburgh
Day 3 MON p/u car Edinburgh airport: drive through Speyside (Whisky Trail),
Overnight Inverurie or Oldmeldrum
Day 4 TUE AM fly Aberdeen to Kirkwall, p/u car @airport, Overnight Orkney
Day 5 WED Overnight Orkney
Day 6 THU AM fly Kirkwall to Inverness, Train to Kyle of Lochalsh, p/u car at
train station, Overnight Skye
Day 7 FRI Overnight Skye
Day 8 SAT Overnight Skye
Day 9 SUN Overnight Skye
Day 10 MON Ferry from Armadale to Mallaig, Train from Mallaig
to Glasgow, fly Glasgow to Islay, p/u car @ airport, Overnight Islay
Day 11 TUE Overnight Islay
Day 12 WED Overnight Islay
Day 13 THU Fly Islay to Glasgow, Overnight Glasgow
Day 14 FRI Overnight Glasgow
Day 15 SAT Depart Glasgow AM to USA
-Want to see a lot (both from a scenic and historical perspective), knowing we can’t see all in one trip
-Want to experience some slow-living along the way
-Whisky distilleries/local breweries are of great interest
-Want to minimize city and transit driving (hubby’s on vaca too - not fair to stick him with the driving responsibility and I sure don’t want it!)
QUESTIONS:
-Does anyone see any MAJOR mistakes in this itinerary? This is our first pass and we are not wed to it.
-Any tips on folk/traditional live music venues in our locations?
-We have lots of homework to do on the historical aspect…suggested readings?
-Can anyone recommend a Kilt maker? The 2006 posting (kiltsbykaren) does not appear to be a current contact.
-I'm sure we'll have follow up questions re: accommodations/restaurants when we get to that point...I've already gleaned some great tips. : )
Thank you!
Day 1 SAT Arrive Edinburgh AM from USA, Overnight Edinburgh
Day 2 SUN Overnight Edinburgh
Day 3 MON p/u car Edinburgh airport: drive through Speyside (Whisky Trail),
Overnight Inverurie or Oldmeldrum
Day 4 TUE AM fly Aberdeen to Kirkwall, p/u car @airport, Overnight Orkney
Day 5 WED Overnight Orkney
Day 6 THU AM fly Kirkwall to Inverness, Train to Kyle of Lochalsh, p/u car at
train station, Overnight Skye
Day 7 FRI Overnight Skye
Day 8 SAT Overnight Skye
Day 9 SUN Overnight Skye
Day 10 MON Ferry from Armadale to Mallaig, Train from Mallaig
to Glasgow, fly Glasgow to Islay, p/u car @ airport, Overnight Islay
Day 11 TUE Overnight Islay
Day 12 WED Overnight Islay
Day 13 THU Fly Islay to Glasgow, Overnight Glasgow
Day 14 FRI Overnight Glasgow
Day 15 SAT Depart Glasgow AM to USA
Feb 22nd, 2009, 03:01 PM
#3
Only time for one really quick comment right now - I'll try to get back later and hopefully Sheila and others will see your thread . .
I'd really REALLY reconsider all the different car hires. Short rentals cost more per day plus some places like Kyle of Lochalsh and Islay have really limited options. I'd a car pick up a at Inverness (after arriving from Orkney) and keep it for the duration until arriving finally in Glasgow. (If it was my own trip, what I'd really do is rethink the order of things a bit so I could rent one car for the full itinerary)
One other quick thing - I'd add a night to Edinburgh and maybe take one from Glasgow.
I'd really REALLY reconsider all the different car hires. Short rentals cost more per day plus some places like Kyle of Lochalsh and Islay have really limited options. I'd a car pick up a at Inverness (after arriving from Orkney) and keep it for the duration until arriving finally in Glasgow. (If it was my own trip, what I'd really do is rethink the order of things a bit so I could rent one car for the full itinerary)
One other quick thing - I'd add a night to Edinburgh and maybe take one from Glasgow.
