Hello from Dubrovnik!!! I made it
Oct 27th, 2006, 09:07 AM
#22
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Ok, boss isn't looking so I will try to continue on with my report, even though ckwald's report is going to be very hard to top, but hopefully this will give just another perspective.
The flight to Dubrovnik on Croatia Air was pretty uneventful other than the food service. Apparently they had misjudged on the amount of food per passenger ratio because the last four rows, me, got a cold dry pre-packed sandwich instead of the nice little hot snack that everyone else seemed to be enjoying. The lady sitting behind me was irrate and after whining and pretty much creating a huge fuss, was given a hot meal that someone had passed on. She wasn't even American!
My first glimpse of Dubrovnik was breathtaking. It was a tiny jewel in this stunningly beautiful azure blue sea. I was so glad for my window seat. We exited from the rear and front of the plane onto the tarmac where that warm Dalmation air greeted us. As promised Nerio was out front waiting for me. Very cool guy, who works for the govn't and rents his two apts on the side. He gave me a very graphic description of the war years and the impact it had on the areas surrounding Dubrovnik and the affect it had on his family, neighbors and friends. I so wanted to express my feelings to him, but there just weren't any words, or the "right" words I thought. I could not even begin to imagine the devastation and horror. What courageous and brave people is all I can say now. He told me that 3,000 bombs fell on Dubrovnik and that people from the surrounding areas all came to Dubrovnik. I thought they did that because of the walls that would protect them, but he said it was because they felt that they wouldn't bomb the town because of the monuments and historical treasures. But unfortunately they were wrong. He told me that they were without water and elecricity for three months. It's amazing how they all survived. And as ckwald said, you can tell the emotions and after effects of the war are just under the surface of the people. They are not unfriendly, but my impression was that they were somewhat guarded, or a little hesitant at first. Once you would get to know someone though, they would usually warm right up.
So, as everyone who has been there will tell you, that first real glimpse of Dubrovnik, is the most amazing sight. It was surreal really. After reading about it, looking at pictures, videos, anything I could get my hands on, nothing prepares you for this sight. Nerio parked his car just outside the Ploce Gate and helped me haul "Big Boy" to the apt. The apt. was one short flight of stone steps up from Gundulic Square -- http://www.dubrovnik-online.com/apartments_nerio/ The apt. is very basic, one good size room with bed, table/chairs, wardrobe, tv. and very comfortable large bed with a fluffy duvet and really large, soft pillows. Across the entry hall from that room is a little kitchen nook with fridge, two stove top burners, sink and the basics like, salt, pepper, olive oil, sugar, etc. and lots of kitchenware. Next to the kitchen nook was the bathroom, which was the only negative really of the apt. It did not have good ventilation and had a not so great odor. He had a plug in deod. thingy, but it just masked the odor. Next time I will come armed with candles, my own plug in thingies and lots of spray. But... the whole apt. was spotlessly clean. For the money, I was very satisfied and any time the smelly bathroom started to bother me, I just leaned out my huge bedroom window which overlooked the Square and forgot all about it. Oh, forgot to mention, on the landing at the top of the stone steps leading into my apt. was a very handy and later, well used, laundry line. There is one apt. above that is larger and very nice and accessed by the entry hallway separating my bedroom from kitchen and bathroom. Luckily my neighbors, from NY, were very nice and we ended up hanging out together on occasion. As always it takes awhile to get the hang of the keys. One for the iron gate at the bottom of the stairs, one for the main door and one for my bedroom door. Why do they always seem to turn the opposite direction we are used to and you have to turn it around twice!! I'm sure it's just me, but I was always forgetting that and thinking I would be locked out at midnight, unable to find Nerio and having to spend the night in the Square. Although when I inquired of Nerio whether a solo woman needed to pay extra attention to certain areas, or in general be concerned for safety, he looked at me like, what?? He told me I could sleep in the square in skimpy clothes and no-one would bother me. He was right, not that I ever did that, lol. but I have never felt so safe in any place I have travelled. Is there any crime there???
The flight to Dubrovnik on Croatia Air was pretty uneventful other than the food service. Apparently they had misjudged on the amount of food per passenger ratio because the last four rows, me, got a cold dry pre-packed sandwich instead of the nice little hot snack that everyone else seemed to be enjoying. The lady sitting behind me was irrate and after whining and pretty much creating a huge fuss, was given a hot meal that someone had passed on. She wasn't even American!
My first glimpse of Dubrovnik was breathtaking. It was a tiny jewel in this stunningly beautiful azure blue sea. I was so glad for my window seat. We exited from the rear and front of the plane onto the tarmac where that warm Dalmation air greeted us. As promised Nerio was out front waiting for me. Very cool guy, who works for the govn't and rents his two apts on the side. He gave me a very graphic description of the war years and the impact it had on the areas surrounding Dubrovnik and the affect it had on his family, neighbors and friends. I so wanted to express my feelings to him, but there just weren't any words, or the "right" words I thought. I could not even begin to imagine the devastation and horror. What courageous and brave people is all I can say now. He told me that 3,000 bombs fell on Dubrovnik and that people from the surrounding areas all came to Dubrovnik. I thought they did that because of the walls that would protect them, but he said it was because they felt that they wouldn't bomb the town because of the monuments and historical treasures. But unfortunately they were wrong. He told me that they were without water and elecricity for three months. It's amazing how they all survived. And as ckwald said, you can tell the emotions and after effects of the war are just under the surface of the people. They are not unfriendly, but my impression was that they were somewhat guarded, or a little hesitant at first. Once you would get to know someone though, they would usually warm right up.
So, as everyone who has been there will tell you, that first real glimpse of Dubrovnik, is the most amazing sight. It was surreal really. After reading about it, looking at pictures, videos, anything I could get my hands on, nothing prepares you for this sight. Nerio parked his car just outside the Ploce Gate and helped me haul "Big Boy" to the apt. The apt. was one short flight of stone steps up from Gundulic Square -- http://www.dubrovnik-online.com/apartments_nerio/ The apt. is very basic, one good size room with bed, table/chairs, wardrobe, tv. and very comfortable large bed with a fluffy duvet and really large, soft pillows. Across the entry hall from that room is a little kitchen nook with fridge, two stove top burners, sink and the basics like, salt, pepper, olive oil, sugar, etc. and lots of kitchenware. Next to the kitchen nook was the bathroom, which was the only negative really of the apt. It did not have good ventilation and had a not so great odor. He had a plug in deod. thingy, but it just masked the odor. Next time I will come armed with candles, my own plug in thingies and lots of spray. But... the whole apt. was spotlessly clean. For the money, I was very satisfied and any time the smelly bathroom started to bother me, I just leaned out my huge bedroom window which overlooked the Square and forgot all about it. Oh, forgot to mention, on the landing at the top of the stone steps leading into my apt. was a very handy and later, well used, laundry line. There is one apt. above that is larger and very nice and accessed by the entry hallway separating my bedroom from kitchen and bathroom. Luckily my neighbors, from NY, were very nice and we ended up hanging out together on occasion. As always it takes awhile to get the hang of the keys. One for the iron gate at the bottom of the stairs, one for the main door and one for my bedroom door. Why do they always seem to turn the opposite direction we are used to and you have to turn it around twice!! I'm sure it's just me, but I was always forgetting that and thinking I would be locked out at midnight, unable to find Nerio and having to spend the night in the Square. Although when I inquired of Nerio whether a solo woman needed to pay extra attention to certain areas, or in general be concerned for safety, he looked at me like, what?? He told me I could sleep in the square in skimpy clothes and no-one would bother me. He was right, not that I ever did that, lol. but I have never felt so safe in any place I have travelled. Is there any crime there???
Oct 27th, 2006, 09:48 AM
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After unpacking and getting somewhat settled in, I walked just a few doors down from my apt. to the ATM for kunas and then just across the Square to the supermarket and bought a few staples for the apt. I then set out for the big fountain at the Pile Gate where I was meeting fellow Fodorite, Jeff. We saw each other and immediately knew we were the right ones. Jeff is very tall, I am short, so we looked a little like Mutt and Jeff, ha, sorry Jeff, couldn't resist the pun, walking along on our way to find the Buza Bar.
OMG, what a spot. It was dusk and we could see the storm predicted coming in across the dark, choppy seas. With brooding Lokrum looming in the distance, it was seriously like something out of a movie. After a glass of wine, and getting to know each other better, we set off to dinner. Jeff took me to a place on the harbor, just around the corner from the Rector's Palace. It was still warm and had not started raining yet, so we sat outside under the colorful umbrellas. After reading for months about the calamari, of course that was my first choice. They brought it to us in a bucket, which at first glance did not seem like it would be enough for the two of us. HA! Indeed it was, we both agreed as we rolled out of there. What a great introduction to Dubvronik ... Buza Bar, scrumptious calamari and meeting Jeff. Doesn't get much better than that! Slept very well that night.
OMG, what a spot. It was dusk and we could see the storm predicted coming in across the dark, choppy seas. With brooding Lokrum looming in the distance, it was seriously like something out of a movie. After a glass of wine, and getting to know each other better, we set off to dinner. Jeff took me to a place on the harbor, just around the corner from the Rector's Palace. It was still warm and had not started raining yet, so we sat outside under the colorful umbrellas. After reading for months about the calamari, of course that was my first choice. They brought it to us in a bucket, which at first glance did not seem like it would be enough for the two of us. HA! Indeed it was, we both agreed as we rolled out of there. What a great introduction to Dubvronik ... Buza Bar, scrumptious calamari and meeting Jeff. Doesn't get much better than that! Slept very well that night.