Feb 22nd, 2009, 03:04 PM
#4
meant to ask -- are you doing all these different cars trying to avoid car ferries? The extra for taking cars on ferries can be mainly offset by the cheaper rates from major rental agencies available in places like Edinburgh or Inverness.
Feb 22nd, 2009, 03:38 PM
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Hi Janis - thanks for the initial response. We will ponder the Glasgow/Edinburgh stays further.
As for the car rentals - not done to avoid cost of ferrying the car, but more to expedite travel between destinations by use of alternate travel(train/air)in order to spend more time in our desired locations. However, once in those locations, it sounds like we will enjoy them much more with a car...hence the rentals. I do secretly fear that we will spend too much time at the car rental counter...surely not a highlight. I agree that this plan has drawbacks...just not sure how else to make it work yet. Hmmmm...
As for the car rentals - not done to avoid cost of ferrying the car, but more to expedite travel between destinations by use of alternate travel(train/air)in order to spend more time in our desired locations. However, once in those locations, it sounds like we will enjoy them much more with a car...hence the rentals. I do secretly fear that we will spend too much time at the car rental counter...surely not a highlight. I agree that this plan has drawbacks...just not sure how else to make it work yet. Hmmmm...
Feb 22nd, 2009, 04:24 PM
#6
We toured the Ardbeg distillery in August. Nice cafe there for lunch, which is no small matter on Islay, where restaurants are thin on the ground. We stayed at a wonderful B&B on Islay, Glenegedale House (www.glenegedalehouse.co.uk). You might be interested in my trip report: http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...o-scotland.cfm
Feb 22nd, 2009, 07:06 PM
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Nikki - Glenegedale House looks picture perfect...will definitely add it to our possibilities. I enjoyed your trip report as well. Do you recall if there were any nice walking beaches on Islay? Maybe a silly question, but I really don't know what to expect. Thanks much for your input.
Cheers!
Cheers!
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Feb 23rd, 2009, 12:33 AM
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Great trip. Now, where do I start?? With your name- terrific name, BTW.
Thank you for being so clear about your requirements. It does make it easier to help you.
One word of caution. Don’t do too many distillery tours. There are nuances between them, but basically, seen one, seen them all. You definitely want to see one with a malting floor, but since there are 3 on Islay, that’s not going to be an issue
One question:- who is the kilt for?
Your itinerary:-
“Day 1 SAT Arrive Edinburgh AM from USA, Overnight Edinburgh
Day 2 SUN Overnight Edinburgh
Day 3 MON p/u car Edinburgh airport:”
It’s OK, this far, but then it turns into a bit of a train wreck.
You DO know there are 50 distilleries on Speyside, right? Plus the Cooperage and the visitor centre at Dallas Dhu. And there are 8, plus the cooperage and Dallas Dhu on the Whisky Trail. So, given that you are allowing about half a day for Speyside (and I know some people who might think that an error), I think you need to pick one distillery and see it. I’d suggest Balvenie, but you need to book it. Most of the others you don’t. (I’d also give Strathisla and Glenlivet a miss, since they are both a bit “industrial”). In point of fact, were it me, I’d add a day to Speyside, stay overnight at the Craigellachie, and slow down a bit here. (I’m taking it off Skye, where you have too much, IMHO)
Now, IF you want to fly to Kirkwall, you have identified one option. The other is to finish your Speyside trip at Inverness- which is closer, and doesn’t involve you driving two hours south to Aberdeen only to drive them back to get to Skye. The third is to keep driving all the way to Scrabster on the north coast and get the ferry to Stromness on Orkney. The last ferry at night is at 7pm, and were it me, that’s what I would do.
You then get your full day in Orkney and stay two nights there, and get a great drive round the north of Scotland to Skye into the bargain. So, you’re either leaving your car one night at Aberdeen airport, or one night in Inverness, or your keeping it.
Incidentally, I’m not a beer person, but you should take account of Orkney Brewery when you’re there.