Oct 27th, 2006, 11:15 AM
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Jeff had rented a car and was driving to Montenegro and very kindly asked me to join him. As tempting as that was, I was really just looking forward to relaxing a little and just decompressing, which is exactly what I did. After a good nights sleep, I woke up to the sounds of the farmers market below my window being set up. It was time for doing a little laundry, which I hung from my little clothes line - it was warm, but the skies were threatening and the breeze was really picking up. Good for drying clothes, not so good for the hairdo. I had a really yummy breakfast, mushroom omelet crusty bread and the most delicious fresh squeezed orange juice at a place recommended by Jeff, which is right on the Strandum close to the Ploce Gate and clock Tower - if you are facing the Tower, it is on the left. It is a very good spot to watch the local people on their way to work? and children maybe off to school. It's always interesting to compare the school kids in different countries, how they dress, interact with each other, etc. This trip I was able to make comparisons between Parisians, Croats and Romans. Parisians are quieter, more sophisticated and very well dressed. Croat kids are not as well dressed, no designer jeans and shoes here, but are animated and are very beautiful. Roman kids, well, they are loud, great looking outfits and are so exuberant. Interesting.
So, my mission now was to book my Montenegro tour, find out about phone cards and just stroll and take in the sights, sounds and smells of Dubrovnik. Oh and maybe find some room spray for stinky bathroom. Found the TI on the Strandum, so armed with maps, bus/ferry and boat schedules, I was off. Ran into my seatmates from the plane who were with a big tour group, so we all said hi, compared notes and I was on my way. One thing I was noticing and continued to observe the rest of the week, was how everyone seemed to be so happy. Everyone seemed to be laughing or had a smile on their face. I wandered down the narrow little streets, peeking in windows, and into little doorways. Two little kitties seemed to have joined me for my morning stroll. It had started raining and there was gusts of wind, pretty strong, which was a little annoying, but it was still warm, so I kept going. The daily theme is about 10 am the tour groups and cruise ships arrived and the town was pretty crowded until about 3 pm. After that the town seemed to return to it's quiet laid back self.
As Nerio had highly recommeneded the restaurant right below my apartment, Buffet Kamenice, I stopped there for lunch. I had my first octopus salad. I had no idea what to expect, but being the foodie I am, I wanted to experience as much of the local delicacies as I could. I was not disappointed. It was composed of tiny little pieces of very fresh and very tender octopus, ripe tomatoes and red onions in a vinegarette. It was as fresh as the sea. Now I am usually a red wine person, but I really preferred the white wine in Croatia. In particular I enjoyed the Grasevina. It is light, fruity and very delicate - perfect for sipping on a warm day. The wind was picking up and it was much cooler so I popped back to the apt. to change into something a little warmer, pick up my passport (needed to purchase tour tickets at Atlas). After exploring a little outside the Pile Gate and buying my tour ticket, and wandering around, just "being" I found myself back at the old harbor and decided to have a drink at Poklisar and watch the activities at the Harbor.
There are booths set up here where you can purchase tickets to various islands and also the boat to Cavtat and Lokrum. You can also see all the huge cruise ships on the horizon. Having purchased a phone card for 50 kuna, I called home to reassure my 96 yr. Mom that her little girl was safe and sound and having the time of her life. Back to the apt. to get ready for dinner with Jeff and anxious to hear all about his adventures in Montenegro.
So, my mission now was to book my Montenegro tour, find out about phone cards and just stroll and take in the sights, sounds and smells of Dubrovnik. Oh and maybe find some room spray for stinky bathroom. Found the TI on the Strandum, so armed with maps, bus/ferry and boat schedules, I was off. Ran into my seatmates from the plane who were with a big tour group, so we all said hi, compared notes and I was on my way. One thing I was noticing and continued to observe the rest of the week, was how everyone seemed to be so happy. Everyone seemed to be laughing or had a smile on their face. I wandered down the narrow little streets, peeking in windows, and into little doorways. Two little kitties seemed to have joined me for my morning stroll. It had started raining and there was gusts of wind, pretty strong, which was a little annoying, but it was still warm, so I kept going. The daily theme is about 10 am the tour groups and cruise ships arrived and the town was pretty crowded until about 3 pm. After that the town seemed to return to it's quiet laid back self.
As Nerio had highly recommeneded the restaurant right below my apartment, Buffet Kamenice, I stopped there for lunch. I had my first octopus salad. I had no idea what to expect, but being the foodie I am, I wanted to experience as much of the local delicacies as I could. I was not disappointed. It was composed of tiny little pieces of very fresh and very tender octopus, ripe tomatoes and red onions in a vinegarette. It was as fresh as the sea. Now I am usually a red wine person, but I really preferred the white wine in Croatia. In particular I enjoyed the Grasevina. It is light, fruity and very delicate - perfect for sipping on a warm day. The wind was picking up and it was much cooler so I popped back to the apt. to change into something a little warmer, pick up my passport (needed to purchase tour tickets at Atlas). After exploring a little outside the Pile Gate and buying my tour ticket, and wandering around, just "being" I found myself back at the old harbor and decided to have a drink at Poklisar and watch the activities at the Harbor.
There are booths set up here where you can purchase tickets to various islands and also the boat to Cavtat and Lokrum. You can also see all the huge cruise ships on the horizon. Having purchased a phone card for 50 kuna, I called home to reassure my 96 yr. Mom that her little girl was safe and sound and having the time of her life. Back to the apt. to get ready for dinner with Jeff and anxious to hear all about his adventures in Montenegro.
Oct 27th, 2006, 01:36 PM
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I'm glad you are enjoying walking along with me!! I think the reason all of us who have been there can relate is because it's not a big place and we have all walked those same streets, eaten in those same restaurants and admired the same breathtaking scenery.
I'll try to not give you a day by day description of my week in Dubrovnik as I don't want to bore you all to tears and I know after the Diva trip, this is not nearly as interesting or entertaining, but it's hard to sum it up in just a few words, but I will do my best.
I'll try to not give you a day by day description of my week in Dubrovnik as I don't want to bore you all to tears and I know after the Diva trip, this is not nearly as interesting or entertaining, but it's hard to sum it up in just a few words, but I will do my best.
Oct 27th, 2006, 03:27 PM
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Picked up a bottle of Grasevina for the apt. and had a glass while relaxing and looking out my window. I did a little sketching of the Square and played my music. Jeff was meeting me at the fountain in my Square before dinner, so I kept checking out the window. It was getting late and no Jeff, so I accepted a dinner invitation from my upstairs neighbors. Just as we were walking across the Square I hear my name and there is Jeff. So I thanked my neighbors for the invite and Jeff and I walked back to my apt. so I could show him my digs. Afterwards we went up to his place so he could change for dinner. His apt/hotel was very nice. Up lots of stairs on the other side of the Strandum, but very well decorated, nice bathroom with a tub! We went to Marco Polo for dinner, which is just off my Square. It was an absolutely delicious meal. We shared a plate of Dalmation proscuitto and olives. I thought Italian proscuitto was the best, but I have to say, I now prefer the Croatian version. We were laughing about the difference in my trip this year compared to last with the Divas and I was telling him about how every time we would eat dinner, one of them would complain about not having butter for the bread and they would call the waiter over and would ask for it in a loud voice. Just about then, our waiter came over with a little plate of butter. Jeff and I were trying to hold back our laughter. I wonder if I just got a little loud telling him the story, or if the waiter had been eavsdropping. We then share the seafood platter, which consisted of two whole fish, 4 pieces of calamari, huge whole shrimp and mussels, all grilled with a delicious olive oil sauce and of course, lots of bread for dipping. It truly was scrumtious. We shared 1/2 ltr. of white wine. The waiter kindly took our pictures and then gave us two little glasses of grappa and pear brandy, which is just to die for. At first it was a little strong, but after the second or third sip, well, what can I say.... I now had a new mission, to find some of that pear brandy. Dinner and wine - 173kuna. So, reluctantly we called it an evening. Jeff walked me back to my apt. We said our goodnights, goodbyes, hugs and he was off - leaving in the morning for Zagreb and then home. It was a real pleasure meeting and spending time with Jeff. A true gentleman and now, hopefully a friend.
Oct 27th, 2006, 03:37 PM
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wow, dubrovnik sounds so wonderful. I was all set to going to Austria next year, now, I'm thinking that maybe I should switch to Croatia before it gets too too crowded with tourists.
I think I'll go to Borders tonight and buy a good on Croatia.
I think I'll go to Borders tonight and buy a good on Croatia.
Oct 30th, 2006, 07:46 AM
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A really good book on Dubrovnik and the one I took with me (and left at the apt for future trips and and for other tourists to use) is http://www.amazon.com/Visible-Cities...F8&s=books
It was great for self-guided walking tours of the town.
I will try to finish up the Dubrovnik past of this report today, depending on my work load.
It was great for self-guided walking tours of the town.
I will try to finish up the Dubrovnik past of this report today, depending on my work load.
Oct 30th, 2006, 11:36 AM
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Barb,
Thanks for the tip on the guidebook. I had seen that book on Dubrovnik on Amazon, but wasn't sure if it was really good since my local Borders didn't have it.
I'll order it now....still trying to decide...Austria and Prague or Dubrovnik.
Thanks for the tip on the guidebook. I had seen that book on Dubrovnik on Amazon, but wasn't sure if it was really good since my local Borders didn't have it.
I'll order it now....still trying to decide...Austria and Prague or Dubrovnik.