Then two nights in Skye instead of three. (although you haven’t said it, you are presumably doing Highland Park on Orkney and Talisker on Skye. Scapa only produces whisky about 2 weeks a year and I’m not sure how accessible it is to the public. Dark Island brewery on Skye is worth taking into account)
However you do this, you’ll be (if you follow my advice) driving off Skye to Mallaig. The idea of taking the train to Glasgow to fly to Islay to hire a car there, is bonkers (really). If you sort this properly, (and I appreciate you may not be able to), you should try to arrange to be landing in Mallaig on a Wednesday. It’s then a fairly easy run round to Oban to catch the 5. 30pm ferry to Islay. If you can’t do that, it’s a somewhat longer day to get the 6pm ferry out of Kennacraig to Islay.
I know there’s a bit of driving in here, but if you do it my way, there’s not much time pressure, and eth scenery is absolutely gorgeous. Really it is.
You then spend your two nights on Islay, and drive off and over the Rest and be Thankful and down Loch Lomond to Glasgow to spend your two nights there. Doesn’t that sound much nicer, than
“Fly Islay to Glasgow”?
That would make your itinerary
Day 1 SAT Arrive Edinburgh AM from USA, Overnight Edinburgh
Day 2 SUN Overnight Edinburgh
Day 3 MON p/u car Edinburgh airport: drive through Speyside (Whisky Trail),
Overnight Craigellachie
Day 4 TUE More Speyside, Drive to Scrabster, Overnight Orkney
Day 5 WED Overnight Orkney
Day 6 THU AM drive to Skye Overnight Skye
Day 7 FRI Overnight Skye
Day 8 SAT Overnight Skye
Day 9 SUN Overnight Skye
Day 10 MON Ferry from Armadale to Mallaig, Drive to Kennacraig; Overnight Islay
Day 11 TUE Overnight Islay
Day 12 WED Overnight Islay
Day 13 THU Fly Islay to Glasgow, Overnight Glasgow
Day 14 FRI Overnight Glasgow
Day 15 SAT Depart Glasgow AM to USA
I guess I got muxed ip in there, but I still think there’s still too many nights in Skye, and were I you, I’d rob it off Skye and put it onto something else.
Thank you for being so clear about your requirements. It does make it easier to help you.
One word of caution. Don’t do too many distillery tours. There are nuances between them, but basically, seen one, seen them all. You definitely want to see one with a malting floor, but since there are 3 on Islay, that’s not going to be an issue
One question:- who is the kilt for?
Your itinerary:-
“Day 1 SAT Arrive Edinburgh AM from USA, Overnight Edinburgh
Day 2 SUN Overnight Edinburgh
Day 3 MON p/u car Edinburgh airport:”
It’s OK, this far, but then it turns into a bit of a train wreck.
You DO know there are 50 distilleries on Speyside, right? Plus the Cooperage and the visitor centre at Dallas Dhu. And there are 8, plus the cooperage and Dallas Dhu on the Whisky Trail. So, given that you are allowing about half a day for Speyside (and I know some people who might think that an error), I think you need to pick one distillery and see it. I’d suggest Balvenie, but you need to book it. Most of the others you don’t. (I’d also give Strathisla and Glenlivet a miss, since they are both a bit “industrial”). In point of fact, were it me, I’d add a day to Speyside, stay overnight at the Craigellachie, and slow down a bit here. (I’m taking it off Skye, where you have too much, IMHO)
Now, IF you want to fly to Kirkwall, you have identified one option. The other is to finish your Speyside trip at Inverness- which is closer, and doesn’t involve you driving two hours south to Aberdeen only to drive them back to get to Skye. The third is to keep driving all the way to Scrabster on the north coast and get the ferry to Stromness on Orkney. The last ferry at night is at 7pm, and were it me, that’s what I would do.
You then get your full day in Orkney and stay two nights there, and get a great drive round the north of Scotland to Skye into the bargain. So, you’re either leaving your car one night at Aberdeen airport, or one night in Inverness, or your keeping it.
Incidentally, I’m not a beer person, but you should take account of Orkney Brewery when you’re there.