Oct 30th, 2006, 02:01 PM
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Well obviously I am a little prejudiced because I love Dubrovnik so much, but I have never been to Austria or Prague. I found traveling to Croatia, solo, to be quite easy. Also, remember to travel light. I need to take my own advice on that one.
10/6 - Montenegro Tour: A little confusion at the pick up point just outside the Pile Gate. Apparently there was a couple of different buses doing the Blue Tour, still not sure how that worked, but I did manage to get onto the right bus, which was about 3/4 full. I had the two seats to myself, which was great. After the cool weather of the day before, and because we were starting out pretty early 7:30, I wore black long pants, short sleeve shirt, with a tank under and my jean jacket with a nice silk scarf. I opted to wear my money belt because I had to take my passport. It turned out to be a beautiful, sunny, hot!! day, so the jacket was left on the bus most of the day. Crossing the Montenegro border was very easy, the border guard boarded the bus and just eyeballed everyone's passport, not looking at them individually. The tour guide was a young woman who spoke to us in English and German as it was about half and half, English/German on the bus. She was very knowledgable and gave us a good history lesson, pointing out all the very interesting historical sights, along with everyday things. We learned that the average mo. wage there is 200 E, the well-to-do earn 300 E and pensioners 100 E and lots of people live on 150 E mo and do not live in very good conditions. Although I have to say, I did not see any real signs of horrible poverty like in some other countries I've been to - i.e. Mexico. Our first stop was Perast where we took a little boat to Our Lady of the Rock, a little church on a very picturesque Island in the Bay of Kotor. Such a lovely boat ride past another tiny island that looked like it was right out of a painting. Took tons of pictures for future paintings. The Lady of the Rock church was so beautiful. Tiny, but so wonderful. We then stopped at Kotor Town. The cathedral is certainly worth seeing. The town itself is small with tiny winding Medieval streets. Then our next stop was Sveti Stefan, which was once a fishing village and now is a very high-end resort, where apparently lots of celebs have stayed, including Prince Charles and Lady Di for part of their honeymoon. As part of the tour, we had lunch here. It was actually pretty good. A girl sitting at my table was from Calgary - another Canadian! She had been backpacking all over Eastern Europe for 3 months. She had made no reservations anywhere and was just winging it. She had been to Albania, Macadonia, to name just a few. She's actually travelled all over the world, Africa, Asia, S. American and all solo. I certainly admire her. Our last stop of the day was Budva. I have to admit, I was a little touristed out, so when I spotted a beautiful sandy beach with a nice cafe with umbrellas right on the sand, I snuck away from the group and ordered a glass of wine - it was one kuna! that's like almost free, ha. It was heavenly to sit there and relax. A few others in the group apparently had the same idea, because I saw about 5-6 of them "sneak" in, look around and sit down. It was a nice reprieve I must say. Did I feel guilty for not "doing" Budva? Nope.
The Bay of Kotor is beyond beautiful. Hillsides going right into the gorgeous bay. Little towns with at least one steeple huddled at the bottom of the hills. A long, but very rewarding day.
Because I was a tad tired, I decided to eat at Kamice again. Thought I better try some more calamari just see to see if it would top the last place. It was just as delish, if not better. After a glass of wine, I decided to try communicating with the waiter in Italian to see if I got different service than trying to speak Croatian, which I don't, lol. Well, hello... I got wonderful service and it was amazing to see how differently I was treated. I think he really thought I was Italian! A couple of guys sitting across from me said buona sera, ha, and then I told them I was actually not Italian, gee - I don't really speak Italian either, except for the Pimsleur tapes,ha. Anyway, they were great and we struck up a conversation. They asked if I had been to the Troubedor yet. It's a jazz bar just around the corner from my Square. When I told them no, they invited me to join them. We had front row chairs. It was a warm evening, with a bright full moon shining down on us. The jazz was very good, and the musicians so entertaining. The bass player looked just like Picasso with his striped t-shirt. What a fun and truly magican evening. While I'm lying in bed, I could still hear them playing. The warm breeze is playing with my chiffon curtains and I was feeling so at peace with myself.
10/6 - Montenegro Tour: A little confusion at the pick up point just outside the Pile Gate. Apparently there was a couple of different buses doing the Blue Tour, still not sure how that worked, but I did manage to get onto the right bus, which was about 3/4 full. I had the two seats to myself, which was great. After the cool weather of the day before, and because we were starting out pretty early 7:30, I wore black long pants, short sleeve shirt, with a tank under and my jean jacket with a nice silk scarf. I opted to wear my money belt because I had to take my passport. It turned out to be a beautiful, sunny, hot!! day, so the jacket was left on the bus most of the day. Crossing the Montenegro border was very easy, the border guard boarded the bus and just eyeballed everyone's passport, not looking at them individually. The tour guide was a young woman who spoke to us in English and German as it was about half and half, English/German on the bus. She was very knowledgable and gave us a good history lesson, pointing out all the very interesting historical sights, along with everyday things. We learned that the average mo. wage there is 200 E, the well-to-do earn 300 E and pensioners 100 E and lots of people live on 150 E mo and do not live in very good conditions. Although I have to say, I did not see any real signs of horrible poverty like in some other countries I've been to - i.e. Mexico. Our first stop was Perast where we took a little boat to Our Lady of the Rock, a little church on a very picturesque Island in the Bay of Kotor. Such a lovely boat ride past another tiny island that looked like it was right out of a painting. Took tons of pictures for future paintings. The Lady of the Rock church was so beautiful. Tiny, but so wonderful. We then stopped at Kotor Town. The cathedral is certainly worth seeing. The town itself is small with tiny winding Medieval streets. Then our next stop was Sveti Stefan, which was once a fishing village and now is a very high-end resort, where apparently lots of celebs have stayed, including Prince Charles and Lady Di for part of their honeymoon. As part of the tour, we had lunch here. It was actually pretty good. A girl sitting at my table was from Calgary - another Canadian! She had been backpacking all over Eastern Europe for 3 months. She had made no reservations anywhere and was just winging it. She had been to Albania, Macadonia, to name just a few. She's actually travelled all over the world, Africa, Asia, S. American and all solo. I certainly admire her. Our last stop of the day was Budva. I have to admit, I was a little touristed out, so when I spotted a beautiful sandy beach with a nice cafe with umbrellas right on the sand, I snuck away from the group and ordered a glass of wine - it was one kuna! that's like almost free, ha. It was heavenly to sit there and relax. A few others in the group apparently had the same idea, because I saw about 5-6 of them "sneak" in, look around and sit down. It was a nice reprieve I must say. Did I feel guilty for not "doing" Budva? Nope.
The Bay of Kotor is beyond beautiful. Hillsides going right into the gorgeous bay. Little towns with at least one steeple huddled at the bottom of the hills. A long, but very rewarding day.
Because I was a tad tired, I decided to eat at Kamice again. Thought I better try some more calamari just see to see if it would top the last place. It was just as delish, if not better. After a glass of wine, I decided to try communicating with the waiter in Italian to see if I got different service than trying to speak Croatian, which I don't, lol. Well, hello... I got wonderful service and it was amazing to see how differently I was treated. I think he really thought I was Italian! A couple of guys sitting across from me said buona sera, ha, and then I told them I was actually not Italian, gee - I don't really speak Italian either, except for the Pimsleur tapes,ha. Anyway, they were great and we struck up a conversation. They asked if I had been to the Troubedor yet. It's a jazz bar just around the corner from my Square. When I told them no, they invited me to join them. We had front row chairs. It was a warm evening, with a bright full moon shining down on us. The jazz was very good, and the musicians so entertaining. The bass player looked just like Picasso with his striped t-shirt. What a fun and truly magican evening. While I'm lying in bed, I could still hear them playing. The warm breeze is playing with my chiffon curtains and I was feeling so at peace with myself.
Oct 31st, 2006, 11:55 AM
#34
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10/7 -- Got up early to do the wall walk before it got too hot and the cruise ship hordes arrived. I took the Ploce Gate entrance to the wall, as advised by Nerio as there are much fewer stairs up to the top. The weather was just about perfect, warm, nice breeze and nobody up there, yet. As described by many before me, the views from up there are beyond words. The red tile rooftops interspersed with the brown old tiles of roofs still intact after all these years. Peering down into tiny backyards and little gardens gave me a glimpse into the lives of the people living there. I took many photos, hoping I would not run out of room on my card before I got all the way around the wall. Note to self, go to the Internet place and download onto a disk. I just took my time, taking deep breaths, loving every moment of being up there. I did eventually meet lots of interesting people along the way. One couple on their honeymoon who commented that Dubrovnik was their favorite place of their trip, which included the Greek Islands! I decided that I would do this walk every morning. Well I didn't, but it was a good idea.
Coming down off the wall, I stopped into a little art gallery where I bought a beautiful monoprint of Strandun. Great little gallery.
The farmers market was still going strong, so I bought some dried figs, tomatoes, cucumbers and olives. Then to Kunzum market where I bought bread, salami,and local cheese called Pas-sir. It was a little pricey at 24.12 kuna for .134 kg, but so worth it. So, lunch was in my apt. sitting at my big window, where the view is superb. It just gets better and better each day. this place is just magical. I noticed that the pidgeons were on every rooftop, on every ledge and just sitting everywhere. Seemed a little strange as I had never noticed this before. Just then this guy comes out and starts throwing some kind of grain out onto the ground and the thousands of pidgeons start flying around and around, it is quite a sight and quite frankly, a little creepy to me- remember "The Birds". Now I know why I kept finding tiny, fluffy bird feathers in my room. Apparently this is an everyday event. So, for dessert I decided my dried figs would be perfect. I am SO glad I decided to cut into them instead of just popping one into my mouth. When I cut one open, it was filled with tiny little white worms!! It really grossed me out so I threw the whole bag out. I wonder how many people bought figs from that woman and did not cut them open first. Hopefully it was just a random fig, but somehow I doubt it.