Then two nights in Skye instead of three. (although you haven’t said it, you are presumably doing Highland Park on Orkney and Talisker on Skye. Scapa only produces whisky about 2 weeks a year and I’m not sure how accessible it is to the public. Dark Island brewery on Skye is worth taking into account)
However you do this, you’ll be (if you follow my advice) driving off Skye to Mallaig. The idea of taking the train to Glasgow to fly to Islay to hire a car there, is bonkers (really). If you sort this properly, (and I appreciate you may not be able to), you should try to arrange to be landing in Mallaig on a Wednesday. It’s then a fairly easy run round to Oban to catch the 5. 30pm ferry to Islay. If you can’t do that, it’s a somewhat longer day to get the 6pm ferry out of Kennacraig to Islay.
I know there’s a bit of driving in here, but if you do it my way, there’s not much time pressure, and eth scenery is absolutely gorgeous. Really it is.
You then spend your two nights on Islay, and drive off and over the Rest and be Thankful and down Loch Lomond to Glasgow to spend your two nights there. Doesn’t that sound much nicer, than
“Fly Islay to Glasgow”?
That would make your itinerary
Day 1 SAT Arrive Edinburgh AM from USA, Overnight Edinburgh
Day 2 SUN Overnight Edinburgh
Day 3 MON p/u car Edinburgh airport: drive through Speyside (Whisky Trail),
Overnight Craigellachie
Day 4 TUE More Speyside, Drive to Scrabster, Overnight Orkney
Day 5 WED Overnight Orkney
Day 6 THU AM drive to Skye Overnight Skye
Day 7 FRI Overnight Skye
Day 8 SAT Overnight Skye
Day 9 SUN Overnight Skye
Day 10 MON Ferry from Armadale to Mallaig, Drive to Kennacraig; Overnight Islay
Day 11 TUE Overnight Islay
Day 12 WED Overnight Islay
Day 13 THU Fly Islay to Glasgow, Overnight Glasgow
Day 14 FRI Overnight Glasgow
Day 15 SAT Depart Glasgow AM to USA
I guess I got muxed ip in there, but I still think there’s still too many nights in Skye, and were I you, I’d rob it off Skye and put it onto something else.
Feb 23rd, 2009, 03:38 AM
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Sheila - *THANKS* for the insightful tips...I knew I needed an educated look at this. I think with your input (along with Janis)re: the car , one option now looks something like this:
Day 1 SAT Arrive Edinburgh AM from USA, Overnight Edinburgh
Day 2 SUN Overnight Edinburgh
Day 3 MON p/u car Edinburgh airport: drive through Speyside (Whisky Trail),
Overnight Craigellachie
Day 4 TUE More Speyside, Drive to Scrabster, Overnight Orkney
Day 5 WED Overnight Orkney
Day 6 THU Overnight Orkney
Day 7 FRI AM drive to Skye Overnight Skye
Day 8 SAT Overnight Skye
Day 9 SUN Overnight Skye
Day 10 MON Ferry from Armadale to Mallaig, Drive to Kennacraig; Overnight Islay
Day 11 TUE Overnight Islay
Day 12 WED Overnight Islay
Day 13 THU Drive Islay to Glasgow, Overnight Glasgow
Day 14 FRI Overnight Glasgow
Day 15 SAT Depart Glasgow AM to USA
Since we now arrive Orkney in PM, I added one additional night there (taken from Skye) to allow two full Orkney days. Does that make sense?
I now need to scrub again and see if I can work the Wednesday Mallaig landing into the equation. I was also hoping to get a train ride in somewhere so that both of us can enjoy the scenery. I worry that the driver (probably my husband)won't get the scenic benefit and that doesn't seem fair (that's one of the reasons we were opting for some train travel).
-Kilt is for my husband, ancestry is clan Graham.
-My husband is a brewer, so we are definitly planning to visit Orkney and Skye breweries. Thanks!
Day 1 SAT Arrive Edinburgh AM from USA, Overnight Edinburgh
Day 2 SUN Overnight Edinburgh
Day 3 MON p/u car Edinburgh airport: drive through Speyside (Whisky Trail),
Overnight Craigellachie
Day 4 TUE More Speyside, Drive to Scrabster, Overnight Orkney
Day 5 WED Overnight Orkney
Day 6 THU Overnight Orkney
Day 7 FRI AM drive to Skye Overnight Skye
Day 8 SAT Overnight Skye
Day 9 SUN Overnight Skye
Day 10 MON Ferry from Armadale to Mallaig, Drive to Kennacraig; Overnight Islay
Day 11 TUE Overnight Islay
Day 12 WED Overnight Islay
Day 13 THU Drive Islay to Glasgow, Overnight Glasgow
Day 14 FRI Overnight Glasgow
Day 15 SAT Depart Glasgow AM to USA
Since we now arrive Orkney in PM, I added one additional night there (taken from Skye) to allow two full Orkney days. Does that make sense?
I now need to scrub again and see if I can work the Wednesday Mallaig landing into the equation. I was also hoping to get a train ride in somewhere so that both of us can enjoy the scenery. I worry that the driver (probably my husband)won't get the scenic benefit and that doesn't seem fair (that's one of the reasons we were opting for some train travel).
-Kilt is for my husband, ancestry is clan Graham.
-My husband is a brewer, so we are definitly planning to visit Orkney and Skye breweries. Thanks!
Feb 23rd, 2009, 03:58 AM
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That looks fine.
Islay Woollen Mill does kilts. the maker is in Inverary on the mainland, but why don't you have a word with them?
http://www.islaywoollenmill.co.uk/index.html
I have a bunch of stuff on Islay. Email me if you would like me to send it
Islay Woollen Mill does kilts. the maker is in Inverary on the mainland, but why don't you have a word with them?
http://www.islaywoollenmill.co.uk/index.html
I have a bunch of stuff on Islay. Email me if you would like me to send it
Feb 23rd, 2009, 05:21 AM
#12
You seem to keep catching me just as I'm going out. But sheila has fixed you up re the itinerary w/ one single car hire. Much MUCH better than all the flights/train/rentals before.
As for the driver seeing/enjoying the scenery -- not to worry. Most of the places you'll be driving are very rural and pretty remote. The driver will have no trouble at all seeing things. There won't be scads of traffic and you can stop on the side of the road just about anywhere if you want. (but NOT in the passing places on the single track roads - tempting though they might be)
You also definitely won't lack for beaches
More later - but you seem to have a good handle on things now . . . . .
As for the driver seeing/enjoying the scenery -- not to worry. Most of the places you'll be driving are very rural and pretty remote. The driver will have no trouble at all seeing things. There won't be scads of traffic and you can stop on the side of the road just about anywhere if you want. (but NOT in the passing places on the single track roads - tempting though they might be)
You also definitely won't lack for beaches
More later - but you seem to have a good handle on things now . . . . .
Feb 23rd, 2009, 05:49 AM
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A couple of addresses which may interest you for the Orkney part of your trip - www.good-creative.com/Orkney.html and www.visitorkney.com. St Magnus Festival is on from 19th - 24th June.
Feb 23rd, 2009, 06:21 AM
#14
"Do you recall if there were any nice walking beaches on Islay?"
All I can say in answer to this question is that as we walked along the beaches in Islay I thought they made the beaches near our house on Cape Cod seem overcivilized by comparison. Sheila had told me that Islay is probably like Cape Cod was twenty years ago. I'm thinking the time warp is more in the range of eighty years. Beautiful, wild stretches of beach with few people around. Of course that might have been because of the weather...
All I can say in answer to this question is that as we walked along the beaches in Islay I thought they made the beaches near our house on Cape Cod seem overcivilized by comparison. Sheila had told me that Islay is probably like Cape Cod was twenty years ago. I'm thinking the time warp is more in the range of eighty years. Beautiful, wild stretches of beach with few people around. Of course that might have been because of the weather...