The rest of the afternoon I did some of the walks from the book "Dubrovnik - A City Guide". I didn't actually find some of the places listed, but it was a very relaxing way to spend the afternoon. For dinner I just went downstairs and had mussel risotto, which was ok, not great. Came back to the apt. and did a little painting. Ended up going back to the Troubedor and met up with a couple from the Montenegro tour who live just outside of London. Well, another great evening of jazz - even bought their CD. It certainly brings back all the wonderful memories of that place whenever I listen to it now.
10/8/06 -- Today was Independence Day and an absolutely grand beautiful day, except for the wind. One of the umbrellas from the farmers market took off flying around the corner towards the Rector's Palace. I heard a scream and had visions of it impaling some unsuspecting tourtist. A few seconds later around the corner it came with three men carrying it. All the umbrellas were immediately taken down. Things were flying around, chairs were knocked over and the waiters down below me were scurrying around to take down their umbrellas and secure the tables and chairs.
Hearing there was a band coming to play to help celebrate Independence Day just outside of St. Blaise, I was off. The music was lively and just great. I found myself thinking that I could not remember the last time I felt just so darn happy. Before I knew it there were tears in my eyes, pure joy. Luckily I had on sunglasses, although I could have blamed the tears on the wind. The rest of the morning was just "hanging out", strolling and doing a little shopping. Lunch was at Poklisar, but the wind was so strong, I could even feel the spray of water from the harbor. The gusts of wind were knocking things over, things flying through the air, people screaming and a flier from one of the boat kiosks flew and landed right on my chest!! At that point, a little concerned that I could be seriously injured by flying debris, I decided to move my lunch under cover. You guessed it calamari! The rest of the "lazy" day was spent reading, listening to my new CD and writing in my journal. The wind did die down by that evening, so after a little nap - I told you it was a lazy day - I went to Dundo Maroje, for dinner. OMG was it outstanding. I had the mixed grill as I was craving a little reprieve from seafood - it was certainly a reprieve - grilled, beef, pork, chicken and their own spicy sausage. On the side was grilled pototoes and a spicy eggplant dish. With a nice little bottle of Merlot - 136 kuna. The couple sitting next to me struck up a conversation. They were from S. Franscico. He worked for one of the airlines and they travelled a lot, all over the world, first class, on standby. They never made any reservations and were SO interesting and fun to talk to. We laughed, shared travel stories and ordered more wine, ha. They were driving up to Mostar the next day, but we agreed to meet the next night for dinner and the Troubedor. Highly recommend this restaurant, which is tucked away in a tiny street right off the Strandun not far from the Ploce Gate on the steep side of the street. Stopped on my way back to the apt. to call my sister and mother at the appointed time. As we were talking the church bells rang. They said they felt like they were right there with me. My sister said she had never heard me sound so happy on a trip before. I told her this had been the most perfect holiday ever and that I had to keep pinching myself to see if I was just dreaming this whole thing. So at nearly 11:00, with the streets completely deserted, I have never felt so safe and completely relaxed - even at home! No worries about pickpockets, someone stealing my purse, or being run over by a vespa, or choking on exhaust fumes. I was starting to have some concerns about how Rome would feel after Dubrovnik. As I settled into bed, I could hear "Hit the Road Jack" from the Troubedor.
Coming down off the wall, I stopped into a little art gallery where I bought a beautiful monoprint of Strandun. Great little gallery.
The farmers market was still going strong, so I bought some dried figs, tomatoes, cucumbers and olives. Then to Kunzum market where I bought bread, salami,and local cheese called Pas-sir. It was a little pricey at 24.12 kuna for .134 kg, but so worth it. So, lunch was in my apt. sitting at my big window, where the view is superb. It just gets better and better each day. this place is just magical. I noticed that the pidgeons were on every rooftop, on every ledge and just sitting everywhere. Seemed a little strange as I had never noticed this before. Just then this guy comes out and starts throwing some kind of grain out onto the ground and the thousands of pidgeons start flying around and around, it is quite a sight and quite frankly, a little creepy to me- remember "The Birds". Now I know why I kept finding tiny, fluffy bird feathers in my room. Apparently this is an everyday event. So, for dessert I decided my dried figs would be perfect. I am SO glad I decided to cut into them instead of just popping one into my mouth. When I cut one open, it was filled with tiny little white worms!! It really grossed me out so I threw the whole bag out. I wonder how many people bought figs from that woman and did not cut them open first. Hopefully it was just a random fig, but somehow I doubt it.
The rest of the afternoon I did some of the walks from the book "Dubrovnik - A City Guide". I didn't actually find some of the places listed, but it was a very relaxing way to spend the afternoon. For dinner I just went downstairs and had mussel risotto, which was ok, not great. Came back to the apt. and did a little painting. Ended up going back to the Troubedor and met up with a couple from the Montenegro tour who live just outside of London. Well, another great evening of jazz - even bought their CD. It certainly brings back all the wonderful memories of that place whenever I listen to it now.
10/8/06 -- Today was Independence Day and an absolutely grand beautiful day, except for the wind. One of the umbrellas from the farmers market took off flying around the corner towards the Rector's Palace. I heard a scream and had visions of it impaling some unsuspecting tourtist. A few seconds later around the corner it came with three men carrying it. All the umbrellas were immediately taken down. Things were flying around, chairs were knocked over and the waiters down below me were scurrying around to take down their umbrellas and secure the tables and chairs.
Hearing there was a band coming to play to help celebrate Independence Day just outside of St. Blaise, I was off. The music was lively and just great. I found myself thinking that I could not remember the last time I felt just so darn happy. Before I knew it there were tears in my eyes, pure joy. Luckily I had on sunglasses, although I could have blamed the tears on the wind. The rest of the morning was just "hanging out", strolling and doing a little shopping. Lunch was at Poklisar, but the wind was so strong, I could even feel the spray of water from the harbor. The gusts of wind were knocking things over, things flying through the air, people screaming and a flier from one of the boat kiosks flew and landed right on my chest!! At that point, a little concerned that I could be seriously injured by flying debris, I decided to move my lunch under cover. You guessed it calamari! The rest of the "lazy" day was spent reading, listening to my new CD and writing in my journal. The wind did die down by that evening, so after a little nap - I told you it was a lazy day - I went to Dundo Maroje, for dinner. OMG was it outstanding. I had the mixed grill as I was craving a little reprieve from seafood - it was certainly a reprieve - grilled, beef, pork, chicken and their own spicy sausage. On the side was grilled pototoes and a spicy eggplant dish. With a nice little bottle of Merlot - 136 kuna. The couple sitting next to me struck up a conversation. They were from S. Franscico. He worked for one of the airlines and they travelled a lot, all over the world, first class, on standby. They never made any reservations and were SO interesting and fun to talk to. We laughed, shared travel stories and ordered more wine, ha. They were driving up to Mostar the next day, but we agreed to meet the next night for dinner and the Troubedor. Highly recommend this restaurant, which is tucked away in a tiny street right off the Strandun not far from the Ploce Gate on the steep side of the street. Stopped on my way back to the apt. to call my sister and mother at the appointed time. As we were talking the church bells rang. They said they felt like they were right there with me. My sister said she had never heard me sound so happy on a trip before. I told her this had been the most perfect holiday ever and that I had to keep pinching myself to see if I was just dreaming this whole thing. So at nearly 11:00, with the streets completely deserted, I have never felt so safe and completely relaxed - even at home! No worries about pickpockets, someone stealing my purse, or being run over by a vespa, or choking on exhaust fumes. I was starting to have some concerns about how Rome would feel after Dubrovnik. As I settled into bed, I could hear "Hit the Road Jack" from the Troubedor.
Oct 31st, 2006, 04:35 PM
#36
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Barb,
I'm so enjoying reading your report! We leave on Friday....finally! I can't wait. We have been so busy with our relocation (we recently moved to a new state) that I have hardly had time to think about our vacation and now its almost upon us. Your report is putting me in the vacation spirit, and I love hearing about Croatia!
Tracy
I'm so enjoying reading your report! We leave on Friday....finally! I can't wait. We have been so busy with our relocation (we recently moved to a new state) that I have hardly had time to think about our vacation and now its almost upon us. Your report is putting me in the vacation spirit, and I love hearing about Croatia!
Tracy
Oct 31st, 2006, 08:40 PM
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Barb.. don't stop! we're still with you.. and lovin every minute of it. when you said 'completely relaxed'.. yup! that summed up my feelings about Dubrovnik also. I'm so glad you enjoyed it so much.
Nov 1st, 2006, 01:34 AM
#40
You haven't lost me, I've just found you. Fascinating report, and it sounds like traveling solo was much less "dramatic" than your previous group experience.
My question is about Paris. Glad you went back to les Fetes Galantes. When I walked past that restaurant last winter with my daughter I glanced inside and it appeared that all the lingerie had been removed from the walls. Is that so? Did you find out why?
My question is about Paris. Glad you went back to les Fetes Galantes. When I walked past that restaurant last winter with my daughter I glanced inside and it appeared that all the lingerie had been removed from the walls. Is that so? Did you find out why?