Feb 23rd, 2009, 09:15 AM
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Nikki - I went back to your trip report and reviewed the pictures this morning. Beautiful and very inspiring. Thanks for sharing.
PS - Yep, saw the beaches.
PPS - My pics usually have half of someone's head and a blur of the intended image, so these really were an inspiration to me.
PS - Yep, saw the beaches.
PPS - My pics usually have half of someone's head and a blur of the intended image, so these really were an inspiration to me.
Feb 23rd, 2009, 09:51 AM
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I agree that your initial itinerary had two many nights in Skye - but it is looking a lot better now. The scenery is all so beautiful that I would drive everyplace rather than fly. You never know what is around that next corner! I have never been to Glasgow, but my son spent a semester in Scotland and he did not like Glasgow at all. He loved Edinburgh and it doesn't seem like you are spending enough time there to see all it has to offer. We enjoyed Edinburgh castle a great deal and loved walking around the streets, going into shops and soaking in all of the history. As a child I learned the story of Greyfriers Bobby and loved being able to go to his little statue and go to the cemetery where he lived out his life. If you like cemeteries at all, the Greyfrier Kirk (I think it is called!) is so cool. It's spooky as well. We loved it. I envy you going in June as we went at the end of March and had a lot of drizzly rain. We still had a wonderful time. Enjoy!!
Feb 23rd, 2009, 10:50 AM
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I agree with my (presumptively) fellow Texan, Yellowrose -- your trip is criminally short of time in Edinburgh, which is a great city. Whether you ultimately enjoy Glasgow or not, Edinburgh is one of Europe's best cities.
And it's a small one -- you may want to check if there are extra taxes or fees for getting a car at Edinburgh airport because there are rental agencies just west of the financial district, which itself is just west of the Castle. US airport rental counters have large fees for renting from the airport, and you may be able to avoid similar fees if charged in the UK by renting in the city.
As for your love of whisky, you can fix your requirements at Royal Mile Whiskies in Edinburgh (on the Royal Mile, natch). Salesmen there are enthusiastic, to say the least.
And it's a small one -- you may want to check if there are extra taxes or fees for getting a car at Edinburgh airport because there are rental agencies just west of the financial district, which itself is just west of the Castle. US airport rental counters have large fees for renting from the airport, and you may be able to avoid similar fees if charged in the UK by renting in the city.
As for your love of whisky, you can fix your requirements at Royal Mile Whiskies in Edinburgh (on the Royal Mile, natch). Salesmen there are enthusiastic, to say the least.
Feb 23rd, 2009, 11:04 AM
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It looks great! Just as a note, in case (like me) you had never heard mention of it - the drive along the north coast of Scotland is beautiful! And Sango Bay has a gorgeous, sandy walking beach
I was just in Scotland for three weeks this summer, so if you click my name you can read the trip report. We did a similar trip, but it was Edinburgh - Grantown-on-Spey - Orkney - Lewis - Skye - Mull - Killin.
I was just in Scotland for three weeks this summer, so if you click my name you can read the trip report. We did a similar trip, but it was Edinburgh - Grantown-on-Spey - Orkney - Lewis - Skye - Mull - Killin.
Feb 23rd, 2009, 11:08 AM
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BigRuss - Sorry, wrong presumption - I live in WI and just love yellow roses I rented a car from the airport in Edinburgh and I don't remember paying any extra fees. I actually booked it on line from home. Had to pick up the GPS from downtown, but that was not a problem. Got a brand new Mercedes as a bonus as well when I really wanted a junker as I had never driven on the opposite side of the road before. Did not have any problems as I thought the Scottish drivers were extremely kind and considerate.
I rented a car from the airport in Edinburgh and I don't remember paying any extra fees. I actually booked it on line from home. Had to pick up the GPS from downtown, but that was not a problem. Got a brand new Mercedes as a bonus as well when I really wanted a junker as I had never driven on the opposite side of the road before. Did not have any problems as I thought the Scottish drivers were extremely kind and considerate.
